PASSAGE FROM INDIA - Delhi dawn to snowy Durham with smelly jeans and champagne, 1977

[This surreal day began in Delhi, with my guardian angel (in the form of seasoned overland driver John) driving me out to the airport in his bus, and ended in snow-bound Durham in the North East of England.  Nothing prepares for the feeling of dislocation that air travel brings - a journey that had taken over 3 months by bus, was unravelled in a day.  I remember two teenage girls holding their noses when I went down the aeroplane aisle, which reminded me how long my jeans and I had been roughing it.  The British Council official whom I sat beside was far too gentlemanly to complain - so polite in fact that he failed to point out that for half the journey I wore my radio headphones up-side-down over my head rather than dangling like a stethoscope!  And then I was back in the warm embrace of the family; euphoric, babbling and punch-drunk with exhaustion but very happy to be there.  I would never be the same teenager who had set off from Durham the previous autumn and waves of nostalgia for Asia would hit me in months and years to come; but for now there was champagne, food and family around the kitchen table - and at last I was home.]

WEDNESDAY 12TH JANUARY, 1977

"Up at 4.0!  Packed and had toast and coffee.  John drove me in the bus; had tea at airport - checked in.  Unclaimed black bag near us!  We told 4 people, including Security, but not bothered!  John and Bob are taking the bus off today - making for Europe in 4 weeks - will be freezing trip eg Turkey minus 40 degrees at night!  Offered me a lift back and pay at other end if got stuck - nearly had to take it!

Security checks etc - finally on plane.  Next to nice ex-British Council man (like Hoppy [Canon Hopkins of Durham Cathedral] though not quite as vague!)  accompanying nice little lad back to school.  Told him of my adventure - he took half of journey working out the length of the journey!

Stopped at Barhain - swarthy blokes with cloths wrapped round heads and in jumpsuits came on board - no not a high-jack - they were the cleaners!  From plane saw Gulf and flat beaches, low buildings - all very oily and drab.  Landed at Damascus - armed guard, took ages for people to board.  Flat wasteland all around; but when took off saw great snow-capped mountains - flew over Lebanon and then Turkey.

Landed at Heathrow an hour late - journey taken about 13 and a half hours!  At Heathrow after customs etc, got bus to Terminus 1 and picked up money plus ticket for Newcastle.  Missed original flight.  Suddenly the loudspeaker boomed my name and ordered me to Information; feeling important but afraid I went - it was Mum and Dad wondering why I wasn't on plane!  I must be the most well-known lost traveller in the whole air flight business!

Had much needed half pint.  Plane late (so what' new!)  Onto plane finally - ordered Martini and fell asleep, woke to hear we're about to land!  No time for drink.  Hostress asked me if I was feeling alright.

Dad and Don [eldest brother] to greet me - in their Russian coats!  Snow thick on ground.  As drove home - told of great Delhi saga!  Mum and Barbara [sister-in-law] waiting.  Don and Barbara opened champagne for me.  Debbie [school friend] rang!  Flowers from Jock [Durham friend] and card from "the whole damn bunch"!  Torq [brother] phoned; just missed them.  Phoned Rory and Uncle Donald.

Wine with slap-up meal.  Gave presents - much concern over beedies - obviously hash at least.  Don said when you get to the string you bail out!  (Dad smoked the wrong end!)  After 26 hours finally fell into bed!  Adventure over !!!"

LAST DAY IN DELHI - milkshakes, whisky and full moon levitating, 1977

[Day 13 in Delhi and lucky for some - my ticket home finally comes through.  I celebrate with ice cream milkshakes on John's bus and have deep spiritual conversations with a levitating French Canadian (though my euphoria might have more to do with Bill and Shirley's Indian whisky).  And there's a final trip to my local - the Imperial Hotel - for my last evening in India.]

TUESDAY 11TH JANUARY, 1977

"P.T.A came!  Bob, Margaret and Arthur on bus.  Had big ice cream milk shakes from Ramble (open-air) Restaurant again.  At 1.0 got ticket in my possession!  Flight for 7.0 next morning.  Went and found out bus times but John offered to drive me.

Ceylonese passenger came and plagued them again - always discovering he needs some other visa - gave them bag of Ceylonese tea (obviously backsheesh because he asked for a reduced fare!)  All street sellers came round bus - especially little orange seller - she's a real actress and businesswoman - looking much better off and charging more than when we came through Delhi the first time!  Someone tried to polish my shoes (as usual!)

Shirl and Bill appeared.  Went to their hotel - Indian whisky this time!  Chatted with French Canadian - really fascinating about Tibetan people in Ladakh-Kashmir and the Lamaist religion.  He was present at the Dalai Lama's performance of enlightenment and he communicated his thoughts to the lamas and 100 visitors chosen around him. (At the same time Mao died!  'He extinguished the almost exhausted candle' as the Canadian put it.  Great nationalist desire of Tibetans to regain their country.  He said it was easier to meditate in the mountains - eg concentrate on a full moon till eyes are filled with the light of the moon, then feel self lighter and think of many things.  Lamas achieve levitation - sit in bricked in rooms etc.  Lamas are chosen from birth - as babes on the 49th day).

They walked me back.  Went for a quick drink with John at the Imperial."

DURHAM CALLING DELHI - breakthrough phone call, Swaggies bearing whisky and Tandoori celebration, 1977

[Day 12 stranded in Delhi but things are looking up: contact is made with home, a ticket is on its way and I bump into 2 old friends from the overland trip, Canadians Shirley and Bill.  Once again the overland drivers of Connaught Place treat me as one of the fraternity and John keeps me fed and watered.]

Bill and Shirley, fellow Swaggies from Canada, 1976

MONDAY 10TH JANUARY, 1977

" Call came through at 7.0.  Got Dad and told him to buy ticket, said Mum would buy it in Edinburgh. Relief!  Had breakfast with John.  Dad called again!  Said ticket would be to Newcastle plus £25 to cover costs.  Had to disengage from blatant proposals of Bali!  Even after 6 years in Germany he still has warped view of western women. 

Went to B.A and told them good news.  Sat on bus again.  Nice co-driver Bob appeared - amusing.  Margaret came with me to see if P.T.A through.  No!  Guess who saw crossing road - Shirl and Bill!! [fellow Swaggies from bus trip]  Ran after them - big welcome.  Went to Palace Heights were they were staying and sat on terrace waiting for them with various of the patrons - nice bunch - good looking too!  Saw S & B's room - really nice and big, clean with beds, tables, phone, toilet etc for less than YMCA.  Finished their Haig with them!

Got back - walked across park in Connaught Circus - huge fountains spraying me, Indian music - all rather festive.  John took me out to Embassy Restaurant for a meal - had Tandoori Chicken - nice.  Went for drink at Imperial - "the local"!"

ALL ALONE IN DELHI - CHEERED BY OVERLAND DRIVERS & ROSY PELICAN BEER,1977

[With Nikki gone I was feeling very bereft until I met John, an overland driver, at the YMCA.  He showed great kindness taking the stranded Swaggie under his wing and introducing me to the camaraderie of overland drivers in Connaught Place.  Rosy Pelican beer helped keep up morale in the wait for a ticket and fruitless attempts to get phone calls home.]

SUNDAY 9TH JANUARY, 1977

"Nikki got up at 5.30 - had breakfast in room before left - said a sleepy goodbye.  Muggins on her own now!  Went down to breakfast.  Bali beckoned me to his table.  Introduced me to John - an overland driver, 29.  Chatted on about [Asian] Greyhound.  He's got 2 buses - been doing Overland trips for 6 years - when things were really primitive.  Invited me to drop in at bus if wanted.

Called at B.A to see if P.T.A come.  No.  Sikh asked me to come for a beer, but I didn't go.  Went and sat on John's bus in Connaught Circus (after changing rooms [in YMCA] for a single).  All Overland buses park here and all visit each other and chat.  Met some nice drivers - Margaret and Arthur (Sunshine Bus), a boozy Aussie - Dennis, who had a mini bus; Barry hash smoker, Ernie - cockney given to exaggeration.

Went back to see if any message.  Called Durham - but all away at funeral - student wouldn't accept charges, but gathered brother there this evening.  John took me out for a drink at the Imperial Hotel after supper - had Rosy Pelican beer - quiet strong and sweet.  Very pleasant.  Booked call to England for 11.45. 

Got back - couldn't get through - waited till 3.30 in morning.  Slimy attendant waited with me - offered to pay my fare home !! plus any of my expenses - warned me off John - said might leave me high and dry, wanted to know if he was my boyfriend - so I used him as excuse to refuse his attentions.  He pursued me [down corridors saying had keys to all rooms] but I was too quick for him!"

19th BIRTHDAY IN DELHI - no money, no ticket, just Spike Milligan and brother Rory to cheer me up! 1977

[It was day 10 in Delhi with the last of our money running out, a ticket for Nikki but none for me  - just another useless telex from Asian Greyhound telling me to go to the post office for the non-existent ticket (we had gone to the post office so often they had tea and chapattis waiting for us) - and it was my birthday!  The thought of Nikki flying away the next day and being left alone with no way home, brought me to the lowest ebb - so I booked an international phone call home.  It must seem extraordinary to those brought up in the age of mobiles and Internet to wonder how this could be such a major event, but this was the era when telex was the eighth wonder of the world.  My parents (coping with the aftermath of Granny's death) were not at home, but luckily I got brother Rory, who was trying to finish an essay before returning to college, and a little surprised to get a hysterical outpouring from his sister in India.  He was the hero of the hour.]

Rory piping with his daughter Lorna on Skye, 2009

SATURDAY 8TH JANUARY, 1977 - MY 19TH BIRTHDAY!

"My birthday!  Nikki got call from the Embassy saying £100 available in rupees because of irate telex from the Foreign Office, but must draw all at once and not convertible to dollars or pounds again! [So we never made trip out to Embassy]

Went to Ariana [Afghan Airways] - Nikki's P.T.A for new ticket come!  Flight Sunday morning 7.30!  No ticket for me.

Nikki went a bought me a card and I bought Spike Milligan book.  Decided to collect cases from airport.  Very upsetting to go there and not fly!  Felt miserable.

Back in afternoon to B.A - yet another telex saying Mrs Flynn [of Asian Greyhound] says go to Post Office [for ticket]!  Burst into tears!  Couldn't stop or be cheered up.  Decided to ring home.  Booked a call through - got [brother] Rory - asked him to get Dad to buy ticket in London today - urgent, no money etc - felt better for call."

BRITISH EMBASSY WASHES ITS MANICURED HANDS OF DIRTY TRAVELLERS, 1977

[Having been euphoric the day before with promises of tickets home, it turned out to be false in my case and complicated in Nikki's.  The British Embassy were as helpful as a chocolate fire-guard.  We spent precious money travelling out to the luxurious area of New Delhi where our diplomats lived to be told by a brusque officer that he would be out of sight and out of mind over the weekend, so not to bother him.  It was a day of hassle - and my last one as an eighteen year old!]

FRIDAY 7TH JANUARY, 1977

"New telegram for Nikki - she must go to Ariana [Afghan Airways] for ticket!  Went and saw a very unhelpful young bloke - ticket has to be blacklisted in Kabul before a new one issued!  My ticket not here.  Nikki decided to ring home that evening - felt better for it.

Also went to British Embassy to collect Nikki's money that father had arranged - very unhelpful - would give nothing, no money for travellers.  They would only fly people home if destitute - if there was no one at home to pay; they would disown then repatriate! [This meant having your passport revoked]  Any money leant had to be repaid before left the country!

Taxi took us to the wrong post office, so nearly had stand up fight with driver because we refused to pay full fair.  No tickets again."

DELHI DESIGNERS - we are models of Indian hippy clothes for a day! 1977

[For a day we became models and advisors for a small Delhi clothing business that was selling to the hippy market in Germany.  The best part was being invited into an ordinary family home with a view over the rooftops and given a delicious Indian lunch.  And there was good news to follow ...]

THURSDAY 16TH JANUARY, 1977

"Had breakfast [in the YMCA] with Bali, the Sikh.  Went to his room and Nikki tried on different fashions - very attractive and original designs.  Took us to his "factory" - his own family house in side streets of Delhi.  Lots of family help in the business.  Went to room at top with nice patio - great view over street below and roof tops of Delhi.  Nice white-washed walls.

Nikki tried on loads of clothes and I gave advice!  Lots had to be altered slightly - brother, cousin and designer all there too!  (I tried on nice maxi cheese-cloth dress for fun).

Afterwards we had tea on patio, then lunch below - sister-in-law made lovely meal of curd, curried cauliflower, curried tiny beans, chapatis and salad.  Then Bali directed us to B.A from his house.

No news.  Back to hotel - reading when phone went - B.A said tickets should be here tomorrow!  Nikki has money at High Commission if necessary!  Celebrated with sundaes at "Kwalitys"!

DELHI - samosas with postmen, Tamla Motown and Indian whisky to drown bad news, 1977

[Thanks to the help of the B.A staff, word was finally filtering back home that we were stranded in Delhi.  But they feared that the reason I hadn't heard from my granny was that she had died.  Worse still, they couldn't confirm if this was true.  My grandmother, Sydney Easterbrook, had gone out to India from Scotland in 1923 to marry forester Bob Gorrie, and they had lived there until the Second World War.  Granny was one of the inspirations behind my trip east.  Now like the elderly enigmatic Mrs Moore in Passage to India (another inspiration for going to India), it was possible she was dead.

So we 'attacked' the whisky to drown our sorrows ...]

WEDNESDAY 5TH JANUARY, 1977

"Happy Birthday Ank! [youngest brother Angus]  At breakfast a Sikh came to our table and asked us to model his clothes, so could guarantee right size - he sells to boutiques in Germany - we certainly meet all sorts in this place!!!

Went to B.A - nothing.  Went to GPO - they're so used to us, today we were given sweet tea and chapatis wrapped round potato samosas (potato in batter)!  Cheerful fella warmed chapatis over small electric fire!  Must be the only tourists to have done this - probably the only ones to penetrate so far!  Nice middle-aged man gave us address of Foreign P.O and told us to try there in case mail had been insured. 

Off we went in a rickshaw for miles, racing with traffic far beyond the confines of Connaught Place!  Hassled away with Indian and weren't understood very well - 2 blokes helping - said had no access unless we had registered number etc.  Discovered this wasn't foreign mail!  Went to building behind - same story.

Back to centre - cheered ourselves in record shop by listening to Tamla Motown L.P!!  Then found really good Penguin bookshop and browsed in there for a while.

Back to B.A - telex for Nikki telling her to go and check GPO!  Several for me - no reply from Granny.  They in touch finally with parents.  Dad sent cheque for ticket - then horrible news that Granny may be dead.  No confirmation - felt very upset.  Can't stop thinking of it - what can be happening at home?  To be stuck in this place because of Asian Greyhound inefficiency and to have no news from home!  Very anxious and miserable.

We attacked the bottle of whisky bought for New Year - drank half of it before supper - took mind off worries.  Went down to dining room giggling and wearing new tops.  Waiter in good mood tonight."

DELHI YMCA - witches, hair washing and Whisky Galore, 1977

[The YMCA continues to be our home as it becomes increasingly obvious that Asian Greyhound have never sent tickets for our return home - paid for the previous September.  But eccentric ballerina's, a clothes sale and Whisky Galore keep up our spirits.]

TUESDAY 4TH JANUARY, 1977

"We were joined at breakfast by one of the "witches"!! (Two bony women with scraped back black hair, pencilled eyebrows and tight-skinned, gaunt faces, who sit in garden too - Nikki calls them the witches).  She was Aussie with cultivated English accent; loved London and the Arts (!) - a ballerina also feeling "the call of India".  Runs her own company and has a theatre room in the Sydney Opera House!  Very easy to talk to but we can imagine a Prima Dona.

Into B.A - Nikki got telegram - her parents in touch with Asian Greyhound - said sent ticket on 20th Dec! (Supposed to be in Kathmandu by 14th!)  She sent another saying to buy ticket as desperate.  Went to GPO - no tickets.

Read!  Bored silly again.  Went into B.A in evening. Nothing.  (No shops open but had found chemist, so washed hair in afternoon for something to do!)  Sale still on - succumbed to temptation and tried on half of garments!  Had great time tossing clothes all over the place! (Bought 2 tops again).

Waiters in a bad mood tonight - ours was rude and refused to change a note for us, as well as ignoring us and serving us last!  Bed early - reading "Whisky Galore" now!"

STILL IN DELHI WITH NO TICKET HOME ... 1977

[Another day of fruitless searching through post office mail and waiting for telexed replies to our messages home via British Airways.  I escaped to the world of Cathy and Heathcliff ...]

MONDAY 3RD JANUARY, 1977

"Into B.A in morning - no messages.  Went to Delivery GPO - man at desk asked for intimation again but let us up this time.  Nothing came - checked American Express mail too. 

Read [Wuthering Heights] in garden most of day.  Sale on in hall [at YMCA] - had pleasant half an hour going through tops and dresses - we bought 2 small tops!

Bed early - nothing else to do."

DELHI YMCA - reading, sleeping, eating and being preyed on by the CHILDREN OF GOD, 1977

[In the sanctuary of the YMCA we slept and read and ate, waiting for news of tickets or contact with family.  Temptation came in a strange form - young wide-eyed converts to the Children of God (a cult that believed Jesus was coming within the next 20 years) who wanted us to go and stay with them.  We'd never have to worry about the next meal or running out of money again - they would look after us.  We'd heard rumours about free love and that they'd been kicked out of Kathmandu for proselytising, so politely declined.] 

SUNDAY 2ND JANUARY, 1977

"Big breakfast - cornflakes, poached eggs, toast and coffee.  Phoned B.A to see if any telex - but no reply yet.  Sat on veranda and wrote diary!  Feel better staying in nicer place and not wandering the streets of Delhi.

Sat in small garden below and had coffee.  Read all afternoon.

"Children of God" came and talked to us in lobby.  Strange but cheerful.  I still reserved opinion - don't like the St Paul approach having it [religion] rammed at me.  Theirs is a new order they say - will have nothing to do with the old - I don't agree there because rejecting too many people out of hand.  They don't believe they'll have a problem of age because Jesus is coming within the next 20 years.  Their group was thrown out of Kathmandu for open preaching; in India they are taking over Mission Schools etc.
(Subsequently had 2 more of them pushing pamphlets at us in the streets).

Supper - Indian food again, then went to bed before 9.0!"

NEW YEAR'S DAY IN DELHI - YMCA liver and jelly, and a dog-eared copy of Wuthering Heights restore morale, 1977

[It's New Year's Day and rather than wander the streets we decide to take refuge in the YMCA in the hope that money will come and we'll be able to afford it.  It comes with "a nice institutional atmosphere" (we must have been feeling low) and comfort food - liver and cabbage Indian style and milk jelly.  It's here that I read Wuthering Heights for the first time and am completely bowled over.]

SATURDAY 1ST JANUARY, 1977

"Decided to move out and spend money on room in YMCA because can't be long till money comes through.  The American said he'd gone to bed at 9.0 last night!  Said goodbye and left.

Back to B.A. - no telex from London yet.  Went to park and ate our grapefruit and some bananas.  Lay in sun - I slept while Nikki wrote to Chris.  Avoided open air cafe!  Went to YMCA and booked in double room Rs86 - between £5-£6 including breakfast.  Nice institutional atmosphere! - i.e. pretty clean, nice lobby, little balcony opposite room overlooking small courtyard with chairs and tables.

Sat and had coffee in lobby - nice American from Mrs Calaco's came in and chatted with us - he's thinking of changing rooms because the Dutchman snores so loudly (Nikki says surprised he doesn't choke himself!)  Walked into centre with him.  We went to B.A again!  No telex.  Man gave us tea in back office, talked of his New Year.  Insisted on NY kisses and hugs as we left!  Why is it that as soon as you talk they presume they can get fresh with you?!

Went and bought more throat lozenges and asprins, then bought "Wuthering Heights" [from second-hand book stall] and went and had coffee and a pattie.  On way back met JB Singh - we thought we'd avoided him so well!  Authoritatively arranged that we would meet him tomorrow at open air restaurant - though we said we might be flying out.  We said too ill and tired to go to his cousin's party tonight.  I had sore throat today too.  Finally disengaged ourselves - he thought we were still at Mrs Calaco's.

Back to hotel at 7.30.  Nikki went straight to bed.  I went down to restaurant and had lovely Indian dish - basically liver, rice and cabbage - but done up in nice sauces with strange sounding names, together with dahl (quite spicy) and sweet chutney.  Then had a milk jelly and coffee.  Restaurant was fairly empy and quiet.  Went to bed - read Wuthering Heights till just after 9 then slept till 8.45 next morning when knock on the door!"

HOGMANAY IN DELHI - dancing to Abba with Delhi's "trendy" then ending up in hash-filled doss house; 1977 begins.

[The New Year, 1977, was seen in rushing around in a Buik between posh parties in Delhi and dancing to Abba.  But Nikki was ill and all we really wanted to do was go back to Ma Calaco's doss house and our hash-smoking room-mate - an eccentric but kind Dutchman who caught mice and made us coffee!]

FRIDAY 31ST DECEMBER, 1976  - Part Three

"This party was full of the trendy young of Delhi - all in Western clothes.  Abba was playing.  Small room for dancing - Nikki and I both dancing with JB Singh.  Although it was the house of best friend Chris, he kept saying they only went to such a small party so others wouldn't say they were too grand to come - some friends!  Nobody seemed particularly ecstatic to see them!

Nikki not at all well and nearly asleep.  Kept asking them to take us home but wouldn't listen; said we had to go to another party first.  Nikki pleading with them by this time.  Stopped at really posh place - big party of about 100 people - but we sat in car while JB went into say hello.  Already Pixie telling him to look out for other girls - kept boasting that all the "trendy" people of Delhi were there - all properly invited etc.  Imagine if we'd walked into such a place with our jeans on!

Finally agree to take us home to Mrs Calaco's.  JB insisted we'd meet next day at open air garden.  Dutchman and weird Yank who'd moved out for us, were in the room - stoned on hash.  Dutchman quite amusing and cheerful though strange.  Long fair hair and long beard - made us some coffee. Fell into our dirty sleeping bags and slept."

HOGMANAY IN DELHI - from doss house to posh house! scruffy overlanders join the jet-set, 1976

[The Hogmanay search for tickets goes on - we bump into a friend from the bus trip but he's got no money left either.  Then somehow we stumble into the world of rich Sikhs and the Delhi jet-set and suddenly it's party time - in rotting jeans!]

FRIDAY 31ST DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Went back to register mail place - nice man allowed us to look through mail - nothing.  Rang up Old Delhi post office - but nothing either. 

Back to British Airways - met Ian [elderly Swaggie from bus trip] on the way!  Fell out of scooter rickshaw and rushed up to him crying and gabbling our story - so relieved to see someone we knew!  Poor Ian couldn't understand at 1st!  Couldn't help because no money left - flying out that night.  Went to B.A. - Telex back [from Asian Greyhound in Windsor] saying Mrs Flynn away till 4th Jan, but no details!  Ian and nice Brum girl came in.  Asked them what they thought of telexing home for money for 2nd ticket as B.A. suggested.  She said A.G. could easily cancel and refund 1st ticket and Ian said they must! 

Felt doubtful because Mum and Dad not on phone [on Skye for New Year], could only give Granny's address and number.  They encouraged us to go ahead - so B.A. sent off telegram.  Other alternative was to wait and see if tickets come - but money running out and if with Ariana or Iraqi - wont be flying till at least next weekend.  Felt at our wits end.  Had to cash more money - asking rickshaw man for Ivory Hotel - in fact was Imperial I meant.

Sikh came up and asked us what wanted.  Said would walk us to Imperial Hotel becuase going that way, then said cold so must have a coffee.  Doubled back to open air restaurant - lovely Xmas tinsel streamers etc gleaming in dark.  He invited us to party for New Year's Eve with Embassy people etc!  We only had jeans to wear (mine just about rotting away!)  Said it didn't matter.  Took us to Imperial - really posh - his relations ran it!  No cheque service till Monday! 

Dropped us at Mrs Calaco's to get ready.  Nice American occupying 4th bed in the room - he felt lost, wondering what people were doing for New Year's Eve.  Went to Palace Heights to see if Gary and Beryl were there [friends made in Kathmandu] but they didn't turn up - so met J.B. Singh who took us out in taxi to posh part of New Delhi - full of Embassy people.  Took us to his uncle's house - uncle is a member of Mrs Gandhi's gov! and very high up in Sikh religion - pictures of him with parliament and a painting of great religious conversion with him on elephant!  He's 86 - was out to dinner in poshest hotel in Delhi.  Cousin came down - a real character - Indian playboy grown to fat; talked all the time about his trips to Europe, his girlfriends, the jet set in Delhi - said would take us to loads of hotels and parties and have better time than at home!

He waited for his father to bring car back while JB took us to a really posh hotel  - Akbar Hotel - very modern and plush guards on the door dressed in red uniforms and medal ribbons.  Everyone in gorgeous saris and smart suits.  Sat in one of bars and drank cinzano red!  Nearly £1 for each drink - super!  Waiter dropped tray load of glasses.  Cousin (called Pixie) finally came and took us in his vast smooth car - which he drove as badly as the taxi drivers - to another party.  So spent 12.0 and beginning of 1977 in the back of this huge Buick!"

HOGMANAY IN DELHI - a ticket hunt that leads to mice at Ma Calaco's, 1976

[It's Hogmanay but Delhi is a long way from the Isle of Skye.  Nikki and I are on a search for tickets home, existing on coffee and toast and running out of money.  It's going to be a long last day of 1976 ...]

Nikki on the bus

FRIDAY 31ST DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Both woke early and checked out.  Wandered around Place, nowhere open.  Found hotel so had toast and coffee there.  Then got rickshaw to Post Restante (one of million that we got that day!) 

At P.R. bombshell hit us - no chit saying we had registered mail.  (Got letters for Di and Rob).  I asked if could check reg mail - sent to a different building.  Asked again at big school where to go - nice priestly looking men; boys playing cricket.  Found place eventually.  Asked to see reg. mail - bloke wouldn't listen because we had no chit from the post office.  Both broke down and cried!  So he relented and took us up to nice middle-aged man in charge of the mail.  Let us look through the book.  Nothing come the whole of December for either of us (although Asian Greyhound had telexed Kathmandu that Nikki's had arrived and mine on its way 2 weeks ago).

Told to come back at 4.  Decided to check p. restante under name Asian Greyhound - wouldn't let us when got there.  Decided to go to British Airways and see if booked with them.  Nice [Sikh] man very helpful, sent telex to A.G. asking for details of tickets - we don't even know the company flying with, let alone the date!  Told to come back later.

Went to Ariana [Afghan Airways] - but they'd moved.  So trailed over to new building - asked if booked with them - had no record of it.  Went to Iraqui Airways - sent upstairs (like following clues to a riddle!)  Nice man but no record of our tickets, said would telex on Monday if not arrived.

Exhausted, fell into restaurant and had coffee and omelette.  Hardly spoke felt so miserable - both on verge of tears all day.  Set off again - tried Indian Airways and Syria-Arab Airways but no luck - tickets don't seem to exist!

Decided to find accommodation.  Shirley had given us address of Mrs Calaco's, Janpath Lane.  Booked in - she turfed 2 weird blokes out [of room] and gave us their beds.  Filthy bare room, dark, with 4 beds in and nothing else.  Beds made of huge frames and canvas strapping for mattress.  Given 2 grotty sleeping bags because had nothing.  Both lay down - Nikki had sore throat and headache.

Watched mouse running over opposite bed and onto window ledge by bloke's food etc.  Both burst into tears!  Never known such despair - and on Hogmanay too!  Funny Dutchman came in and brewed up some tea - said there were loads of mice and proudly showed us a trap he had made!"

DELHI RE-VISITED - without the security blanket of the Swaggie bus - or even a sleeping bag!

[The day which started with sunrise in Kathmandu and a jolly rickshaw ride around Patna, took a decided turn for the worse when we reached Delhi that evening.  Leaving luggage at the airport, believing we would be in the city for just a night, we searched for somewhere to stay ...]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Three

"At [Delhi] airport we rush for cases, managed to leave them at left luggage, then got bus into city.  Driver suicidal - didn't slow down at roundabouts - drove on 2 wheels most of the way!  Saw us, laughed and drove even worse. 

Dropped at Connaught Place - Nikki had addrss of Palace Heights just off C.P. - up lift, found it was full!  Directed us to Jivan Lodge down the street.  Really tired and desperate for place (after 8pm).  Up loads of stairs, men staring at us from dark corridors.  Manager showed us to double room up more stairs.  Filthy room, with one old thin blanket on the beds.  About £2.50 for this hole but took it for the night. 

Music blaring from next door; bloke kept peering through glass panel that stretched along the whole of one bedroom wall.  We sat down feeling depressed - both agreed it seemed more like a brothel!  Went out and sat in State Coffee House looking thoroughly cheesed off; tried to make coffee last, dreaded going back.

When got back, we locked ourselves in and went to sleep fully dressed because had no sleeping bags with us.  Nick-named the place "the black hole of Delhi"!"

PATNA: RETURN TO INDIA - chilled beer and rickshaws but no Rolling Stones, 1976

[After the emotional farewell to Nepal, Nikki and I flew to Patna en route to Delhi.  A chilled beer, a rickshaw ride and pleasant people in Patna lulled us into a false sense of holiday.  We laughed at a mad American searching for the Rolling Stones and a cautionary tale that Swaggies had been left stranded in Delhi without tickets home ...]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Soon left the hills and below was the Plain of India.  Air hostess in sari said, 'Namaste' as we boarded.  Given nice snack and free Carlsberg beer! (chilled!)
Landed at Patna.  Met up with driver of Encounter Overland - cheerful hot-tempered Aussie.
Nice middle-aged Indian man - well travelled, amusing and very polite treated us to coffee then put us on a rickshaw and told the driver to give us a tour of Patna and drop us off for lunch then back for next flight.

Lovely day - felt on holiday as jogged through wide streets lined with trees and attractive bungalows.  Strange to be in India with no Swaggy bus in sight!  Familiar sights of men in loincloths; millions of bicycles and rickshaws pouring across traffic lights and mad drivers again.

Stopped and talked to funny American guy who'd missed the plane to Kathmandu because they had lost his luggage.  He asked our driver if the Stones were playing tonight in Patna!  He couldn't bear the idea of New Year in such a place! 

Went to bank then dropped at incredibly posh hotel - had a coffee!  Man was complaining behind me because he got cabbage and not carrots, just the limit because this morning he got orange instead of tomato juice!  What a fuss!

Back to airport - plane to leave at 2.55 - didn't leave until 4.30!  Talked with Encounter guy - he'd heard of Greyhound [Asian Greyhound] people having no tickets waiting at Delhi post restante!  Airport stood us sweet tea and gritty butties!

Air India flew us out - Indian music, bigger plane, hostesses in saris.  Gave revolting mango juice.  Landed at Lucknow then off again to Delhi.  Tiny snack and coffee."