DREAMLIKE DUBROVNIK - VIRTIGINOUS VIEWS, OVERLANDER PHOTOS 1976

LETTER HOME:


"Highlight today was Dubrovnic - as good as I'd hoped.  No traffic is allowed inside the old city walls and so it is lovely and peaceful, masses of small allies and old houses.  We walked round the town wall, quite high up and so the views were terrific - some of the wall drops away to the sea, worth feeling a bit of vertigo!"

GORGEOUS YUGOSLAVIA - LOVELY LADS AND STICKY CAKES, and meet my friends the Overlanders, 1976

EXTRACTS FROM LETTER HOME:

"One thing that is very striking to the girls of the group is the positive hordes of gorgeous looking fellas in every town we've been to in Jugoslavia!  Why was I never told?!  (The group by the way is very much over weighted with girls - 17 to 11!  There are three couples and I'm the youngest of the group.  Everyone seems to get on well) ...

There's often a group of us who sightsee together (the card sharps at the back of the bus!)  There's a super Aussie couple, Paul and Julie, another Aussie girl Jan who is friendly with the driver's helper Fred, who suddenly appeared at Paris.  Then there's a couple of nice fellas, Rob and Mark - Rob feels a protective responsibility towards a newly released school girl! and is a real laugh, and Mark is rather exuberant and is always the first to fall over clutching a vino bottle or to dance on the tables! ...

A great feature of Jugoslavia are the fabulous little sticky cake shops!  At one town we were eating these and I smacked my lips and said how much I was enjoying it - next minute the little man had rushed away and got a glass of water!  (It's the custom to have it with the coffee).  The chocolate eclairs, Dad, are out of this world!"

More on the Overlanders novel at: http://bit.ly/bEVp5V

DALMATIAN DELIGHTS - COFFEE, CAKE AND DELICIOUS DUBROVNIK, 1976

WEDNESDAY 6TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part One

"Up early again - porridge oats for breakfast!  Lovely view out to sea - not raining!

Stopped at small town, posted pcs and had turkish coffee and lovely cakes in small cafe (Me, Rob, Jan and Sally).  I said cakes good and made slurping noises - he went away and brought us some water as a result!

Everyone singing as sun came out.  Lovely views of mountains and coastline.  Stopped by small village quayside and ate sandwiches outside of bus for first time - snotty dog took a fancy to me!

Dubrovnic was fantastic.  No traffic allowed within old city wall.  Walked around wall- very high, lots of photos.  Great view out to sea, then rain came. 

Caught unprepared - sheltered under tree (and in it!).  Then got really drenched coming down from wall.

Wandered around old city - (incredible hordes of dishy males).  Lovely red-tiled roofs, lots of cats, some keen people playing basketball in rain.  Washing strewn everywhere, some very high up on roofs.

Had coffee in front cafe outside walls - very expensive."

YUGOSLAVIA - ZADAR, THUNDER, SPLIT AND SLIVOVIC! 1976

THE RAIN AND PARTYING CONTINUES - YUGOSLAV STYLE ...

TUESDAY 5TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Grotty shower, drain flooded and muggins couldn't get hot to work.  Up at 6.0 - off in record time of 1 and a half hours.  Down Dalmatian coast, stopped at little town to shop.  Bought carrots at little market - lots of little fat women in black.

Coastline reminiscent of Scotland (Apin and brief glimpses of Loch Bracadale!)  Lovely small hamlets, peasant farming, lots of donkeys (donkey and horse pulling same rickety cart).  Lots of small trees and scrub.

Rain pelted down, thunder and lightning - had to stop while eased up.  Lots of card games (I was nearly hurled off table with the bendy roads!)  People picked at food (and drink) all day.

Stopped at Zadar.  Nice town, old streets and squares, flagged roadways and light coloured buildings.  Part of it for shipping, lots of boats.  (Lovely relief on the walls!!)  Bought booze at supermarket - beer nice.  (Lots of young people milling around - some canny looking fellas!)  Rob dropped his beer on the ground, foaming mass so beer obviously strong!

Stopped at Split.  Saw 3rd century AD (BC for thickies ie Mark) Diocletian Church.  Nice squares, stalls - grabbed by man to buy carpet - perhaps they come together.  Coffee at a little cafe with Jan, Rob, Mark, Paul and Julie.

Camped nearby - pouring rain again - always waits until the tents go up!  (Sang 'Singing in the Rain' today in bus!)  Sitting writing this in bus - Chris just announced that foamies escaping!

Evening in the bus.  Lots of Slivovic and beer.  Ann smashed again, wouldn't leave Geoff alone.  Nikki looking for Chris down the hill, commotion outside!  Man wandering around eyeing bus until all went to bed.  Nikki still insisting she wanted to go down the hill!  Hard core left were Jan, Fred, Rob, Hans, Heidi and me.  Got complaints about noise outside Mark's tent next morning - he was on cooking and so sent to bed early! 

Drank Whitbread Pale Ale!  None left for desert."

IS THIS YUGOSLAVIA OR SCOTLAND? - STUNNING SCENERY, FRIENDLY FOLK AND RAIN, 1976

IN A LETTER HOME: "I've really fallen in love with Jugoslavia, although the rain has been following us relentlessly until today!  It's getting beyond a joke, as soon as we stop to pith the tents, or step out to see the sights, it pelts down.  We've taken to singing 'Singing in the Rain' in the bus and other such optimistic songs! ... The coastline all the way down is reminiscent of Scotland and every now and then I see glimpses of Loch Bracadale and the Outer Isles!  The only difference is the very white rocky slopes of the hills and the little towns - all clustered at the end of peninsulas, lots of re-tiled roofs built in higgledy-piggledy fashion."

MONDAY 14TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Early up!  Made for Jugoslavian border.  Lot of people began to feel rough as journey went on!

At border, exchange lady could have shot us all happily - not too friendly.  Stopped at Ckricvenica for a coffee and shop - horrible coffee, nice friendly people though.  Walked out to small pier - clouding over again.

Coastline beautiful though, lots of inlets, steep chalk terraced slopes, roads winding round them.  Picturesque villages and fairly industrialised ports - a few ships.  People very curious of Swagman!

Made way to campsite.  Near sea, nicely situated among trees, good facilities.  Seemed deserted apart from us.  Someone (Chris) found dead green snake!  Sat in bus talking about films.  Early bed for a change.  It poured at night of course."

DEATHLY WET IN VENICE - BUT SWAGGIES LOVE OF PARTYING NOT DAMPENED, 1976

LETTER HOME REMARKS: "The day had been full of sight seeing in Venice  ... we got caught in the alleyways of Venice in a real torrential downpour because we couldn't decide where to go!  It was a bit miserable wandering around, soaking wet jeans flapping around our ankles.  Still it's a really fascinating city - (was rather surprised to see Dirk Bogarde lurking around the Rialto Bridge, but no doubt it added to the atmosphere!)" [As a family, we had gone to see Death in Venice just before I went away; my Dad and brother Rory had hammed up the parts of Dirk Bogarde and the youth with which he's infatuated]

SUNDAY 3RD OCTOBER, 1976

"Into Venice for sight-seeing.  Boat to Rialto Bridge, wandered around very narrow winding streets and over small canals.  Rain began again!  St Mark's Square - quick look in church, but mass was being said - tourists very noisy all around. 

Went to Doge's Palace with Heidi [from Germany] and Frances [from London] - great rooms heavily gilded and decorated, impressive parliament room.  Over Bridge of Sighs and round prison - graffiti on ledges, very dark.

Decided to look for pizza - easier said than done!  Couldn't find cheap pizzas, only lots of restaurants.  Rain was pissing down by this time - got drenched and more hungry!  Eventually dashed out of rain - lousy pizzas!(pleasant wine).  Made way back to Rialto Bridge, and up river again.  Frances bought a leather pouch and then bartered for belt to go with it just before bus left.

Barbecue in bar - lovely chicken and salad (which had to be eaten indoors because of the rain!) Lots of wine - some came back from getting left behind at 84th birthday party in a bar.  Very rowdy night, people on tables, under tables!  I got wine spilt all down my back.  (Paul and Mark singing and dancing on tables).  Ended up in bus.  Ann collapsed, Mark collapsed - scars all over.  Fred turfed us off bus - wine not finished.  Escorted home again.  When Ann was carried into cabin, a sleepy befuddled Neva asked who it was.  On being told it was Ann, she made the classic remark, "but there's no Ann on this trip"!!

(T-shirts for Swagman handed out - mine was out of shape because Fred had worn it first thinking it was his - then it got spattered in wine later on!)"