THE HIPPY TRAIL STARTS HERE - in London on a bus going backwards! 1976

[The first day of the trip began in a sleepy London and ended with pitching tents in a dark Paris.  Not knowing a soul, I teamed up with Janice and Australian Jan for tent-mates, so I soon became known as Little Jan to differentiate between the three.  At the campsite in the Bois de Boulogne we listened open-mouthed to a Westbound group of overlanders, their numbers decimated by hepatitis, who spun us tales of horror of the trip ahead.  Their bus windows were blanked out with whitewash like some fever ship.  The memory stuck with me and I use it in my novel OVERLANDERS. www.janetmacleodtrotter.com]

SUNDAY 26TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"Up at 5.30.  Taxi driver came early - had lived in India!  Father a Methodist missionary.  Got to Venture Centre.  Little van drew up (not however our transport!)  Bus eventually came, loaded rucksacks on roof.  Bags under seats - I sat at table, facing backwards - not the best way to see things.  Bus dirty, not exactly deluxe air about it, but reminiscent of United buses so felt at home!  Tape deck broken down - hope not an omen.

Sat opposite Julie and Paul - Australian couple making way home.  London almost deserted.  Early Sunday bells at outskirts.

Crossed Dover- Calais, very calm.  Had drink in bar with Janice, a nurse.  Saw France appear from the deck.  Bought duty free wine and beer (saving Whitbread Pale Ale for the desert!)

Long drive to Paris.  Sunny.  Stopped for driver to have a kip. (Chatty fella called Geoff - likes his drink!)  Had snack on bus - not too expert at pouring water while bus moving - what will it be like on Turkish roads?!)

Sun setting as approaching Paris - traffic jams.  Finally reached Bois de Boulogne campsite (brought back memories!)  Pitched tents in dark then ate sausages.

Another Greyhound bus beside us - a month overdue!  Left Kathmandu in June - half of them left as a result of hepatitis!  They chatted and told us about their experiences - I think we're in for a rough time!  Graphic details about "the shits" and Afghans etc."

THE HIPPY TRAIL: DURHAM TO KATHMANDU - DAY ONE rucksack, rain and rail, 1976

[1976: I was 18 and relishing the lyrics to Alice Cooper's 'School's Out'.  Having spent the hot summer holiday of 76 on the Isle of Skye, I was taking 'a year out' (as Gap Years were called in those days) before going onto Edinburgh University to do Social Anthropology. Inspired by stories of my mum, Sheila Gorrie, growing up in India in the 1920/30s where my grandfather was a conservator of forests, I took the road east.  

My grandmother, Sydney Easterbrook had gone out from Edinburgh in 1923 to marry Robert Gorrie in Lahore.  She had travelled by ship; I was going by vintage Bristol bus.  Granny Sydney was part of the 'fishing fleet' - the Brits who went out to India to marry those who worked for the Raj - while I was joining the 1970s hippy trail.  It was also money that Granny had put into trust for me, that was paying the £250 fare to Kathmandu.  The day I left Durham in the North East of England, I spoke to Granny on the phone; she'd had a mild stroke earlier in the month and I'd stayed with her in Edinburgh to help out.  It was the last time we spoke.]

"SEPTEMBER, 1976.  ASIAN GREYHOUND TRIP TO KATHMANDU !!!"
SATURDAY 25TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"The usual last minute panic, quick rush down town and cramming of things into the new (carefully waterproofed!) rucksack.  Not the same sinking feeling as going off to school though!

Phone call from Mel and also rang Granny before leaving.  Said goodbye to Puss and Ted!  (Played the Garden Cottage tape of "Odds and Ends")

Durham grey and rain pouring down.  Helen, Mum, Dad, Don and Barbara all came to [the railway station] to see me off! (The trendy ones wore cagoules! - Dad wore old mack!)

Watch Cathedral and Castle disappear in drizzle and mist - market place, well loved streets etc.  Went under Crossgate Moor bridge (usually walking to school over it and watching trains rush under!)

Taxi to Radnor Walk [Chelsea, London].  Drucilla [MacLeod] gave great welcome.  Friends round for drinks.  Two been in Kathmandu - gave me address of a home in India.  Drucilla and I had lots of chat over supper.  I slept on sofa.  (Car stopped outside playing Beach Boys!)"