MONTENEGRO - CHARLES BRONSON AND THE COMFY CUSHION, 1976

[It's a measure of the rough comfort of life on the road that I got excited about big comfy seats in a bar in Montenegro ...]


Mountains and lakes before Titograd with view of Albania in the distance!



THURSDAY 7TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Through Montenegro countryside - big thickly wooded hills, green fields, quite poor looking houses.  Again gaping curiosity, but waves too.

Made camp early evening at Ivangrad by the hotel.  Lots of children and voices sing out of the dark now and again.

After supper went to hotel bar - fantastic big seats (Paul, Julie, me, Chris, Nikki, Pam, Neva).  Went down to disco (band playing mostly Greek type music).  Joined by Mark, Rob, Diana, Frances.  Other Jugoslavs latched onto our table.  Never seen so many males.  Charles Bronson looking one asked me to dance (and more besides although he only spoke German!)  Other fat man joined in with belly dance.  To avoid hassle, went and sat down again and pretended was married to Adrian!

One thought Paul wanted to dance with him when told him to move along!  By this time they were getting aggressive - one smashed, accused Frances of stealing his gold chain - (didn't have enough to pay for his drinks).  A bit of hassle with people shouting and conferring.  Paul threatened him with police.  He followed us back, so Fred and Rob took him back to proprietor and with threat of police he left.  We all repaired to the bus for a coffee.  Long chat with Rob - friendly advice, nice to have someone to trust."
River Moraca gorge, beyond Titograd

XMAS EVE IN KATHMANDU - PARTY TIME! 1976

FRIDAY 24TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Xmas Eve!  Di not well.  Went into town early and sent telegram home, "Happy Christmas - love you all. Alcoholica"!
Met up with Mark and Pam - wandered back - Mark bargained for our postcards - any excuse for an argument!  Walked through backstreets - cows, dark shops, rickshaws, kids with pockmarks - Pam worried in case gets chickenpox.  Met Rob and Maree eating rock hard gooey things - Mark said looked like cow pats!

Went in later to collect suits - Di went back because sick.  Yeti Travels, then expensive tea at Ra Ra Restaurant - not good.

Had bread and cheese and curd in room - Di in bed; Heidi egg nogging!  Then went to rum punch party in Chris and Nikki's room.  Really good fun - lots of people there, great drink.  Rude comments about my green suit - "come in your pyjamas" etc.  Sang Christmas carols then decided to sing outside KC's - so we all grouped at the door and sang away - difficulty in remembering words, but appreciated by diners at KC's Xmas Eve party.  Sally knocked down some of new kitchen wall!  KC very tolerant with us.  Some of us sneaked in and listened to guitarists and drank Night Lifes, while others went on to sing elsewhere.

Tried to organise going to midnight mass but didn't know where place was - Mike had already set off walking, had said I'd go too.  Joined others in cake shop - KC lit cake with brandy on - all had some - kept pouring rum into my coffee - no one paid for anything!  All very merry.  Went round kissing everyone merry Xmas.  Back to restaurant - funny little urchins grabbing onto us out of the dark.  Locked us into restaurant, so Nikki rushed back for Chris and others!  Pushed back tables and had a disco - really great bop.  Finished about 3 o'clock!  Got Xmas kiss from KC!"