PASSAGE FROM INDIA - Delhi dawn to snowy Durham with smelly jeans and champagne, 1977

[This surreal day began in Delhi, with my guardian angel (in the form of seasoned overland driver John) driving me out to the airport in his bus, and ended in snow-bound Durham in the North East of England.  Nothing prepares for the feeling of dislocation that air travel brings - a journey that had taken over 3 months by bus, was unravelled in a day.  I remember two teenage girls holding their noses when I went down the aeroplane aisle, which reminded me how long my jeans and I had been roughing it.  The British Council official whom I sat beside was far too gentlemanly to complain - so polite in fact that he failed to point out that for half the journey I wore my radio headphones up-side-down over my head rather than dangling like a stethoscope!  And then I was back in the warm embrace of the family; euphoric, babbling and punch-drunk with exhaustion but very happy to be there.  I would never be the same teenager who had set off from Durham the previous autumn and waves of nostalgia for Asia would hit me in months and years to come; but for now there was champagne, food and family around the kitchen table - and at last I was home.]

WEDNESDAY 12TH JANUARY, 1977

"Up at 4.0!  Packed and had toast and coffee.  John drove me in the bus; had tea at airport - checked in.  Unclaimed black bag near us!  We told 4 people, including Security, but not bothered!  John and Bob are taking the bus off today - making for Europe in 4 weeks - will be freezing trip eg Turkey minus 40 degrees at night!  Offered me a lift back and pay at other end if got stuck - nearly had to take it!

Security checks etc - finally on plane.  Next to nice ex-British Council man (like Hoppy [Canon Hopkins of Durham Cathedral] though not quite as vague!)  accompanying nice little lad back to school.  Told him of my adventure - he took half of journey working out the length of the journey!

Stopped at Barhain - swarthy blokes with cloths wrapped round heads and in jumpsuits came on board - no not a high-jack - they were the cleaners!  From plane saw Gulf and flat beaches, low buildings - all very oily and drab.  Landed at Damascus - armed guard, took ages for people to board.  Flat wasteland all around; but when took off saw great snow-capped mountains - flew over Lebanon and then Turkey.

Landed at Heathrow an hour late - journey taken about 13 and a half hours!  At Heathrow after customs etc, got bus to Terminus 1 and picked up money plus ticket for Newcastle.  Missed original flight.  Suddenly the loudspeaker boomed my name and ordered me to Information; feeling important but afraid I went - it was Mum and Dad wondering why I wasn't on plane!  I must be the most well-known lost traveller in the whole air flight business!

Had much needed half pint.  Plane late (so what' new!)  Onto plane finally - ordered Martini and fell asleep, woke to hear we're about to land!  No time for drink.  Hostress asked me if I was feeling alright.

Dad and Don [eldest brother] to greet me - in their Russian coats!  Snow thick on ground.  As drove home - told of great Delhi saga!  Mum and Barbara [sister-in-law] waiting.  Don and Barbara opened champagne for me.  Debbie [school friend] rang!  Flowers from Jock [Durham friend] and card from "the whole damn bunch"!  Torq [brother] phoned; just missed them.  Phoned Rory and Uncle Donald.

Wine with slap-up meal.  Gave presents - much concern over beedies - obviously hash at least.  Don said when you get to the string you bail out!  (Dad smoked the wrong end!)  After 26 hours finally fell into bed!  Adventure over !!!"

DELHI RE-VISITED - without the security blanket of the Swaggie bus - or even a sleeping bag!

[The day which started with sunrise in Kathmandu and a jolly rickshaw ride around Patna, took a decided turn for the worse when we reached Delhi that evening.  Leaving luggage at the airport, believing we would be in the city for just a night, we searched for somewhere to stay ...]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Three

"At [Delhi] airport we rush for cases, managed to leave them at left luggage, then got bus into city.  Driver suicidal - didn't slow down at roundabouts - drove on 2 wheels most of the way!  Saw us, laughed and drove even worse. 

Dropped at Connaught Place - Nikki had addrss of Palace Heights just off C.P. - up lift, found it was full!  Directed us to Jivan Lodge down the street.  Really tired and desperate for place (after 8pm).  Up loads of stairs, men staring at us from dark corridors.  Manager showed us to double room up more stairs.  Filthy room, with one old thin blanket on the beds.  About £2.50 for this hole but took it for the night. 

Music blaring from next door; bloke kept peering through glass panel that stretched along the whole of one bedroom wall.  We sat down feeling depressed - both agreed it seemed more like a brothel!  Went out and sat in State Coffee House looking thoroughly cheesed off; tried to make coffee last, dreaded going back.

When got back, we locked ourselves in and went to sleep fully dressed because had no sleeping bags with us.  Nick-named the place "the black hole of Delhi"!"

PATNA: RETURN TO INDIA - chilled beer and rickshaws but no Rolling Stones, 1976

[After the emotional farewell to Nepal, Nikki and I flew to Patna en route to Delhi.  A chilled beer, a rickshaw ride and pleasant people in Patna lulled us into a false sense of holiday.  We laughed at a mad American searching for the Rolling Stones and a cautionary tale that Swaggies had been left stranded in Delhi without tickets home ...]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Soon left the hills and below was the Plain of India.  Air hostess in sari said, 'Namaste' as we boarded.  Given nice snack and free Carlsberg beer! (chilled!)
Landed at Patna.  Met up with driver of Encounter Overland - cheerful hot-tempered Aussie.
Nice middle-aged Indian man - well travelled, amusing and very polite treated us to coffee then put us on a rickshaw and told the driver to give us a tour of Patna and drop us off for lunch then back for next flight.

Lovely day - felt on holiday as jogged through wide streets lined with trees and attractive bungalows.  Strange to be in India with no Swaggy bus in sight!  Familiar sights of men in loincloths; millions of bicycles and rickshaws pouring across traffic lights and mad drivers again.

Stopped and talked to funny American guy who'd missed the plane to Kathmandu because they had lost his luggage.  He asked our driver if the Stones were playing tonight in Patna!  He couldn't bear the idea of New Year in such a place! 

Went to bank then dropped at incredibly posh hotel - had a coffee!  Man was complaining behind me because he got cabbage and not carrots, just the limit because this morning he got orange instead of tomato juice!  What a fuss!

Back to airport - plane to leave at 2.55 - didn't leave until 4.30!  Talked with Encounter guy - he'd heard of Greyhound [Asian Greyhound] people having no tickets waiting at Delhi post restante!  Airport stood us sweet tea and gritty butties!

Air India flew us out - Indian music, bigger plane, hostesses in saris.  Gave revolting mango juice.  Landed at Lucknow then off again to Delhi.  Tiny snack and coffee."

LAST SUNRISE IN KATHMANDU - goodbye to Swaggies, KC, backstreets and friendly puppy, 1976

KC, restaurant owner, Thamel, Kathmandu

[Last sunrise in Kathmandu - goodbye to last of the Swaggie friends and final breakfast at KC's before Nikki and I flew away from the snow-clad Himalayas.  Chrispin waved us off - he was heading off to do more travelling around India, so I took his large suitcase home and leant him my backpack and sleeping bag not thinking I would have need of them again for a while ... bad call as it turned out!]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Up very early because Heidi leaving at 6.  As she went I could lie and see the sunrise out of the door.  Lovely winter morning - dark clouds with orange-pink light seeping into sky behind.  Hils dark behind and trees in foreground full of the noise of birds.  Streets quiet for once but dogs already beginning to stir in hotel courtyard (big black one and little black puppy that looks like a baby bear and plays with my tatty jeans!)

Waved off Heidi, Pam and Mark - fresh cool air of early morning.  Met Chris and Nikki and went for breakfast at KC's - he was still asleep on the chairs!  OK and KC helped get us breakfast - fried eggs, toast and lovely milky KC coffee.  Back to hotel after KC wished us happy journey - amused when I said I'd see him in Scotland.  He has a saying that: Chinese food is best food, Japanese women best women, Nepalese dope best dope and Scotch whisky best whisky!

Taxi waiting for us.  Frances saw us off - Adrian still sick in bed.  Went to airport via narrow lanes - last glimpse of narrow streets inhabited by cows and dogs.  Our into fields then airport.  Chris organised us into right queues etc trying to cheer Nikki up.  Customs nosed around in cases - opened my souvenirs.  Body search - girl helped herself to coconuts and Nikki's cigs!  Walked out to small Nepalese plane - Chris waving us off from terrace.  From plane, Nikki noticed that he lit up cigarette (she was always trying to control his consumption).  Waved us off even when in the air. 

Circled over Kathmandu - saw terraced brown fields and houses for last time growing more distant - picked out the Boudhnath Stupa.  Great white range behind us, slightly clouded; then left Kathmandu Valley and on into smaller range of hills with roads winding through them."