DEATH-DEFYING DRIVE UP SERPENTINE, AND FRISBIES IN THE SUN, YUGOSLAVIA 1976

LETTER HOME: "we climbed the Serpentine 26 hairpin bends - incredible views - hair raising to meet things on the road ... after a lot of backing (and praying) Geoff managed to clear the lorry - so near the sheer drop that looking out of the window there wasn't even a verge to see between the bus and limbo!  ... luckily we have a good driver else I would have died of nerves!  (He may be the alcoholic's guide to Kathmandu but he's a very capable driver!)"

THURSDAY 7TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part One

"Lovely morning - ate breakfast on shore.  Met Norwegian on a recuperating holiday of swimming etc.

1st stop Kotor - old walled town.  Parked by old sailing ship. Little market. Lots of little squares and winding allies.  Surfeit of ally cats!  Bought some goat's milk cheese (Paul, Julie, Jan, Rob, Mark and me).

Wound way up Serpentine - 26 bends.  Fantastic view of mountains and sea and town of Kotor.  Across basin at top and then down an even worse road.  Met a double feight lorry coming up - 3 buses, 1 lorry and car coming down.

Stopped at clearing in trees - donkey and 2 women appeared with bundles of sticks on their backs - had trouble keeping them on donkey's back, but animal completely oblivious went on eating grass.
Played with frisbies.  Really quite hot.

Through Titograd then along spectacular gorge with sheer drops down to river - very green and clear - and upwards in great white cliffs.  Jugoslavs very wreckless drivers (as if roads aren't bad enough) - apparently lots of graves along road of not too careful drivers - didn't see any."

THE ADRIATIC - STUNNING SUNSET, STARLIT SWIM, STRONG BEER, CAMP CURRY - HEAVEN! 1976

"DEAR MUM & DAD,
I'VE JUST HAD AN EVENING DIP IN THE ADRIATIC - BEAUTIFUL CALM WATER, MOUNTAINS ROUND ABOUT AND LIGHTS TWINKLING ACROSS THE BAY.  ME & SHIRL (A MIDDLE-AGED CANADIAN WOMAN, A REAL LAUGH) WERE THE ONLY ONES WHO WENT IN - SWAM AROUND LITTLE BOBBING FISHING BOATS, ONE OR TWO STARS OUT AND NO RAIN!

REALLY REFRESHING AND OUT OF THIS WORLD ATMOSPHERE - FOLLOWED BY A REALLY HOT CAMP CURRY."

WEDNESDAY 6TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely view of sunset as drove away [from Dubrovnik] - lights going on in old town; pink, violet and silver blue lights on sea - red ball of fire in sky.
(Passed a couple of accidents on road).
Lovely moon on sea, dark shapes of mountains and string of lights along shore.  (All along coast, lovely peninsulas and inlets and clustered towns on the edge of fingers of land).

Camped near Kotor Fjord.  Swam in dark just few feet from tents with Shirley.  The Adriatic!!  Really great - not as cold as Skye!  Swam around boats, looking across at far lights and ferry. 

Had a beer in the bar beside the camp - quite strong.  Walked down to see what village like - ferry attendants kicking football around - obviously cars have to wait while they finish.  Kicked it back to them, then it missed me and went shooting into pond - so swiftly left!
(Slivovic is the drink here).