A SHERIFF, A TURKISH PUZZLE AND A STICKY (CAKE) SITUATION - ISTANBUL, 1976

Yeni Cami (New Mosque), Istanbul

SUNDAY 17TH OCTOBER, 1976

Part Two:
'Walked through market, reached Yeni Mosque, flocks of pigeons around the place.

At the quayside we bought fish and bread from a little bobbing boat, with a charcoal fire (looked hightly dangerous!)  Lined up by the rails were salt cellars and a bowl of garlic to be taken with the fish.



A Turk spotted Rob's sheriff badge and got talking.  He took us to a cay shop up the hill from the Blue Mosque and we had another sticky cake on the way back!

Di, Jan and Rob eating fish at Galata Bridge

Then we went to St Sophia, a museum now so didn't have to take off our shoes.  Tehran (a medical student) came back to the camp with us, we went up to the bar for a bit.  After supper I went to do some washing and Rob came and told me that Tehran wanted to see me.  Unfortunately he was sweet on me and wanted me for his girlfriend.  Gave me his Turkish puzzle ring!  He fixed for us all to go to a fish restaurant the next day.

Went back to bus eventually - had a little session; initiated the driver of the Encounter truck.'

ATHENS - ACROPOLIS AT DUSK, FLYING SHISHKEBAB AND TAMLA MOTOWN, 1976

TUESDAY 12TH OCTOBER, 1976

" Late morning - 8.0!  Wrote pcs and lazed around in sun during morning.  Snooped round other Swagman bus and played Tamla Motown - they've much better selection than us.  Few of us left, had omelette and beans for lunch.

Lift in with Magic Bus.  Tried to get Nanette [girl we gave lift to from Methoni] away on the bus to London, but got there too late.  Chased round square to contact Geoff and get her luggage back to camp.  By late afternoon finally started sightseeing!

Made way up narrow lanes to Acropolis, kept losing everybody.  While at Acropolis most tourists were leaving and sun going down between the pillars of the Parthenon, hazy view out to sea.  View of Temple of Zeus and other hill (Athens not an attractive city - much of it dug up and half built, very dirty).  Guards and band appeared and played while flag lowered.  Men blew whistles frantically when anyone tried to go inside Parthenon.  One attendant gave us a pollo; another called Jan Athena, me Aphrodite and Rob Zeus!  All seem very friendly.

We wandered down small streets, little leather shops etc, till came to restaurant with tables in street, waiter just about dragged us off street and sat us in front of menu.  Presumed this was where we were to meet Fred.  Had Demestica while waited then ordered meal.  Had disappointing shishkebab and greasy cheese salad - flung half on floor trying to get off skewer - dogs ate it!  Loads of cats too.  Nanette came across us - had been lost in area.  Eventually Fred and other Swagman driver Steve found us.

At 9.0 we went up to see Son et Lumiere looking across at Acropolis.  Thought it over dramatic, some of it quite hilarious. "Thwack, wack, build and build" and mad dash of running feet, like something out of the Goons!  Afterwards several of us went for a coffee down from Acropolis in big empty restaurant with carpets and bags on the wall.  Got lift home with other Swagman bus."

DEATHLY WET IN VENICE - BUT SWAGGIES LOVE OF PARTYING NOT DAMPENED, 1976

LETTER HOME REMARKS: "The day had been full of sight seeing in Venice  ... we got caught in the alleyways of Venice in a real torrential downpour because we couldn't decide where to go!  It was a bit miserable wandering around, soaking wet jeans flapping around our ankles.  Still it's a really fascinating city - (was rather surprised to see Dirk Bogarde lurking around the Rialto Bridge, but no doubt it added to the atmosphere!)" [As a family, we had gone to see Death in Venice just before I went away; my Dad and brother Rory had hammed up the parts of Dirk Bogarde and the youth with which he's infatuated]

SUNDAY 3RD OCTOBER, 1976

"Into Venice for sight-seeing.  Boat to Rialto Bridge, wandered around very narrow winding streets and over small canals.  Rain began again!  St Mark's Square - quick look in church, but mass was being said - tourists very noisy all around. 

Went to Doge's Palace with Heidi [from Germany] and Frances [from London] - great rooms heavily gilded and decorated, impressive parliament room.  Over Bridge of Sighs and round prison - graffiti on ledges, very dark.

Decided to look for pizza - easier said than done!  Couldn't find cheap pizzas, only lots of restaurants.  Rain was pissing down by this time - got drenched and more hungry!  Eventually dashed out of rain - lousy pizzas!(pleasant wine).  Made way back to Rialto Bridge, and up river again.  Frances bought a leather pouch and then bartered for belt to go with it just before bus left.

Barbecue in bar - lovely chicken and salad (which had to be eaten indoors because of the rain!) Lots of wine - some came back from getting left behind at 84th birthday party in a bar.  Very rowdy night, people on tables, under tables!  I got wine spilt all down my back.  (Paul and Mark singing and dancing on tables).  Ended up in bus.  Ann collapsed, Mark collapsed - scars all over.  Fred turfed us off bus - wine not finished.  Escorted home again.  When Ann was carried into cabin, a sleepy befuddled Neva asked who it was.  On being told it was Ann, she made the classic remark, "but there's no Ann on this trip"!!

(T-shirts for Swagman handed out - mine was out of shape because Fred had worn it first thinking it was his - then it got spattered in wine later on!)"

SWAGMAN TOURS HITS TOWN - booze and bad jokes lead to police and irate campers, 1976

[Swaggies hit Pisa and Florence to the consternation of some, as I record in a letter home - "All the more cushy tours (the type who use camp chairs etc) look in either amazement or derision at 'Swagman Tours' - people almost fall out of windows when Swagman hits town!"

Janice, Little Jan, Aussie Jan, Little Pam

At Pisa (or Pizza as I miss-spell it in my diary) I write home, "I'm getting good at pitching a tent in the dark.  My tent mates are 2 Aussies who've been 'doing' Europe and a Londoner who has been doing nursing.  Unfortunately 3 of us are called Jan, but we seem to manage without too much trouble!"  We became identified as Aussie Jan, Little Jan (me), Janice and Little Pam.  When I refer to Jan in the diary it usually means Aussie Jan who became a good friend.

THURSDAY 30TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"Saw round the Tower (or rather up it).  Felt dizzy because so uneven.  Lovely setting, next to big cathedral and area of grass.  Lots of grockley shops too.  Good view from top.  Cathedral cool, dark, empty, few candles.
Quick coffee (Mark, Jan, Rob and me) then off to Florence.

Camped at Michelangelo campsite.  Walked around (Janice, Hans, Mark and me), nice view looking down hill to Florence, lots of trees.  Bar, shop, jukebox and pinball/football machines.  Did washing.

Early evening drove into Florence, saw round Cathedral square, lots of little art shops, leather shops, pizza smells. (Mark fancied a photo in a window that looked like himself).  Got dark quickly, place began to come alive, lots of people suddenly appeared.  Driving back, saw all the lights along the riverside.

Lots of people drifted to the bar.  Good camp meal.  Back to bar for the night.  Too much wine and beer and bad jokes!  I ended up making coffee in the bus for Geoff, Rob and Jan - sucker.  Camp police or whatever (after a good session themselves) told us to keep the noise down, then one irate camper.  Various people spewed up, coffee knocked over, Jan put into her tent after falling among the foamies!

(C.C.T Tour pulled up today - another posh tour - camping chairs etc!  Classic looks all the way when people see Swagman ride into town!)"

OVERLANDERS IN PARIS - some eat well, others just head for the bars, 1976

[Day Two and it was into Paris to do the tourist thing.  We were camping in the Bois de Boulogne so in the evening scrounged a lift with another tour bus going back into the centre.  They were going for a posh group meal out while we headed for a bar and complained about the price of drinks - which more or less set the tone of our group from the start - cheap and cheerful!]

MONDAY 27TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"Lift in with other bus to Louvre - some went in there - but some of us went to see the Impressionist Art Gallery (Frances, Sally, Heidi, Jan Diana, Mark and me).  Really good.  Super one of a family gathering!  Liked Van Gogh and Monet.  Lovely serene characters and backgrounds.

Walked for miles to other Modern Art Gallery but was closed.  In great need of a drink by this time!  Decided to make for Latin Quarter.  Caught tube and found a cafe - had a citron presse!  Expensive, must have paid for the view (National Bank of Paris).  Wandered around the streets - temporarily lost as two hunting for malaria tablets.  Ate quiche Lorraine.

Sally and Frances went to see a friend.  We decided to walk home through the Bois, so spent ages rushing from one tube line to the other - all turfed off at one station, some at one before - some French game to play in the rush hour probably.  Finally walked back - people training and being energetic in the Bois, lots of exclusive houses (didn't call on Omar Sharif).

Hot shower, great!  In evening got lift into Paris with ContikiTours - drove round Arc de Triomphe (several times before getting off).  Saw everything floodlit.  Their tour went to a restaurant while we went to a bar down the street.  A rip off for the drinks because we sat down.  Arguing didn't pay off!  Trip round Montmartre rained off.  (Chris, Nikki, Sue, Pam, Pam, Neva, Rob, Mark, Jan, Hans and me)."

DURHAM CALLING DELHI - breakthrough phone call, Swaggies bearing whisky and Tandoori celebration, 1977

[Day 12 stranded in Delhi but things are looking up: contact is made with home, a ticket is on its way and I bump into 2 old friends from the overland trip, Canadians Shirley and Bill.  Once again the overland drivers of Connaught Place treat me as one of the fraternity and John keeps me fed and watered.]

Bill and Shirley, fellow Swaggies from Canada, 1976

MONDAY 10TH JANUARY, 1977

" Call came through at 7.0.  Got Dad and told him to buy ticket, said Mum would buy it in Edinburgh. Relief!  Had breakfast with John.  Dad called again!  Said ticket would be to Newcastle plus £25 to cover costs.  Had to disengage from blatant proposals of Bali!  Even after 6 years in Germany he still has warped view of western women. 

Went to B.A and told them good news.  Sat on bus again.  Nice co-driver Bob appeared - amusing.  Margaret came with me to see if P.T.A through.  No!  Guess who saw crossing road - Shirl and Bill!! [fellow Swaggies from bus trip]  Ran after them - big welcome.  Went to Palace Heights were they were staying and sat on terrace waiting for them with various of the patrons - nice bunch - good looking too!  Saw S & B's room - really nice and big, clean with beds, tables, phone, toilet etc for less than YMCA.  Finished their Haig with them!

Got back - walked across park in Connaught Circus - huge fountains spraying me, Indian music - all rather festive.  John took me out to Embassy Restaurant for a meal - had Tandoori Chicken - nice.  Went for drink at Imperial - "the local"!"

LAST SUNRISE IN KATHMANDU - goodbye to Swaggies, KC, backstreets and friendly puppy, 1976

KC, restaurant owner, Thamel, Kathmandu

[Last sunrise in Kathmandu - goodbye to last of the Swaggie friends and final breakfast at KC's before Nikki and I flew away from the snow-clad Himalayas.  Chrispin waved us off - he was heading off to do more travelling around India, so I took his large suitcase home and leant him my backpack and sleeping bag not thinking I would have need of them again for a while ... bad call as it turned out!]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Up very early because Heidi leaving at 6.  As she went I could lie and see the sunrise out of the door.  Lovely winter morning - dark clouds with orange-pink light seeping into sky behind.  Hils dark behind and trees in foreground full of the noise of birds.  Streets quiet for once but dogs already beginning to stir in hotel courtyard (big black one and little black puppy that looks like a baby bear and plays with my tatty jeans!)

Waved off Heidi, Pam and Mark - fresh cool air of early morning.  Met Chris and Nikki and went for breakfast at KC's - he was still asleep on the chairs!  OK and KC helped get us breakfast - fried eggs, toast and lovely milky KC coffee.  Back to hotel after KC wished us happy journey - amused when I said I'd see him in Scotland.  He has a saying that: Chinese food is best food, Japanese women best women, Nepalese dope best dope and Scotch whisky best whisky!

Taxi waiting for us.  Frances saw us off - Adrian still sick in bed.  Went to airport via narrow lanes - last glimpse of narrow streets inhabited by cows and dogs.  Our into fields then airport.  Chris organised us into right queues etc trying to cheer Nikki up.  Customs nosed around in cases - opened my souvenirs.  Body search - girl helped herself to coconuts and Nikki's cigs!  Walked out to small Nepalese plane - Chris waving us off from terrace.  From plane, Nikki noticed that he lit up cigarette (she was always trying to control his consumption).  Waved us off even when in the air. 

Circled over Kathmandu - saw terraced brown fields and houses for last time growing more distant - picked out the Boudhnath Stupa.  Great white range behind us, slightly clouded; then left Kathmandu Valley and on into smaller range of hills with roads winding through them."

SAD FAREWELLS EASED BY COFFEE & CAKE AT KC's, Kathmandu 1976

[More Swaggie friends departing and feeling jaded after the previous heady day - there's only one remedy - back to KC's for coffee and cake!]

Swaggies eating at KC's, Thamel, Kathmandu, 1976

WEDNESDAY 22ND DECEMBER, 1976

"Went to airport to see Pam and Sue off.  Great scenes of tears as said goodbye - especially when Pam said bye to Rob, Mike, Anders ...!  Waved them away from terrace.

Washed jeans!  Moved up to Di and Heidi's room.  Tried to write letter but gave up.  Tried to find diary but gave up!  So went and had cake and coffee at KC's!

Went to Utze's quite late that evening with Di and Sally - had 4 dishes between us - lovely food - sweet and sour chop suey, rice, chicken etc.  Then had banana split - enjoyed every calorie!"

SWAYAMBHU MONKEY TEMPLE - the spiritual and then the high spirits of partying Swaggies, Kathmandu 1976

[The spirit was with me in more than one sense on this day: fantastic climb to the Buddhist temples at Swayambhunath, mixing with the monks, worshippers and monkeys - then a high-spirited evening of Nepali rum and country liquor to mark the final evening of Aussie friends Pam (my room-mate) and Sue, who were heading back home.  As ever, we ended up eating at KC's]

Buddha and me at Swayambhu

TUESDAY 21ST DECEMBER, 1976

"Walked to Swayambhu with Chris and Nikki and Fran.  Coldish morning - set off through back streets the wrong way, ended up crossing mud banks and planks over river.  Lots of little people rushing around with huge baskets of earth balanced on poles across their shoulders.  Saw moving haystacks with legs rushing along underneath! - must be very strong.

Got lost among intensely cultivated fields - lovely countryside - saw boys making mud bricks; kids playing, cowpat-type things drying on walls of houses.  Walked up terracing on narrow ridges between fields and across pole over stream!  Everyone very amused at little file walking about.  At least we weren't plagued by rickshaw drivers.  "Hello, rickshaw ...!"

Decided to rest before climbed steps up to Monkey Temple - very steep!  Exhausted at top - loads of monkeys running about and whizzing down railings.  Top was crowded with little shrines - pretty filthy everywhere; spattered with white and red paint.  Saw ceremony outside shrine - people squatting, old man reading from manuscript while others poured water over flowers.

Various monks wandering round the big stupa (biggest in world) spinning prayer wheels, dressed in maroon robes, cropped hair.  Nothing doing in temple (no horns etc)  Found pie shop!  Very reasonable prices.

Wandered back across bridge and back through main way - passed loads of washing.  Got bacck and flopped on bed - went to sleep! (Shows really unfit).

Woke when Fran came in.  Sue came and said Geoff taking her out to eat instead of group farewell meal - Pam fuming - Geoff make it worse by pretending he'd done nothing wrong.  Pam calmed down.  Hans and Little Chris came in - somehow started a booze-up!  Passing round gin, rum, whisky and country liquor!  By 7.30 we were all well away - "Pissed out o' me skull" as Little Chris put it!  Don't know how we made it over to KC's!  Had great meal there - tomato soup and steak.  Managed to eat it with bit of difficulty.  Sat next to Mike who told me how he never drank anymore!

Back to room (after a "Night Life" - rum and lemon) - had great party - room packed with people.  Chris had crashed next door - locked self in, so when Hans tried to get in, we were banging and shouting and chucking things through the window - finally woke him, though he doesn't remember unlocking the door!"




Little Chris, Hans and Pam at Hotel Star party