FATEHPUR SIKRI, INDIA - giant chess, murderous elephants, perfect pink palace, 1976

[After doing pujah with the early morning farmers, we headed to fabulous Fatehpur Sikri.  I found it a peaceful place of good vibes - though it can't have been all sweetness and light at the court of the great Mughal Emperor Akbar where female slaves were used as chess pawns and transgressors were done to death by stamping elephants.  In 1976 though, we found only a brilliant guide and tranquil musicians.]

THURSDAY 9TH EDECEMBER,1976 - Part Two

"First stop was the deserted pink city of Akbar the Great's at Fatehpur Sikri; built because he was promised a son there by a wise man and it was granted him. (Had 3 wives but no son by the age of 30.  2 Hindu wives and 1 Moslem wife from Istanbul who had her own tiny palace - hollow underneath to that cooler in summer).

Had a good guide round the palace.  Super place - only lived in for 14 years before the water supply dried up.  Really peaceful, happy atmosphere.  All sandstone again.

Saw: camel stalls, horse stables, a chief minister's house (Akbar had 9), a 5 storey pagoda-style summer house for the women - different style pillars with storeys tapering away; the top was where the Emperor sat with his wives.  Could see the tomb of the Elephant down below, outside the city (spiky tower).

Saw courtyard with chess board marked out - king and queen sat on pedestal in the middle and the king played with the pawns i.e. the slave girls!

Also saw the house where he reputedly played hide and seek with 3000 "unofficial queens" as the guide put it!

Shown the public audience chamber that overlooked garden where elephant was tied up and stamped people to death (no hanging).  Private audience chamber of Akbar - 4 gangways overhead converging on central round balcony where he sat on the throne and talked with his ministers (who were at each corner).

Also saw dining room and Akbar's bedroom with huge raised stone bed.  Balcony where he sat and overlooked ornamental pond where people sat round and listened to musicians in middle of the pond.  Lastly saw round Hindu ladies (queens') summer and winter palaces.

Then went and had a look at the mosque part with white mausoleum to the wise man who prophecied Akbar's son.  Big courtyard with trees in middle with people selling flowers and cloth underneath.  3 musicians sitting on marble flagstones in front of mausoleum - drummer, singer and pianist.  Inside was an ornate screen with a tomb covered in cloths (Moslem custom).

We each tied a coloured string round the marble frame and made a wish - our guide promised it was infalable!"



White mausoleum of wise man, Fatehpur Sikri