LIKE DURHAM MINERS' GALA - King's Birthday: parades, bands and cocky lads! Kathmandu 1976

[This amazing day which started with a burning sunrise in the Himalayan foothills and a packed trolley ride with dead chickens and excited kids on their way to the King's Birthday celebrations, continued in Kathmandu.  Its happy crowds, banners, noisy bands and side stalls reminded me of the annual Durham Miners' Gala - and it all took my mind off those blistered feet.  What better way to finish the national holiday than with a meal at KC's?!

Heidi, Sally, KC and Di at KC's on King's birthday (King and Queen in background!)

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Three

"We finally disgorged back in Kathmandu! 
Town by post office was almost deserted; no rickshaws to be seen.  So walked into centre - great crowds on public park and lining the streets - people selling chunks of fruit on pavements.  Processions of people, especially kids parading round field and then up New Street to Durbar Square.  We we couldn't get through until finished so wandered up New Street.

Like Miners' Gala Day [in Durham] - people pouring in and the sound of bands.  These bands consisted of small drums, cymbals, pipes and flutes and strange singing.  Lots of schools in uniform marched with banners - a few managed to swing arms in time, while some cocky lads followed and mimicked.  Other groups of Nepalese carried biers with greenery all over - couldn't see what sat underneath.

We rested blistered feet (me, Nikki and Chris) in Paras Hotel, by Nepal Bank, and had omelettes for lunch.  When emerged again, streets breaking up - went back via back streets to hotel.  Heidi and Di packing for Pokhara.  Finished rum.

After shower, went to KC's for their final meal.  Had lovely tomato soup and hamburger steak with salad and roti (ie potato).  Followed by night life! (rum and lemon)  KC in good form - bought me night life; offered me and Nikki job driving a hamburger stall!  Full of new ideas and plans for saunas, bakery etc.  Fred and Jan came in - Fred still not well enough for him to go trekking."

KING OF NEPAL'S BIRTHDAY - truck loads of screaming kids: 'Hello, bye-bye, Kathmandu!' 1976

[This turned out to be a mega day - it started with a spectacular sunrise over the Himalayas and then dropping down into the Kathmandu Valley we found ourselves swept along in celebrations for the King's Birthday.  My battered overlander's shoes were not keeping pace - I was picking up blisters as well as cheerful children along the way.]

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely walk down - soon became warmer.  Little lad pointed out jungle to left.  Another kid joined us waving a palm type leaf, dressed only in grubby shirt - asked my friend if this was a friend of his and he said no firmly!  His school began at 11 but he'd set off down because his school was going into Kathmandu for the King's Birthday.

At village we saw 2 truck loads of screaming kids set off shouting, "Hello, bye-bye, Kathmandu! Kathmandu!" Truck over-brimming with them!

Walked to Bhaktapur because minibus not there - it passed us just as we entered town!  My feet and Nikki's were blistered from loose shoes coming down hill, so hobbled painfully to nearest cay shop!  (They make it with boiled milk and water in the same pan like Indians).

Through Bhaktapur - passed dead animals, potter spinning big stone wheel with a long stick.  Bought little cake things.

Caught trolley bus - whole of Nepal seemed to dash for door as soon as opened - nearly trampled in the rush!  Then there was loads of time before it left and everyone had a place so it was futile to begin with!  Don't think there's a word 'queue' in Nepalese!  Imagine the indignant looks and tutting that would receive such enthusiasm in 'respectable' Britain!

As bus progressed more and more piled on until it was almost impossible to ever get off!  Chris was complaining about rubbing shoulders with a frenchman and bottoms with a Nepalese!  He and Mark were swinging from the bars.  Pam was worried about the kid next to her with a plaster on his face in case he had chicken pox and also about the dead chicken in his mother's string bag! 

(A mother was feeding her baby on the bus even after the baby had fallen asleep!)"

SUNRISE OVER EVEREST - burning snow and sugar in the porridge, 1976

[Not even the discomfort of a cold night or sugar in the porridge could detract from the awe-inspiring sight of the sun rising over Everest and the Himalayas - and the sound of school girls singing through the dark.  Not surprisingly, this magical memory has stayed with me and influenced a scene in my novel OVERLANDERS.]

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Banging on door at 6.  No one felt like waking - pretty cold because only a few blankets and no bag. 

Staggered out and up very steep hill again (Nagarkot about 6,000ft)  View was breathtaking - mist rising out of valley - mysterious blue ridges, then dark blue ranges of the Himalayas, nearer ones snow-capped, waiting for sun to rise - great feeling of expectancy.  Gradually deep pink light began to seep into valley and catch the peaks - snow really burning in dawn light.  Then sun rose to the left of them all - brilliant orange light.  Saw Everest's blue peak clearly - little orange cloud above it.
Group of girls chanting down the road - lovely sound.

Down hill again for breakfast.  They put sugar in the porridge and the coffee!  Not my lucky day!

Set off 8.30 down to Karapati again - met a little guide (in his pyjamas!) - thought Pam woul know an Aussie girl that he had the passport photo of, because she came from Oz!  He pattered along beside me - english quite good, 11 years old.  I gave him my passport photo (spare copy) and wrote my address for him - he looked at picture and said "very good" with a grin!"









Girls singing in the sunrise, Nagarkot, 1976

EVEREST COTTAGE - Tibetan bread, roaring fire and Eagles (Californian variety!) NAGARKOT 1976

[The strenuous puffing and panting of unfit overlanders that morning was rewarded with specacular views of the Himalayan range and Everest hidden in cloud that my Kodak Instamatic did not do justice to!  Magic surreal moment was after dark sitting by cosy fire in candlelight, eating simple meal to the strains of The Eagles, at the Everest Cottage ...]

MONDAY 27TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely view over valley and jungle to the right.  Cay stop - sat on terrace step in sun.  Reached top at about 4.  Two vans up there at viewpoint - fantastic panorama of Himalayas - from Annapurna to beyond Everest (semi-circle).

Went for coffee at nearby coffee house - all really thirsty.  Then rushed out to see sunset over mountains -lovely pink light and gorgeous blazing orange behind clouds over Kathmandu Valley with dark trees silhouetted on hill in front.

Then rushed around trying to find somewhere to sleep - eventually went down very steep hill to "Everest Cottage" - opened it up for us because no one else there.  Lit a big fire in large room with hight matted ceiling.  Candlelight in all rooms - sat round fire relaxing.

Then had Nepalese meal - plain but good fare - rice, little omelette, veg curry and dhal soup.  Finished with Tibetan bread (like stodgy pancake).  Sat round fire drinking Chris's Country Liquor.  They put on tape - Eagles.

In room with Chris and Nikki (Mark and Pam other side of partition) - wall to wall bed and nothing else!  Mouse running above our heads in the roof!"

TREKKING OVERLANDER-STYLE - jeans, wedges and an orange! 1976

[After three months of sitting on a bus and doing nothing more strenuous than sightseeing and drinking cay, a trek into the foothills of the Himalayas - however short - was a test for the average Overlander.  Standard trekking equipment - jeans (newly washed for the first time since Kabul), Afghan jacket and scuffed wedged shoes!]

MONDAY 27TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

Nagarkot, foothills of Himalayas, 1976

"Waved them [Rob, Maree and Diane] off from hotel - going to Bangkok.
Left after eleven with Chris and Nikki - meeting Mark and Pam at trolley bus.  After and few 100 yds the ropes of trolley came off the rails!
At Bhaktapur walked across vale - stopped for cay after 2 mins!  Asked way to Katipur, but man said didn't have any of it!  Over bridge saw women washing below - and through filthy streets of Bhaktapur to Durbar Square.  Had another cay stop! (lovely curd).

Then piled into minibus with milk churns crunched up against our knees; 2 lads kept swinging in and out of van door collecting fares and pushing in sacks and people on top of us!  Really good fun!

Dropped at Karapati then started walking - little boy guide joined us plus various little fellas with baskets strapped to heads.  Up rocky path - very steep straight away.  Stopped on rocks for lunch (my breakfast) of cheese, bread, tomatoes, and an orange.  Talking of cheese, Chris said look behind me and I nearly jumped 10ft to see 2 black goats peering over my shoulder!

Went on past lovely little hamlets - yellow and orange painte houses with thatched roofs, with hens and kids rushing around, little stores with nuts and grain etc., women pounding grain and sieving it; cows trying to block us off!  We were wheezing and panting all over the place!  I managed to keep up near front!"

BOXING DAY IN KATHMANDU - bicyles, buffalo steak and the blues! 1976

[Word came through that return tickets for Nikki and I were waiting at Post Restante in Delhi - this was the pre-electronic quaint old days of handwritten letters and cryptic telegrams where mail was sent to post offices in large cities to await collection.  So the next step in finding the elusive tickets was to arrange to back-track to Delhi ...]

SUNDAY 26TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Slept in!  Got up and went with Nikki to book tickets for Delhi.  Yeti Travels confirmed flight to Patna but not Delhi - our usual luck.  Back to hotel - Di still sleeping; Heidi got touch of flu but wandering up and down corridor!  Went and joined Sally and Adrian in Shangri la for pancake.

Then went into Yeti Travels again to check mail - got letter that should have received on 23rd - from family in Malvern - various rude messages tacked on end of Mum's letter! [from brother Torquil]  Met Rob there - he gave me lift back to hotel on back of bicycle - hair-raising experience!  Dodging cows, rickshaws, roundabouts - nearly thrown into gutter but didn't come off once!

Met Sally on roof (superb view over Kathmandu and surrounding hills, could see Swayambuth easily).  Went and gave jackets to little man to put dragon on.

Had drinks in Anders's room with Heidi, Bill, Shirley, an American couple en passant (French interjection!)  Then Di, me and Sally went and ate at Shangri la - buff steak and chips, then coffee at KC's - met Hans and Chris.  Then went for drinks in Gary and Beryl's room (Canadian couple that met us all over Xmas and live near Bill and Shirl in Vancouver). 

Great evening - packed at first - Chris and Nikki (went early because Chris got dizzy spell), Rob, Maree, Diane, Mark and Pam, Hans, Chris, Di, Sally, me, Anders, Heidi (left then came back!).  Had great chat with Little Chris about Skye - he climbs in Cullins - very keen - made me feel close to home.  Listened to tapes, then Gary and Rob started playing guitar - Rob played blues and Gary played bongo drum; then Gary played folk songs and lovely Philipino song.  Shirley came in because couldn't sleep.  Then got complaint about foot stomping from bloke below!  Beryl broke party up at 2.30 because of noise.  Said goodbye to Di, Rob and Maree."

CHRISTMAS IN KATHMANDU - porridge, parties, pipes! 1976

[Christmas in Kathmandu: at the start of the trip I hadn't expected to still be there for the 25th - a return plane ticket should have been waiting from Asian Greyhound.  But it was a very happy day with all the right ingredients: good food, drink and lots of friends with which to share it - and a dusk walk with a magical moment when musicians came out of the dark like a group of Biblical shepherds playing their pipes.]

SATURDAY 25TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Christmas!
When woke, Di gave me and Heidi a little Xmas stocking filled with nuts, sweets, bics and tangerines!  Got up leisurely and had breakfast with Sally and Anders, Heidi and Di at about 11.30!  Sally and Fran gave me a little bead choker and card.  Had porridge at KC's - all a bit chaotic from the night before - some suffering!

Nipped down to corner shop and bought vodka, spicy nuts and sweets for Di and Heidi and peanut butter for Sally and Fran.  Back to hotel for cocktails in Chris and Nikki's room again!  Went on till about 3.30!  Great atmosphere - chatted with guy off Contikee - trip where bus rolled - didn't get on together etc - not like Swaggies!

Went for lunch with Di and Heidi - had gorgeous mushroom and chicken roll at Shangri la served by sweet grinning waiter!  Went for evening stroll with Di round streets - lovely dusk with moon and evening star and mist settling on hills around.  Passed a little band playing drums and pipes and bells - lovely rhythmic beating in the half dark.  Streets busy still (passed shop stacked with coloured glass bangles).  Di still not better.

Met Sally and Heidi in KC's cake shop and Heidi treated us to piece of pie and coffee. 

Had a drinks party in our room with selection of spirits and nuts - Bill, Shirley, Sally, Fran, Adrian, Anders all came.  They all went off to KC's and I went down to 'Cafe de Star' where Rob and Maree prepared a fabulous dinner - we stood around having "Crispin's aperitif" ie country liquor, water and orange, until meal served.  All sat in far room at long table - Rob, Maree, Geoff, Jan (Fred ill) me, Diane, Mike, Hans, Ian, Chris, Nikki, Mark and Pam.  Really super evening - all stuffed ourselves with turkey, chicken, carrots in butter, peas, cauliflower, stuffing and roast pots, follwed by Xmas pud and white sauce, presented with flaming Cleopatra whisky on top!

By the time it came to KC's cake we were all so painfully ill that we sat there just looking at it!  No one moved for hours because couldn't face going up steps - Geoff and Jan had to stagger back with Fred's grub.  All gave Geoff his Xmas pressy - woolly waistcoat, pen, biro.  Had my bottle of Muscadet wine from Channel crossing!  (And hotel made us a punch).  Everyone in good mood, cracking jokes etc. 

Mike said farewell because off early - so I said, "Ceylon Mike!"  Eventually all lights in other part went off and waiters went to sleep on floor - so we finally broke up and crept upstairs to bed with pieces of cake!"

SUNBATHING AND SHOPPING IN FREAK STREET - life of the Overlander in Kathmandu, 1976

[Sunbathing, shopping, eating out ... No, this is not the Riviera; it's the life of the Overlander in Kathmandu!]
THURSDAY 23RD DECEMBER,1976

"Sunbathed on terrace - lovely hot sun but awful flies - felt virtuous because wrote letter and cards! Lay in sun for awhile - really hot - Little Chris had tent out (on concrete) - people made cracks about hard ground for pegs etc).

Went out later with Sally and Di to get embroidery put on skirt and jeans by this little man in tiny workshop in one of lanes between here and Durbar Square.  Then hunted round Freak Street for Nepali suits (baggy trousers and wrapover tops) and had some made up at little tailor's.

Went to Utze's again for another good meal - little boy with black fez works really hard there."

SAD FAREWELLS EASED BY COFFEE & CAKE AT KC's, Kathmandu 1976

[More Swaggie friends departing and feeling jaded after the previous heady day - there's only one remedy - back to KC's for coffee and cake!]

Swaggies eating at KC's, Thamel, Kathmandu, 1976

WEDNESDAY 22ND DECEMBER, 1976

"Went to airport to see Pam and Sue off.  Great scenes of tears as said goodbye - especially when Pam said bye to Rob, Mike, Anders ...!  Waved them away from terrace.

Washed jeans!  Moved up to Di and Heidi's room.  Tried to write letter but gave up.  Tried to find diary but gave up!  So went and had cake and coffee at KC's!

Went to Utze's quite late that evening with Di and Sally - had 4 dishes between us - lovely food - sweet and sour chop suey, rice, chicken etc.  Then had banana split - enjoyed every calorie!"

SWAYAMBHU - more photos, Kathmandu, December 1976

The walk out to Swayambhunath from Kathmandu had me reaching for my Kodak instamatic.  Here are some further photos of the rural route and the sights around the monkey temple of Swayambhu that compliment the previous post for Tuesday 21st December 1976.

SWAYAMBHU MONKEY TEMPLE - the spiritual and then the high spirits of partying Swaggies, Kathmandu 1976

[The spirit was with me in more than one sense on this day: fantastic climb to the Buddhist temples at Swayambhunath, mixing with the monks, worshippers and monkeys - then a high-spirited evening of Nepali rum and country liquor to mark the final evening of Aussie friends Pam (my room-mate) and Sue, who were heading back home.  As ever, we ended up eating at KC's]

Buddha and me at Swayambhu

TUESDAY 21ST DECEMBER, 1976

"Walked to Swayambhu with Chris and Nikki and Fran.  Coldish morning - set off through back streets the wrong way, ended up crossing mud banks and planks over river.  Lots of little people rushing around with huge baskets of earth balanced on poles across their shoulders.  Saw moving haystacks with legs rushing along underneath! - must be very strong.

Got lost among intensely cultivated fields - lovely countryside - saw boys making mud bricks; kids playing, cowpat-type things drying on walls of houses.  Walked up terracing on narrow ridges between fields and across pole over stream!  Everyone very amused at little file walking about.  At least we weren't plagued by rickshaw drivers.  "Hello, rickshaw ...!"

Decided to rest before climbed steps up to Monkey Temple - very steep!  Exhausted at top - loads of monkeys running about and whizzing down railings.  Top was crowded with little shrines - pretty filthy everywhere; spattered with white and red paint.  Saw ceremony outside shrine - people squatting, old man reading from manuscript while others poured water over flowers.

Various monks wandering round the big stupa (biggest in world) spinning prayer wheels, dressed in maroon robes, cropped hair.  Nothing doing in temple (no horns etc)  Found pie shop!  Very reasonable prices.

Wandered back across bridge and back through main way - passed loads of washing.  Got bacck and flopped on bed - went to sleep! (Shows really unfit).

Woke when Fran came in.  Sue came and said Geoff taking her out to eat instead of group farewell meal - Pam fuming - Geoff make it worse by pretending he'd done nothing wrong.  Pam calmed down.  Hans and Little Chris came in - somehow started a booze-up!  Passing round gin, rum, whisky and country liquor!  By 7.30 we were all well away - "Pissed out o' me skull" as Little Chris put it!  Don't know how we made it over to KC's!  Had great meal there - tomato soup and steak.  Managed to eat it with bit of difficulty.  Sat next to Mike who told me how he never drank anymore!

Back to room (after a "Night Life" - rum and lemon) - had great party - room packed with people.  Chris had crashed next door - locked self in, so when Hans tried to get in, we were banging and shouting and chucking things through the window - finally woke him, though he doesn't remember unlocking the door!"




Little Chris, Hans and Pam at Hotel Star party

KATHMANDU IN DECEMBER 1976 - spring rolls, Freak Street and Americans singing the Messiah!

[It's Kathmandu - spring rolls, Freak Street, braid belts, rickshaws and ....the Messiah in tuxedos?!]

MONDAY 20TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Got up and went in by rickshaw to New Road - Nepal Bank.  Driver didn't know where I meant and stopped several times - no one seemed to know where centre of town was!  9.30 got there to find not open!

Went for rip off coffee and toast in Crystal Hotel - dim lights, soft Radio 2 type music, was only one there - lots of waiters in white, all very polite.  Finally collected money so can eat again - relief because funds low.

Back to hotel (bought braid belt).  In again with Nikki to see if booked on Air India, can't find out.  Lunch in Utze with Bread and Jam (Fred and Jan) - spring roll.

People lazing on terrace at hotel.  Shared cake with Heidi at KC's.  I went into town on own again - a few back streets, then down New Road and Durbar Square (into Freak Street). Bought some cheap jewellery but on whole shops disappointing.

Early supper with Heidi, Bill and Shirley at Shangri la (lovely chicken and cashewnut) then piled into taxi and tried to get to Messiah concert at Lincoln School.  First taxi had no clue, so piled into second.  Went all over far side of Kathmandu looking for the place.  Eventually got there - Chris, Nikki and Anders already there.  Amazing to be among loads of diplomatic Brits and Yanks sitting in a school hall with choir in suits and long dresses.

Great evening, really amusing - electricity failed in middle of overture and organ wound down (we couldn't help laughing).  All men singers were painfully bad, but choir sang with gusto and the Yanks all gave them a standing ovation!

Piled into mini bus going back - absolutely chock-a-block - knees crunched up together!  Chris almost disappearing out of door.  (Di trying to engineer something between Heidi and Anders!)"

SEVEN MINUTES IN TIBET - or at least gazing at the sentry post! Tibetan border trip, 1976

[Overland drivers were a resourceful lot and often had to supplement low wages (or no wages) with side trips until they got paid.  They held the trump card - the bus itself.  The Derek referred to in the diary was Derek Amey, another driver for Asian Greyhound whose overland trip had set off a little before ours.  I signed up for his day trip to the Tibetan border - that mysterious land under Chinese control that had fascinated me since reading 'Seven Year in Tibet' by Heinrich Harrer. 

In the 1920s my mother had been a baby carried around on a makeshift carriage through the Himilayas on my grandfather Bob Gorrie's forestry work.  A family story tells that some high up British diplomat was piqued to discover that some British baby had beaten him into Tibet!

Derek Amey, who now lives in Australia, has set up a brilliant overland website covering many trips and bus companies from the 60s and 70s.  http://www.indiaoverland.biz/]


SUNDAY 19TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Up early - Derek's bus trip to Chinese border (ie Tibet).  Misty to begin with.  Lovely scenery into foothills - wooded winding gorges, green rivers; stopped at one which begins in Tibet and flows into Ganges!  Stopped at fantastic waterfall - another division between Tibet and Nepal.

Saw brown mountains of Tibet peeping between green slopes at border.  Bridge with Chinese guard in green sentry box at the other end.  Had passport stamped on Nepal side. [Kodari]

Stopped for lunch by river and hot spring baths (grotty concrete affair) - good KC's packed lunch.

Stopped at swing bridge for fools to rush across (ie I didn't!)  Grandmother, mother and happy kid - old woman with huge earrings in ears and big discs in nose.

Saw rice paper factory at side of road - mill to grind corn then muslin screens which woman used to sieve water and pulp mixture (bark pulp and ground corn) then left to dry in open air and then paper peeled off.

Lovely villages - mellow orange brick and dark thatch.  Women breast feeding by road.  Little kids carrying even littler kids!  Got back sixish.

Went to Shangri la with quite a few of the others - so service slow.  But nice when it came - shared a Tibetan dish with Di (like omelette) and also Buff Bean Curd (Buffalo meat) Nice."

BOUDHNATH, KATHMANDU - bowled over by Buddhist temple and bonny boots, 1976

SATURDAY 18TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Back in Kathmandu after lunch - at Utze Restaurant - really good, cheap Chinese food and quick service.  Then out to Stupa at Boudhnath - big solid white dome with steps up and ledge round to walk on, then layered pyramid with face on and streamers of rice-paper flags strung from top!  Extraordinary.  Like a pagoda except solid not hollow.

Saw inside fascinating Buddhist temple - walked round with mouth open - up left and right were benches with four boys chanting very quickly - then banged huge gongs and clashed cymbals - very stimulating.  Pillars with strips of material hanging down; candles being lit at the back, bowls of water; golden images behind glass cases in centre and one to side full of little Buddhas; smell of incense strong (took shoes off).  Quite amazing and bewildering place.

Bought some cloth boots - rather good. 
Tickets still not here [for return home].  Had gin and orange with Pam to celebrate her sister's engagement!  Then she, me, Fran and Sally went down for something to eat.  Went into Shangri la for meal (jam pancakes!)

Talked to American couple from another tour - hassle at border - lost 4 days because some had tried to smuggle pistachio nuts into India.  They'd had good weather.  All fascinating to compare trips.  We seem to be only group who've stuck together once in Kathmandu (we're all at the same hotel!)"

BHAKTAPUR - snake gods and feisty kings, Nepal 1976

[It was goodbye to room-mate Neva who was returning home to Australia for Christmas - we'd shared many a delicious pastry and cake along the trail and a lot of laughs.  Then our driver Geoff took us to look round the amazing medieval town of Bhaktapur - vibrant, squalid, artistic and mystical]

SATURDAY 18TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Neva woke early - very excited, smoking like mad!  We all went in convoy to airport (flap on because clothes not dry!)  Tearful partings then we all shouted rude things as she walked to the plane - "Can we have some more music please?!"

Then Geoff took us on trip to Bhaktapur - one of 3 capital cities - medieval town.  Big square with pagoda temple 15th century.  Old run down brick and wooden houses - ancient carvings - museum full of them (various Hindu and Buddhist gods and goddesses and ghosts). 

Art gallery full of rice paper paintings and wooden paintings - highly elaborate, colourful, intricate, often horrific paintings of gods - snakes with big gaping mouths etc.  Collection of paintings depicting life of Krishna; one or two modern paintings of mountains and town (good).  Old wall paintings of warrior figures - great costumes.  Several artists' impressions of Nepali kings (since 18th century) - all look the same - underneath is explanation of each one - rather interesting.  Great praise for one who repulsed British influence - worshipped as a god.

Tallest pagoda temple in Nepal was a little beyond Durbar Square in smaller square.  Very dirty and poor - dead dog covered in stones, loads of chickens, people pulling lice out of each others hair!  Saw the outside of Buddhist temple - the horse of the temple was tied up outside - statue of god and goddess by small door, so all bow when go through it; 5 small windows for Buddhas (a young boy pointed all this out to me)."

KATHMANDU - COFFEE, CAKE, KOTHAYS & FAREWELL MEAL, 1976

[As I say in a letter home: 'we all seem to have booked in at the same hotel - apparently we're the only group who've stuck together after the trip finished!  Had a farewell dinner the second night here before Neva flew away and we had speeches and jokes and presented Geoff with a drinking cup!' 
Having been replenished with badly needed funds from home I appear to have gone on an eating spree.  The letter continues: 'The street down from our hotel is full of good eating places and thanks to the money you sent me I've been trying out lovely Chinese and Tibetan foods - chicken with cashew nuts, buffalo and curd, Kothays (things in batter) etc!  Not the least attraction is KC's cake and pie shop!  They serve such huge portions of mouthmelting creations and their coffee is lovely, so we drink gallons as there wasn't much on the trip.']

FRIDAY 15TH DECEMBER, 1976

KC's great restaurant, Thamel, Kathmandu, 1976

"No one could lie in because conditioned to wakening at crack of dawn!  Had lovely hot shower.  Pam and me went to KC's for breakfast - toast and coffee!  Then met Jan at bank and so went back for more toast and coffee.  Joined people lazing on hotel balcony (ie concrete terrace where spread washing).

Not long before decided to try a KC cake - huge helpings, everything from fruit salad pie to sponge cake!  Then went in search of Yeti Travels for mail (already heard tickets not arrived from London).

Went via maze of backstreets - fruit sellers, clothes, bicycles galore, small squares, mangy dogs, smell and filth, buffalo roaming lanes; tallish brick houses with old dark carved wooden window frames and doors.

Eventually onto broad main streets and got mail - heard money come through, so relief that can live again!  Post Office with Jan - race in queue for stamps.

Gathered at hotel to discuss what giving Geoff [driver] and to order for group farewell meal.

Had meal in Star Hotel - fruit juice, steak (cold) veg (few) cake (revolting) tea (sweet)!  Apart from disappointing meal, speeches by Rob and Geoff and Fred were funny and Rob told wide-mouth frog joke (promised since Florence, Mich. Angelo campsite!)  Good atmosphere to end evening - Neva's last night."

ANNAPURNA DAWN & CONSTIPATION IN KATHMANDU - the final day on the bus, Nepal 1976

[Our final day as Swaggies/Overlanders began with a breathtaking sunrise over the Annapurna Range at Pokhara.  Then we were doing all the chores for the final time: dismantling the tents, heating up last night's leftovers, cleaning out the bus ... but not the rat!  Then is was off to Kathmandu, our final destination on the hippy trail.  Whether from nerves or excitement or strew and baked beans for breakfast, I was doubled up with constipation for this final leg of the journey and remember lying out on the seat unable to sit up listening to everyone oohing and ahhing about the view coming into Kathmandu.  I did get a look at the mountain tops though ... 

Kathmandu - a magical medieval muddle of houses and mayhem of rickshaws, bicycles and animals.  We decamped into cheap tourist hotels of the Thamel District - the Asia and The Star - and discovered the delights of KC's restaurant and cake shop!]

THURSDAY 16TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Woken at dawn, shouts from outside that view fantastic, so grabbed clothes and staggered out to see pink light on Annapurna range, behind hotel!
Really breathtaking and clear, with dark wooded foothills in front and thatched huts in foreground.  Everyone clicking away with cameras.  Peak of Machhapuchhare in centre really magical - gradually whitening then disappearing in morning cloud.

Last breakfast - stew and baked beans.  Then great clearing and washing of bus and equipment, (rat still stowed away with us!)
Left Ian at Pokhara - lake looked glass-like as drove past with fringe of mountains around.  (Nice, cheerful, quick blind boy said goodbye to us - helped at hotel until went blind - no money for operation - Neva and Julie want to help him financially if possible).

Lovely run to Kathmandu - negotiated festive archways out of Pokhara (nearly lopping picutre of queen off), had to rush to front of bus then to back to change weight and height of bus!
Lovely valleys with rounded mountains, thick with green vegetation - deciduous trees and banana trees, paddy fields, haystacks, thatched shelters in the fields; small villages, lots of cattle and hens - with good reflexes!  People carrying heavy loads attached by bands round heads, including small kids.

Climbed up pass from Pokhara valley into Kathmandu valley.  Lovely view of Himalayan range in evening sun - paddy fields set into side of hairpin bends!  Not much room for buses!

Had incredibly painful stomach pains by this time (constipated on final day!) so had to lie down the whole time.  Could hardly walk when reached Kathmandu.

Called in at Blue Star - most people felt too expensive, so drove through city to other side - narrow streets with brick and wooden houses - got stuck trying to get round corner - great hootings from rickshaws and consternation from shopkeeper whose house we were about to take away!

Dropped in street by KC's restaurant - had look at "Asia" and "Hotel Star" - latter cheaper so most piled in there (Jan at Asia waiting for Fred who'd gone to Pokhara to meet us!)  Shared room with Big Pam and Neva (on floor). 
Went to KC's for meal (stomach relieved by this time!) with Fran, Sally, Di, Heidi, Adrian, Chris and Hans.  Good meal - I had cheese jaffle (like puffed up bread) and apple pie - soon learned about excellent pie and cakes - KC's have separate cake shop across road from restaurant!"

ROAD TO POKHARA - paddy fields, purple padded jackets, and a king next to our camp, 1976

[We climbed into the Himalayan foothills of beautiful Nepal and on to Pokhara below the Annapurna Range (with our resident rat still in tow).  The village was full of soldiers because the King was in residence in his palace, while we made camp for the final time in our orange ridge-pole tents by his stunning lake.]

WEDNESDAY 15TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Mouse was trapped last night!  Rat still at large!
Stopped before hills at busy village - small shops in shacks next to newer buildings.

Into hills - beautiful tree-covered slopes and paddy fields below - lovely rivers.  Lunch stop by cay shop and small thatched houses with open verandas, supported by rough posts.  Beautiful big green river with big bridge over.  Little kid by me and "Little" Chris chatting away, then suddenly turned to us and said "Piss!" - well what could one say?!  Nice old woman serving cay - obviously the Granny of half the village - purple wrapover jacket.
German man very excited about fish in the river - had "very good speckles on" so he could see them!

Lovely gorges and hillside villages - lots of road tolls.  Small people - Mongolian and Indian faces - all wear coloured hats.

First view of Annapurna Range in distance!  High white peaks in setting sun, half the valley in shadow.
Pokhara full of soldiers and decorated archways over the road - apparently King here at the moment.  Went past his summer palace and nice village by edge of beautiful lake - lots of little restaurants.  Piled into one and had lovely cheese paratha and coffee.  Chris gave me fags for Dad - rhinos on them!

Camped in grounds of cheap hotel (army in usual place).  Walked round village with Di, Heidi, Shirl, Chris and Hans - no sign of Tibetan dancing.  Diane and Maree threatened with gun because out after curfew! 

Last putting up of tent! - I pegged!"