PATNA: RETURN TO INDIA - chilled beer and rickshaws but no Rolling Stones, 1976

[After the emotional farewell to Nepal, Nikki and I flew to Patna en route to Delhi.  A chilled beer, a rickshaw ride and pleasant people in Patna lulled us into a false sense of holiday.  We laughed at a mad American searching for the Rolling Stones and a cautionary tale that Swaggies had been left stranded in Delhi without tickets home ...]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Soon left the hills and below was the Plain of India.  Air hostess in sari said, 'Namaste' as we boarded.  Given nice snack and free Carlsberg beer! (chilled!)
Landed at Patna.  Met up with driver of Encounter Overland - cheerful hot-tempered Aussie.
Nice middle-aged Indian man - well travelled, amusing and very polite treated us to coffee then put us on a rickshaw and told the driver to give us a tour of Patna and drop us off for lunch then back for next flight.

Lovely day - felt on holiday as jogged through wide streets lined with trees and attractive bungalows.  Strange to be in India with no Swaggy bus in sight!  Familiar sights of men in loincloths; millions of bicycles and rickshaws pouring across traffic lights and mad drivers again.

Stopped and talked to funny American guy who'd missed the plane to Kathmandu because they had lost his luggage.  He asked our driver if the Stones were playing tonight in Patna!  He couldn't bear the idea of New Year in such a place! 

Went to bank then dropped at incredibly posh hotel - had a coffee!  Man was complaining behind me because he got cabbage and not carrots, just the limit because this morning he got orange instead of tomato juice!  What a fuss!

Back to airport - plane to leave at 2.55 - didn't leave until 4.30!  Talked with Encounter guy - he'd heard of Greyhound [Asian Greyhound] people having no tickets waiting at Delhi post restante!  Airport stood us sweet tea and gritty butties!

Air India flew us out - Indian music, bigger plane, hostesses in saris.  Gave revolting mango juice.  Landed at Lucknow then off again to Delhi.  Tiny snack and coffee."

LAST SUNRISE IN KATHMANDU - goodbye to Swaggies, KC, backstreets and friendly puppy, 1976

KC, restaurant owner, Thamel, Kathmandu

[Last sunrise in Kathmandu - goodbye to last of the Swaggie friends and final breakfast at KC's before Nikki and I flew away from the snow-clad Himalayas.  Chrispin waved us off - he was heading off to do more travelling around India, so I took his large suitcase home and leant him my backpack and sleeping bag not thinking I would have need of them again for a while ... bad call as it turned out!]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Up very early because Heidi leaving at 6.  As she went I could lie and see the sunrise out of the door.  Lovely winter morning - dark clouds with orange-pink light seeping into sky behind.  Hils dark behind and trees in foreground full of the noise of birds.  Streets quiet for once but dogs already beginning to stir in hotel courtyard (big black one and little black puppy that looks like a baby bear and plays with my tatty jeans!)

Waved off Heidi, Pam and Mark - fresh cool air of early morning.  Met Chris and Nikki and went for breakfast at KC's - he was still asleep on the chairs!  OK and KC helped get us breakfast - fried eggs, toast and lovely milky KC coffee.  Back to hotel after KC wished us happy journey - amused when I said I'd see him in Scotland.  He has a saying that: Chinese food is best food, Japanese women best women, Nepalese dope best dope and Scotch whisky best whisky!

Taxi waiting for us.  Frances saw us off - Adrian still sick in bed.  Went to airport via narrow lanes - last glimpse of narrow streets inhabited by cows and dogs.  Our into fields then airport.  Chris organised us into right queues etc trying to cheer Nikki up.  Customs nosed around in cases - opened my souvenirs.  Body search - girl helped herself to coconuts and Nikki's cigs!  Walked out to small Nepalese plane - Chris waving us off from terrace.  From plane, Nikki noticed that he lit up cigarette (she was always trying to control his consumption).  Waved us off even when in the air. 

Circled over Kathmandu - saw terraced brown fields and houses for last time growing more distant - picked out the Boudhnath Stupa.  Great white range behind us, slightly clouded; then left Kathmandu Valley and on into smaller range of hills with roads winding through them."

LAST DAY IN KATHMANDU - goodbye bicycles, Freak Street, Yeti Travels, KC's! 1976

[The Thamel quarter of Kathmandu had become home and I was already growing nostalgic at the thought of leaving the place.  But the group were melting away and it was almost time for Nikki and I to make our way to Delhi to find the elusive return tickets.  One more day of cycling the backstreets of the city, mooching around Freak Street, drinking endless milky coffees - and of course a visit to KC's.

WEDNESDAY 29TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Di up really early - bus at 6.15.  Said a sleepy goodbye!  Said a second sleepy goodbye to Shirley a little later.
Morning - breakfast with Heidi at Shangri la - talked of education and interpreters!  Hired bicycles with Chris and Nikki and went to Yeti Travels - tickets to Delhi confirmed!  Signed away most of travellers' cheques!  Gave us sweet tea.  Chris's money come through too, so he treated us to coffee at the Ra Ra Restaurant!

Back on bikes - really good fun.  Lunch at Kathmandu Guest House with Heidi - had savoury pancake rolls.  Later set off on bikes again down narrow lanes - hair-raising ride avoiding cows, people, vehicles, gutters, porters with swinging poles of earth, dogs and babies!  No one gets out of the way - though we soon got the idea of ringing bells continuously!  No wonder Nepalese are addicted to bells and horns!

Went to Aunt Jane's (parallel with Freak Street) for their lunch.  Very small restaurant upstairs - very famous - perhaps first of the 'trendy' places to go.  In Freak Street plagued as usual by boys with Tibetan books and people offering hash.

On way to Yeti Travels again, nearly got knocked over at roundabout - one of many near collisions!  Great fun though.

Had coffee and apple crumble at KC's for last time - sob! sob!  After dark spent last of rupies on little presents eg Nepalese hats - shops are lovely at this time because still bustling with sounds and life and welcoming lights.  Know this narrow crossroads so well - on first night the bus got stuck there - quite nostalgic about leaving."

LIKE DURHAM MINERS' GALA - King's Birthday: parades, bands and cocky lads! Kathmandu 1976

[This amazing day which started with a burning sunrise in the Himalayan foothills and a packed trolley ride with dead chickens and excited kids on their way to the King's Birthday celebrations, continued in Kathmandu.  Its happy crowds, banners, noisy bands and side stalls reminded me of the annual Durham Miners' Gala - and it all took my mind off those blistered feet.  What better way to finish the national holiday than with a meal at KC's?!

Heidi, Sally, KC and Di at KC's on King's birthday (King and Queen in background!)

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Three

"We finally disgorged back in Kathmandu! 
Town by post office was almost deserted; no rickshaws to be seen.  So walked into centre - great crowds on public park and lining the streets - people selling chunks of fruit on pavements.  Processions of people, especially kids parading round field and then up New Street to Durbar Square.  We we couldn't get through until finished so wandered up New Street.

Like Miners' Gala Day [in Durham] - people pouring in and the sound of bands.  These bands consisted of small drums, cymbals, pipes and flutes and strange singing.  Lots of schools in uniform marched with banners - a few managed to swing arms in time, while some cocky lads followed and mimicked.  Other groups of Nepalese carried biers with greenery all over - couldn't see what sat underneath.

We rested blistered feet (me, Nikki and Chris) in Paras Hotel, by Nepal Bank, and had omelettes for lunch.  When emerged again, streets breaking up - went back via back streets to hotel.  Heidi and Di packing for Pokhara.  Finished rum.

After shower, went to KC's for their final meal.  Had lovely tomato soup and hamburger steak with salad and roti (ie potato).  Followed by night life! (rum and lemon)  KC in good form - bought me night life; offered me and Nikki job driving a hamburger stall!  Full of new ideas and plans for saunas, bakery etc.  Fred and Jan came in - Fred still not well enough for him to go trekking."

KING OF NEPAL'S BIRTHDAY - truck loads of screaming kids: 'Hello, bye-bye, Kathmandu!' 1976

[This turned out to be a mega day - it started with a spectacular sunrise over the Himalayas and then dropping down into the Kathmandu Valley we found ourselves swept along in celebrations for the King's Birthday.  My battered overlander's shoes were not keeping pace - I was picking up blisters as well as cheerful children along the way.]

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely walk down - soon became warmer.  Little lad pointed out jungle to left.  Another kid joined us waving a palm type leaf, dressed only in grubby shirt - asked my friend if this was a friend of his and he said no firmly!  His school began at 11 but he'd set off down because his school was going into Kathmandu for the King's Birthday.

At village we saw 2 truck loads of screaming kids set off shouting, "Hello, bye-bye, Kathmandu! Kathmandu!" Truck over-brimming with them!

Walked to Bhaktapur because minibus not there - it passed us just as we entered town!  My feet and Nikki's were blistered from loose shoes coming down hill, so hobbled painfully to nearest cay shop!  (They make it with boiled milk and water in the same pan like Indians).

Through Bhaktapur - passed dead animals, potter spinning big stone wheel with a long stick.  Bought little cake things.

Caught trolley bus - whole of Nepal seemed to dash for door as soon as opened - nearly trampled in the rush!  Then there was loads of time before it left and everyone had a place so it was futile to begin with!  Don't think there's a word 'queue' in Nepalese!  Imagine the indignant looks and tutting that would receive such enthusiasm in 'respectable' Britain!

As bus progressed more and more piled on until it was almost impossible to ever get off!  Chris was complaining about rubbing shoulders with a frenchman and bottoms with a Nepalese!  He and Mark were swinging from the bars.  Pam was worried about the kid next to her with a plaster on his face in case he had chicken pox and also about the dead chicken in his mother's string bag! 

(A mother was feeding her baby on the bus even after the baby had fallen asleep!)"

SUNRISE OVER EVEREST - burning snow and sugar in the porridge, 1976

[Not even the discomfort of a cold night or sugar in the porridge could detract from the awe-inspiring sight of the sun rising over Everest and the Himalayas - and the sound of school girls singing through the dark.  Not surprisingly, this magical memory has stayed with me and influenced a scene in my novel OVERLANDERS.]

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Banging on door at 6.  No one felt like waking - pretty cold because only a few blankets and no bag. 

Staggered out and up very steep hill again (Nagarkot about 6,000ft)  View was breathtaking - mist rising out of valley - mysterious blue ridges, then dark blue ranges of the Himalayas, nearer ones snow-capped, waiting for sun to rise - great feeling of expectancy.  Gradually deep pink light began to seep into valley and catch the peaks - snow really burning in dawn light.  Then sun rose to the left of them all - brilliant orange light.  Saw Everest's blue peak clearly - little orange cloud above it.
Group of girls chanting down the road - lovely sound.

Down hill again for breakfast.  They put sugar in the porridge and the coffee!  Not my lucky day!

Set off 8.30 down to Karapati again - met a little guide (in his pyjamas!) - thought Pam woul know an Aussie girl that he had the passport photo of, because she came from Oz!  He pattered along beside me - english quite good, 11 years old.  I gave him my passport photo (spare copy) and wrote my address for him - he looked at picture and said "very good" with a grin!"









Girls singing in the sunrise, Nagarkot, 1976

EVEREST COTTAGE - Tibetan bread, roaring fire and Eagles (Californian variety!) NAGARKOT 1976

[The strenuous puffing and panting of unfit overlanders that morning was rewarded with specacular views of the Himalayan range and Everest hidden in cloud that my Kodak Instamatic did not do justice to!  Magic surreal moment was after dark sitting by cosy fire in candlelight, eating simple meal to the strains of The Eagles, at the Everest Cottage ...]

MONDAY 27TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely view over valley and jungle to the right.  Cay stop - sat on terrace step in sun.  Reached top at about 4.  Two vans up there at viewpoint - fantastic panorama of Himalayas - from Annapurna to beyond Everest (semi-circle).

Went for coffee at nearby coffee house - all really thirsty.  Then rushed out to see sunset over mountains -lovely pink light and gorgeous blazing orange behind clouds over Kathmandu Valley with dark trees silhouetted on hill in front.

Then rushed around trying to find somewhere to sleep - eventually went down very steep hill to "Everest Cottage" - opened it up for us because no one else there.  Lit a big fire in large room with hight matted ceiling.  Candlelight in all rooms - sat round fire relaxing.

Then had Nepalese meal - plain but good fare - rice, little omelette, veg curry and dhal soup.  Finished with Tibetan bread (like stodgy pancake).  Sat round fire drinking Chris's Country Liquor.  They put on tape - Eagles.

In room with Chris and Nikki (Mark and Pam other side of partition) - wall to wall bed and nothing else!  Mouse running above our heads in the roof!"