Welcome from Jan

Hi there!
This blog is for those who love both books and travel. I'm starting by travelling back in time to the 1970s and the overland trail to India which I took as an 18 year old. Have a look at my daily diary entries and photos. Some of these places are impossible to visit at the moment, but I can give you a flavour of what they were like in the golden age of the hippy trail.

The experience has inspired my new mystery novel, THE VANISHING OF RUTH, which is out now as an ebook. Find details and extracts at The Vanishing of Ruth

To buy: The Vanishing of Ruth

Also take a look at Facebook Page Overlanders for more memorabilia.
http://bit.ly/Overlanders

HELP ME FIND MY FELLOW PASSENGERS! TAKE A LOOK AT THE GROUP PHOTO (post on 30th November 2009) AND CHECK THE NAMES ON THIS LINK:
http://www.indiaoverland.biz/overland/passengers/sep26_76.html
Cheers, Jan.


Sunday 28 November 2010

SUN COMES OUT FOR VISIT TO VIRGIN MARY'S HOUSE, TURKEY 1976


View from Virgin Mary's last house
 THURSDAY 21ST OCTOBER, 1976 - PART TWO

'Back down to town; some of us had stuffed peppers, chips and tomatoes (Heidi, me, Adrian, Chris, Hans).

Nice town [Bergama] lots of food stalls and shops.  Quite clean.  Sun came out.  Scenery looked much better in the sun - blue sea and clear outline of sandy hills covered in olive trees.

Stopped at Izmir.  Soldier called Hassan attached himself and offered to find the Meaders' place [parents of school friend who were living there].  Not enough time, so gave up.  Met up with Mark, Paul and Julie.  Very modern and busy port.

Salcuk from Nightingale Mountain
Next stop was early evening at house of Virgin Mary up on Nightingale Mountain, outside of Salcuk.  Really peaceful and serene setting among terraced gardens and lots of trees, view out to sea, sun beginning to go down.  Lovely little chapel built on remains of house; sat inside for a while, attendant gave me free guide.'

Wednesday 24 November 2010

PERGAMON - TEETERING TEMPLES AND PHANTOM SNAIL PINCHERS, TURKEY 1976

THURSDAY 21ST OCTOBER, 1976 - PART ONE

'Went back in to Bergama and up hillside to old citadel of Pergamon.  Fantastic views of surrounding hills and plains and bird's eye view of Bergama.  Hills very rugged and unfertile; lots of olive trees and sheep wandering around with bells around necks.

Ponies grazing among ruins.  Ruins quite extensive (Greek ones - Roman further down towards the town).  Remains of aquaduct, old city walls, library (200,000 parchments originally before taken to Alexandra and lost in a fire).

Temple of Athena and very steep theatre dropping down hill - steepest in Turkey because of gradient of hill.  Hilarious American Tour - "Gee what a super picture of a fig tree" as they passed the remains of the steepest amphitheatre in Turkey; "does anybody want a bit of marble?" and handed some round.  One woman went into ecstasies over a snail and looked suspiciously at us, saying, "You're not going to take the snail away are you?"  I didn't think we looked particularly like phantom snail pinchers.  Perhaps she thought we were combing the old ruins of Turkey for that very reason ...

Tuesday 23 November 2010

ACROSS THE DARDANELLES TO TROY - AND MUDDY CAMPING, TURKEY, 1976

WEDNESDAY 20TH OCTOBER, 1976 - PART TWO


Paul with flowers in beard
 'Back to Eceabat where we got ferry across Dardanelles to Asia.  Sat in lounge, waiter came round with cay.  Rob trying to write diary again but men pestering him to buy jeans - offered 2000 lire!  Paul tried to sell his for 500L.

Next stop was Troy.  Went round ruins - about 9 different cities.  More impressive than expected - bits of city wall, rampart, theatre, pillars, storage jars etc.  Looked out across plain to Dardanelles and Gallipoli (?) in very far distance.  Looked around museum, various jars and pots and drinking goblets, as well as powder jars etc.  Some still had designs on - owls and little men.  No one quite sure which city was one of Homer - maybe 7th city.  Big wooden horse has been reconstructed by musuem.


Girls picking cotton in Western Turkey
 Continued along coast and inland a bit.  Rather boring scenery, mostly flat and muddy; more hilly countryside covered in olive trees.  Felt ill.

Stopped at Pergamon - walking across road, Neva was missed by car by about an inch!  Bought nuts and raisins.  Shirley had her shoes polished; little boy in full command, bashing brush on box with great flair when Shirley was to put other foot up.  Nearly missed bus.

Drove few miles out and camped on sandy muddy stretch near water (house was built on previous camping area!) at Plajevleri - bar a few metres away, road on other side of tents.  Dogs barking round all the time and village idiot blowing whistle and snooping round tents.'

Tuesday 14 September 2010

WINDY, DESOLATE MASS GRAVES OF ANZACS AT GALLIPOLI, TURKEY 1976

Lone Pine Memorial to Anzacs, at Gallipoli
WEDNESDAY 20TH OCTOBER, 1976  -  Part One

"Very windy again.  Grey sky and grey, green sea - dark when first got up.

Detour back to Anzac memorials.  Very quiet, cold and grey.  Wound up hill past Lone Pine memorial and others - gully of mass graves.  From top looked down on beaches of Gallipoli and ridges between them and the bluff.

Ridges and beaches of Gallipoli
Sinister war ships in the bay, just seen through the mist added an uncanny touch.  9 month siege, about 60,000 Allies died and more Turks - many from cholera, hepatitus, dysentry etc.  Stopped at Lone Pine - about 900 headstones and many more listed but never found.  Very sad place (quite a few Scots' names).

Monday 13 September 2010

THE VANISHING OF RUTH - NEW eBook Out Now!

My new novel, inspired by my travels on the overland trail in the 1970s is now out as an ebook.
Check my website for details: The Vanishing of Ruth

Friday 10 September 2010

HOT SOUP & COLD CAMPING BY THE SEA OF MARMARA - OVERLANDERS ON THE ROAD AGAIN, 1976

TUESDAY 19TH OCTOBER, 1976

Young cotton picker in Western Turkey
"Up early and raining.  Big clear out of Chinese laundry image!  Coffee at bar before left.  Boring drive back along road to Greek border. 

Became very cold during day.  Stopped again at small port, bought hot bread and honey.  Eventually turned off down coast and followed Sea of Marmara.

Eventually near Eceabat made camp.  Very windy and bitingly cold.  Pitched in dark beside a derelict wall (apparently people sometimes live in it!) Very near sea, very rough, could see ships' lights in the dark.

Had hot soup and stew.  Some of us walked (or rather were blown) into Eceabat - 2km - and had beer and cay at a quayside cafe.  No room indoors because all watching telly, so sat outside and froze!  (Chris, Nikki, me, Pam, Mark, Neva and Diana).  Walked back - very cold night."

Monday 23 August 2010

NIKKI SOLD FOR 20 CAMELS! FROM THE BAZAAR TO CAMP BAR, OVERLANDERS 1976

MONDAY 18TH OCTOBER, 1976

Bosphorus, Istanbul
Part Two:
"Made for a cay shop - (Chris, Nikki, Jan, me and Heidi).  Got lost in back streets, seemed to be cloth factories and shops, with streets teaming with cars and men bent double under loads of bails etc. Eventually found tiny cay shop in arcade - produced a few stools and bought cay and Turkish coffee - place seemed to serve all the shops in the area.

Kept buying all the savouries and sweets that were being sold at street corners - me and Jan the worst culprits!  Made for the bazaar.  Really funny time - blokes haggling for us 4 from Chris!  Nikki was offered 20 camels!  Quite expensive prices - lots of coats, material, jewellery, belts etc.

Found another cay shop!  Then made home in the rush hour with Chris and Nikki.  Everyone dashes for the buses, absolute chaos.  Eventually crammed in one - a fella called Salami told me where to get off.  Then had to waylay a No. 6 mini bus.  Everyone rushes into the street and people in mini buses grab them onto the buses.  Another bloke guided us on, shouting "Schnell, schnell!"

Went to B.P Camp to see if any mail.  Had meal in Camp restaurant - revolting meatballs (probably camp cat!) and cold spaghetti.  Tehran turned up.  Had to say goodbye - others eventually rescued me!
Went up to B.P Camp again because someone said I had a letter up there.  Me and Mark discovered Contiki were there and so stayed and drank with them.  Mostly dull, but driver's good fun - pretended he was barman - quite a laugh when annoyed people wanted drinks! 

Back to our bus and had a chat in back with Nikki and Chris."

Friday 20 August 2010

EUNUCHS, QUEEN VICTORIA, DIAMOND EGG CUPS - TOPKAPI PALACE, ISTANBUL 1976

MONDAY 18TH OCTOBER, 1976

Part One:
"Decided not enough people to go for fish super, so cancelled it.  Bus dropped us at Blue Mosque again.  Jan, me and Heidi, Bill and Shirley made for the Topkapi PalaceBegan to pour again.  Palace had lovely courtyards and gardens of trees which must be lovely in the sunshine.  All buildings fairly low lying, in pavilions.

First went to the kitchens - large chimneys.  Inside was all the Chinese pottery, some very early stuff, masses of it.  Really beautiful blue patterns, large bowls and coffee pots, mugs, urns etc.  Latter stuff green, pink and mixed colours; some very beautiful.  (Imagine using big china urn to pour the cordial in the bus!  Might have even more spills!)

Next thing we peered into was the Sultan's library, can't see inside, but saw low couches and book stand.  Then saw the magnificent jewellery.  Incredible jewel studded weapons - quivers, daggers, pistols etc.  Lavish pendants, bags.  Section with utensils such as diamond studded egg cups, jade carved bowls.  The next section was mainly emeralds, including the biggest emerald in the world.  Various jewel studded thrones - looked rather uncomfortable!  Then there were some fantastic diamonds, including the spoon mason's diamond - really massive.  Gold candlesticks with 6666 diamonds in them - prayers of the Koran.

There was also a house ful of sacred emblems, such as coffers for Mohammed's mantle and little casks with his tooth and hairs from beard etc.  Sacred weapons and padlocks from some gate.  We then went off and bought some biscuits before the harem guided tour was due.  Met up with Chris and Nikki.

The harem was fascinating.  Very secluded, over 400 rooms.  Dark corridor of cells for eunuchs.  The bigger rooms had lovely decorated doors of fruit and pink patterned walls, blue tiles, and incredibly intricate ceilings - the Crown Prince's room had a material covered dome ceiling.  Turkish baths and the Sultan's room had running water in so that people couldn't hear what he was discussing with his mother about politics etc.

Fresh fish sandwiches off boats at Galata Bridge
Lovely large entertainment room, low lying bolsters, carpet covered floor, chair with eagle from Willhelm III, and 2 clocks from Queen Victoria.  About 300-500 women in all.

Then we headed straight for the quayside for fish and bread off the little boats - really good."

Thursday 19 August 2010

A SHERIFF, A TURKISH PUZZLE AND A STICKY (CAKE) SITUATION - ISTANBUL, 1976

Yeni Cami (New Mosque), Istanbul
SUNDAY 17TH OCTOBER, 1976

Part Two:
'Walked through market, reached Yeni Mosque, flocks of pigeons around the place.

At the quayside we bought fish and bread from a little bobbing boat, with a charcoal fire (looked hightly dangerous!)  Lined up by the rails were salt cellars and a bowl of garlic to be taken with the fish.



A Turk spotted Rob's sheriff badge and got talking.  He took us to a cay shop up the hill from the Blue Mosque and we had another sticky cake on the way back!

Di, Jan and Rob eating fish at Galata Bridge
Then we went to St Sophia, a museum now so didn't have to take off our shoes.  Tehran (a medical student) came back to the camp with us, we went up to the bar for a bit.  After supper I went to do some washing and Rob came and told me that Tehran wanted to see me.  Unfortunately he was sweet on me and wanted me for his girlfriend.  Gave me his Turkish puzzle ring!  He fixed for us all to go to a fish restaurant the next day.

Went back to bus eventually - had a little session; initiated the driver of the Encounter truck.'

Wednesday 18 August 2010

RED HOT SHOWERS, COOL BLUE MOSQUE & A MOUTHFUL OF CHESTNUTS - ISTANBUL, TURKEY


Blue Mosque, Istanbul
SUNDAY 17TH OCTOBER, 1976

Part One:
"Hot shower!  Porridge in the kitchen.  Dropped at the Blue Mosque - people bombed in on the bus with bread, pcs and shoe cleaning boxes!  Jan, Rob and me went to the Blue Mosque.  At the inner courtyard we took off our shoes and went in under a leather curtain.  Lovely inside - blue tiled mosaics - 4 main pillars (called elephants' feet) with arches and semi arches.  Turkish carpets covering all floor, with wooden trays for extra shoes.  Two taps on wall for drinking water from Mecca - guide zoomed up and told me to drink, but couldn't get anything to come out!

Inner courtyard of Blue Mosque
He told me about blue being to guard against the devil.  Showed me 3 black pieces of stone set in the wall - bits of the stone at Mecca; two large candles on either side of alcove - all facing to Mecca.  Beside was very steep, narrow staircase, pointing upwards - guide said no one allowed up because top belongs to God, top step to Mohammed, priest allowed half way up and speaks from there each day.  He calls people to prayer through microphone!  Large boards in black with gold inscriptions on 4 sides - the 4 most important prophets?

After (collected Diana too) we wandered off towards the Galata bridge, looking for dancing bears!  Streets very dirty and busy - bought chestnuts from a little toothless grinning man, popped extra ones into our mouths!"

Thursday 27 May 2010

INTO TURKEY - TASTING THE CAKES, AND REVELLING IN HOT SHOWERS AND LETTERS AT ESSO CAMPSITE

By the time we reached Turkey we had been on the road for three weeks, yet this was the first stop where we could pick up mail from home.  Imagine being out of contact with family and friends for that length of time in the 21st century - inconceivable!  Letters were like lottery wins and home entertainment rolled into one!

SATURDAY 16TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Early start - dark when got up - no one looked very bright!

Countryside fairly poor, flattish fields, lots of cart and oxen, dirty muddy rivers, mostly dried up; low hills in the distance.  Stopped at grotty town - spent last drachma on biscuits - funny blend of Turkish and European clothing - most women enveloped in black.  Little kids came after us for money - boys pushing smaller kids in prams - pathetic sight; came as quite a shock when felt a little tug at my elbow.

Stopped at border for a bit - some buses were made to empty completely - at Turkish side, bedding and things spread all around.

Long drive for most of the day.  Stopped for a cay stop in town on the coast.  Got a welcome in the cake shop (me and Neva needless to say!) everyone very friendly.  Had an eclair!

Eventually reached the Esso Campsite outside Istanbul - dark by that time, so haven't seen anything yet.  Kitchen facilities - all ate in the dinning room area - Encounter [Overland] group singing away at other end of room.

Hot showers here too!!!  Windy and cold tonight.  1st mail stop.  Letters from Mum and Dad."

Tuesday 25 May 2010

THASSOS ISLAND - cakes, surf and dishy Greeks all to ourselves, 1976

 Thassos Island and Keramoti on the Greek mainland were to be the inspiration for a disturbing incident in my novel OVERLANDERS (soon to be published as an e-book)

Ferry to Thassos Island
FRIDAY 15TH OCTOBER, 1976

Boat building
"Got the ferry across to Thassos Island - half hour trip (calmer than Skye crossing).  Fairly cloudly over island.  Landed at small town.  Wandered around streets with Neva and Sally - headed straight for cake shop.  Worked our way through apples, bicuits, pastries too! 

Various ruins in town - bits of pillar lying around.  Walked out along front, began to clear.  Saw men sorting their fishing nets and further along there was a timber yard with 3 boats being made - just the skeletons so far.  Lovely smell of freshly treated wood.  Also passed a shed with boy scout emblems on the walls - they get everywhere!  (Boy scouts not walls).

Nosed round small crafty shops, selling clothes, pottery, belts, jewellery etc.  Walked along past ferry landing, sat by the sea.  Met 2 English blokes who had been on Island for 2 or 3 weeks - we were quite an event as most tourists had left by now.  The really fat one said there were no jellies today - I nearly split myself when I saw his flabby belly - a bit incongruous!  They directed us in the direction (good English) of a nearby beach; so we stocked up on more food (a real piggy day!) - bread, toast, honey, cheese, yoghurt - Neva had another cake!

Neva and Sally on Thassos Island
We walked out of the village, up a lovely wooded hill road - great forests covering all the mountains.  Lovely leafy, sunny walk, very quiet and deserted.  Came down to a group of chalets, passed various open air dance floors and bars - everything closed down, so didn't have to pay, but made our way down to the private beach.  Fantastic breakers, so dashed straight in, whole beach to ourselves (only 1 little man in the distance).  Picturesque island just off the headland - Neva said looked like the Whitsun Islands.  Ate picnic and I snoozed in the sun.

Walking back, a taxi suddenly appeared and a man offered to take us in to the harbour - so got a free lift and reached the ferry in good time.  Met us with Bill and Shirley, Adrian, Chris and Hans.

Coming into Keramoti again - looked like South American swampy village, very flat.  Sally and I wandered around Keramoti - lots of hes and rather shabby plots, though houses were quite gayly painted.

Lovely sunset early evening - played with a football with a little local boy and Adrian - ball kept going into the flooded areas - my white trousers got an even worse coating of grime!

Keramoti beach bar
Most people had a meal out at the nearby bar - took ages to come.  I had 3 small fishes, tomato salad, chips and bread - washed down with plenty Domestica!  Bar filled up with Greeks - eventually we were all dancing.  I went and sat with some Greeks - 2 really dishy.  The Thessalonican medical student was a bit persistent, suggested a swim - eventually escaped saying my husband was waiting for me!  Hid in the bus.  Felt a bit down again - Mark cheered me up.
New girl finally caught up with bus - Mary (New Zealand)."

Wednesday 5 May 2010

GREEK COAST-SCOTTISH VIBE - GREAT BAKERIES AND CAMPING IN THE RAIN, 1976

THURSDAY 14TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Very windy and overcast.  Lovely coastal scenery once more, rather Scottish again with blue fingers of land and grey-blue sky.

Stopped at Lavadia for shopping stop.  Shops never very well presented.  Greek towns dirtier and less attractive than I'd imagined.  Had lovely pastries with cheese filling (Heidi, Frances and Diana) - I won't lose any weight on this trip!


Picked up the other 6 at their beach camp.  They'd had lots of sun and fish barbecues etc.  Went to Thessalonika, tried to cash money, all banks close between 1 and 4 though.  Had sandwiches down by the waterside.  Very grey and windy, but quite stuffy too.  Others (Paul and Mark) had big gallon flask of ouzo type drink ("Cheepero") which they tucked into.  Others of us drank wine - couldn't touch the ouzo again! 

Began to rain this evening.  Pressed on along coast to camp where ferry crosses to Thassos Island - absolutely chucking it down - had no trouble getting pegs in tonight!"

Tuesday 4 May 2010

DELPHI, GREECE - AMONG GODS, PIGEONS AND MURMURING CROWDS, 1976

WEDNESDAY 13TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Left Athens.  Dropped Nanette.  Making for Delphi. Incredible amount of shrines along roadside - only seen 1 vandalised yet had loads of small crosses and cups etc inside.  Began to get mountainous - Delphi in big mountains - ruins all the way up mountain slope.

Made my sacrifice of 30 drachma (i.e. full price) and went in.  Got in on bad tour, woman couldn't find the baize of the tripod!  Saw Temple of Apollo and amphitheatre.  Decided to climb even further to see the Stadium - went up dusty windy path, cheap of birds, disturbed a few pigeons.  Reached Stadium, really high up and hidden among trees.  FANTASTIC sight, just me and the gods up there, could almost see the chariot tracks in the dust.  A gust of wind in the trees sounded like the murmur of the crowd!  All the seats around one side of the stadium still well preserved; big square pillars at one end.  (Went to the loo looking down over the stadium - what a boast!)  Fantastic view of the mountains looking down from the top.

Travelled on through striking mountain scenery (much hazier and drier that Jugoslavia.  Idyllic pastoral scene cant have been so idyllic on such arid, dusty mountain slopes).  Clouded over.  Worked way down hairpin bends to a small town where we stopped for a "coffee stop" - taken to drinking nescafe to avoid sweetened Turkish coffee.

Camped again at Stylis - different part of coast, very near beach again and a quiet bar (with great toilet facilities!)  Had a nice Amstel beer then a good camp supper of steak and kidney and fresh melon!  Ground really hard; dark when we pitched - think it's on a road in an orchard!"

Sunday 18 April 2010

ATHENS - ACROPOLIS AT DUSK, FLYING SHISHKEBAB AND TAMLA MOTOWN, 1976

TUESDAY 12TH OCTOBER, 1976

" Late morning - 8.0!  Wrote pcs and lazed around in sun during morning.  Snooped round other Swagman bus and played Tamla Motown - they've much better selection than us.  Few of us left, had omelette and beans for lunch.

Lift in with Magic Bus.  Tried to get Nanette [girl we gave lift to from Methoni] away on the bus to London, but got there too late.  Chased round square to contact Geoff and get her luggage back to camp.  By late afternoon finally started sightseeing!

Made way up narrow lanes to Acropolis, kept losing everybody.  While at Acropolis most tourists were leaving and sun going down between the pillars of the Parthenon, hazy view out to sea.  View of Temple of Zeus and other hill (Athens not an attractive city - much of it dug up and half built, very dirty).  Guards and band appeared and played while flag lowered.  Men blew whistles frantically when anyone tried to go inside Parthenon.  One attendant gave us a pollo; another called Jan Athena, me Aphrodite and Rob Zeus!  All seem very friendly.

We wandered down small streets, little leather shops etc, till came to restaurant with tables in street, waiter just about dragged us off street and sat us in front of menu.  Presumed this was where we were to meet Fred.  Had Demestica while waited then ordered meal.  Had disappointing shishkebab and greasy cheese salad - flung half on floor trying to get off skewer - dogs ate it!  Loads of cats too.  Nanette came across us - had been lost in area.  Eventually Fred and other Swagman driver Steve found us.

At 9.0 we went up to see Son et Lumiere looking across at Acropolis.  Thought it over dramatic, some of it quite hilarious. "Thwack, wack, build and build" and mad dash of running feet, like something out of the Goons!  Afterwards several of us went for a coffee down from Acropolis in big empty restaurant with carpets and bags on the wall.  Got lift home with other Swagman bus."

THERMOPYLAE TO ATHENS - HOT SPRINGS, COLD SHOWERS, HOMESICK, 1976

Aussie Jan trying to climb out of hot spring at Thermopylae
MONDAY 11TH OCTOBER, 1976

" 1st stop, small town, had coffee.  2nd stop was the hot sulphur spring at Thermopylae - bathed feed in the water - fantastic, just like a hot bath (really slimy on bottom).  What a boast!

Then stopped to take picture of Spartan memorial, quite impressive. 

Very dry, hazy countryside.  Felt bored and a bit low.  Got to Athens in the afternoon, camped and had fantastic cold shower.  Felt human again.  Met up with other Swagman bus - talked to nice Aussie bloke.
Had drink at bar (Chris, Nikki, Adrian, Chris, Rob, Sue, Pam, Diane) Felt really depressed.  Went and talked to Di and Frances, doing washing, they felt bit homesick too.  Pam pissed off too."

Friday 16 April 2010

METEORA, GREECE - BEESWAX CANDLES, SHY ORPHANS, VOTIVE CORN ON THE COB, 1976

SUNDAY 10TH OCTOBER, 1976

"No after effects [of Ouzo] at all!
Headed down coast - dropped off 6 at a campsite [Platamon] - not coming to Athens - Paul, Julie, Mark, Pam, Neva and Sally.  A lot more room and quiet!  They wrote rude messages on bus as we left.

Made inland - detour to trip.  Suddenly left plain and huge rocks and cliffs appeared - very dramatic scenery.  Convents perched really high up on these cliffs, amazing sight [Monasteria of Meteora].  Climbed up road and stopped at Convent of St Stephen - had a look round - not allowed in unless wearing a dress and arms covered.  Let in across drawbridge - nuns almost totally covered in black.  Small courtyard inside - orphanage made up one side - no signs of kids until just leaving, then little faces appeared from a window.  View out over small town at foot of cliff-face and hazy blue horizon of plain - quite hot.

Small chapel - seats like monks at Durham, with small ledge so when dozed off seat collapses.  Very ornate icons, beeswax candles, incense etc.

(Before reaching here we stooped at a spring - very touristy, stalls selling corn on the cob, nuts, sticky sweets as well as religious emblems and bags and Davy Crocket hats.  Little chapel at other side, across suspension bridge, priest doing baptisms - very noisy and chaotic, walked round reciting while mother and baby follow, then slams down book and slaps wet cloths on the yelling baby.  Another fellow rushed in, stood at the lecturn and recited too, tourists milling in and out all the time).

Fred hung corn on the cob above table [on bus] - health hazard with flies.
Stopped and camped by sea again - Stylis.  We cooked another fantastic meal - my elaborately prepared custard was revoltingly runny!

That evening 3 Greeks bought us some beer at the nearby bar and ended up paying for all beer that evening!  They kept chucking the empties under the table and ordering more!  (Spent about £6 worth)  By the end (after a million 'vivas!') everyone was calling each other philo and phili!"


"remains of deadly corn on the cob - property of Fred and Jan"

Thursday 15 April 2010

METHONI, GREECE - SWIMMING, DANCING, 'SMASHED' 1976

On cooking duty in Greece - went over budget and overboard with the garlic and sustained a blister courtesy of the bubbling Smash (does anyone else remember that distinctive industrial taste of powdered mashed potato?)  Had my first and last encounter with the mind bending substance Ouzo - now I understand the warning: beware of Greeks bearing gifts ... 

SATURDAY 9TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Left early for Greek border.  I was doing cooking with Nikki and Chris.  Stopped at small town to shop - lots of sign language in the market (all 4 stalls!).  Overspent money.  Crossed border making butties!  Beer at border a rip-off.

Made for east coast, camped in afternoon at Methoni fishing village.  All went down to the beach (tents a stone's throw away from sea), swam in the Aegean Sea! - very slimy and shallow!

Prepared meal with frisbies flying everywhere - got one in the back of the neck!  Fantastic spicy, garlic etc stew (La stew as opposed to Le Stew.  Drew up stupid menu - wide-mouthed frog and caterpiller pie, les afters, tic tac a la Robert etc!)  The smash (vocanic) spat at me and burnt finger - gorgeous blister.

Then all went down to nearest bar - some people been there since very early.  Tested out ouzo - only drank half bottle (too many).  Other Greeks there playing instruments - so some got up and did Greek dancing with them - Shirley being one of course.  Adrian keeled over - took 4 of us to get him to tent where spewed up.

Other group - 2 Scouse, I Irish and girl who is getting lift to Athens with us.  I thought I was OK but got to bus and memory is a complete blank!  Apparently I was feeling awful, hanging out of bus window and sounding upset.  Remember heading for sea at one point and sitting there - Rob came and rescued me, got things out of bus and found my tent.  After that I escaped again and headed for bus because heard music playing.  Apparently nearly murdered tape deck and shouted obscenities at Fred and Jan about the noise - vague recollection - Fred said that's last time I get to choose music!"

Monday 12 April 2010

CAKOR PASS IN JUGOSLAVIA - DIZZYING DROPS, PINK SHEEP AND ROUGH RED WINE, 1976

"Heavy due and mist.  Kids all going to school past camp.  Fantastic views up steep mountain sides.  Very deep valleys, heavily wooded with incredibly perched farms and vertical fields - people tending herds by side of road, lots of carts and donkeys.  Very narrow dusty road, dropping away on my side of the bus in sheer drops!  Kept meeting other buses, looked out of window, so close to edge that couldn't see road at all!

Eventually at top of Cakor Pass, had black coffee and door-stop goat's cheese sandwich.  Then down hairpin bends again to 13th century Byzantine Church.  Peaceful convent beside - two rather formidable ladies in black wouldn't let people in with t-shirts unless covered up bare arms.  Lovely paintings on walls inside - four different churches all together (originally centre for Serbian bishops).

Walked around Pec - not interesting town, but people very friendly and bought fantastic chocolate eclair at sticky cake shop!  Poverty very noticeable; lots of women dressed in Turkish style baggy trousers and white headdresses; men in white caps.

People always waving as bus passes; noticeably more Arabic in features than northern Jugoslavs.  Countryside flatter here, the odd mosque in the distance, pink sheep by wayside, lots of people just sitting around by side of road, many houses seem only half built.

Stopped for lunch by few houses, kids appeared from nowhere when we began playing with frisbies - lovely little boy got very excited about the game.  Great send off.  Unfortunately had to return to hunt for Rob's lighter, but not found.  Paul opened bottle of rough red wine about 4.0!  Few of us had some - felt good on half a cup full!  Ate nuts and grapes with it.  (Nobody is allowed to sleep at the back; the new rule is to shout and nudge anyone who tries to fall asleep - mustn't miss the view or show that had a heavy night before!)

Camping at Skopje - bar and doughnuts just opposite tents!  Little attendant wandering round counting us - even in showers - didn't get away with 23 people!

Thursday 25 March 2010

MONTENEGRO - CHARLES BRONSON AND THE COMFY CUSHION, 1976

[It's a measure of the rough comfort of life on the road that I got excited about big comfy seats in a bar in Montenegro ...]


Mountains and lakes before Titograd with view of Albania in the distance!



THURSDAY 7TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Through Montenegro countryside - big thickly wooded hills, green fields, quite poor looking houses.  Again gaping curiosity, but waves too.

Made camp early evening at Ivangrad by the hotel.  Lots of children and voices sing out of the dark now and again.

After supper went to hotel bar - fantastic big seats (Paul, Julie, me, Chris, Nikki, Pam, Neva).  Went down to disco (band playing mostly Greek type music).  Joined by Mark, Rob, Diana, Frances.  Other Jugoslavs latched onto our table.  Never seen so many males.  Charles Bronson looking one asked me to dance (and more besides although he only spoke German!)  Other fat man joined in with belly dance.  To avoid hassle, went and sat down again and pretended was married to Adrian!

One thought Paul wanted to dance with him when told him to move along!  By this time they were getting aggressive - one smashed, accused Frances of stealing his gold chain - (didn't have enough to pay for his drinks).  A bit of hassle with people shouting and conferring.  Paul threatened him with police.  He followed us back, so Fred and Rob took him back to proprietor and with threat of police he left.  We all repaired to the bus for a coffee.  Long chat with Rob - friendly advice, nice to have someone to trust."
River Moraca gorge, beyond Titograd

Wednesday 24 March 2010

LAST GULPERS FOR NORTH EAST VETERANS, SOUTH SHIELDS, 17 MARCH 2010

RUSSIAN CONVOY CLUB - FINAL "CHRISTMAS" LUNCH AT SOUTH SHIELDS  - IN MARCH!

The veterans of the North East of England branch of the Russian Convoy Club held a belated Christmas knees-up at South Shields Seamen's Mission, as the venue had been closed during December.  It was a cheerful (as always) but poignant occasion, as the branch has decided to disband - there are too few men left attending regular meetings to keep it going.

It was well organised by old salt, Bob Roberston and his wife of 67 years, Audrey.  There was a turn out of 14 comrades and just as many wives, widows and family members - including my brother Torquil and myself - to enjoy the delicious three course lunch.  Wine, beer and tots of rum were flowing - "Gulpers not sippers!" as my neighbour toasted cheerily.

Our dad, Norman MacLeod, who was on 5 convoys (on The Marne) across the Arctic to Murmansk and Archangel to supply the Soviets during the Second World War, was a regular attender at the Christmas bashes, enjoying the convivial company and the sing-song of old hits.  He loved his time at sea - he was in his early twenties and it was a huge adventure - and he made light of the constant dangers.  He would tell with delight that the only time he was injured during the war was in a bar brawl in Wallsend coming to the defence of some marines against Polish sailors - he ended up in the RVI with stitches in his head.  Still, he must have been impressed with the Geordies, because Scottish Norman returned in 1950 and settled in Durham as a teacher.

Dad's roll call of action included the evacuation of Crete, the relief of Malta, the Dieppe raids and the North Africa landings.  But in later life it was the lads on the Russian convoys that he met up with again in the North East of England and enjoyed many a reminisce over many a tot.


The North East group plan a final get-together in November - before that particular branch 'passes over the bar' - I hope I can be there to raise a glass on Dad's behalf for a last gulpers.

[You can read more stories about Norman in my childhood memoir, Beatles & Chiefs hhtp://bit.ly/80tTM2]