METEORA, GREECE - BEESWAX CANDLES, SHY ORPHANS, VOTIVE CORN ON THE COB, 1976

SUNDAY 10TH OCTOBER, 1976

"No after effects [of Ouzo] at all!
Headed down coast - dropped off 6 at a campsite [Platamon] - not coming to Athens - Paul, Julie, Mark, Pam, Neva and Sally.  A lot more room and quiet!  They wrote rude messages on bus as we left.

Made inland - detour to trip.  Suddenly left plain and huge rocks and cliffs appeared - very dramatic scenery.  Convents perched really high up on these cliffs, amazing sight [Monasteria of Meteora].  Climbed up road and stopped at Convent of St Stephen - had a look round - not allowed in unless wearing a dress and arms covered.  Let in across drawbridge - nuns almost totally covered in black.  Small courtyard inside - orphanage made up one side - no signs of kids until just leaving, then little faces appeared from a window.  View out over small town at foot of cliff-face and hazy blue horizon of plain - quite hot.

Small chapel - seats like monks at Durham, with small ledge so when dozed off seat collapses.  Very ornate icons, beeswax candles, incense etc.

(Before reaching here we stooped at a spring - very touristy, stalls selling corn on the cob, nuts, sticky sweets as well as religious emblems and bags and Davy Crocket hats.  Little chapel at other side, across suspension bridge, priest doing baptisms - very noisy and chaotic, walked round reciting while mother and baby follow, then slams down book and slaps wet cloths on the yelling baby.  Another fellow rushed in, stood at the lecturn and recited too, tourists milling in and out all the time).

Fred hung corn on the cob above table [on bus] - health hazard with flies.

Stopped and camped by sea again - Stylis.  We cooked another fantastic meal - my elaborately prepared custard was revoltingly runny!

That evening 3 Greeks bought us some beer at the nearby bar and ended up paying for all beer that evening!  They kept chucking the empties under the table and ordering more!  (Spent about £6 worth)  By the end (after a million 'vivas!') everyone was calling each other philo and phili!"


"remains of deadly corn on the cob - property of Fred and Jan"

METHONI, GREECE - SWIMMING, DANCING, 'SMASHED' 1976

On cooking duty in Greece - went over budget and overboard with the garlic and sustained a blister courtesy of the bubbling Smash (does anyone else remember that distinctive industrial taste of powdered mashed potato?)  Had my first and last encounter with the mind bending substance Ouzo - now I understand the warning: beware of Greeks bearing gifts ... 

SATURDAY 9TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Left early for Greek border.  I was doing cooking with Nikki and Chris.  Stopped at small town to shop - lots of sign language in the market (all 4 stalls!).  Overspent money.  Crossed border making butties!  Beer at border a rip-off.

Made for east coast, camped in afternoon at Methoni fishing village.  All went down to the beach (tents a stone's throw away from sea), swam in the Aegean Sea! - very slimy and shallow!

Prepared meal with frisbies flying everywhere - got one in the back of the neck!  Fantastic spicy, garlic etc stew (La stew as opposed to Le Stew.  Drew up stupid menu - wide-mouthed frog and caterpiller pie, les afters, tic tac a la Robert etc!)  The smash (vocanic) spat at me and burnt finger - gorgeous blister.

Then all went down to nearest bar - some people been there since very early.  Tested out ouzo - only drank half bottle (too many).  Other Greeks there playing instruments - so some got up and did Greek dancing with them - Shirley being one of course.  Adrian keeled over - took 4 of us to get him to tent where spewed up.

Other group - 2 Scouse, I Irish and girl who is getting lift to Athens with us.  I thought I was OK but got to bus and memory is a complete blank!  Apparently I was feeling awful, hanging out of bus window and sounding upset.  Remember heading for sea at one point and sitting there - Rob came and rescued me, got things out of bus and found my tent.  After that I escaped again and headed for bus because heard music playing.  Apparently nearly murdered tape deck and shouted obscenities at Fred and Jan about the noise - vague recollection - Fred said that's last time I get to choose music!"

CAKOR PASS IN JUGOSLAVIA - DIZZYING DROPS, PINK SHEEP AND ROUGH RED WINE, 1976

"Heavy due and mist.  Kids all going to school past camp.  Fantastic views up steep mountain sides.  Very deep valleys, heavily wooded with incredibly perched farms and vertical fields - people tending herds by side of road, lots of carts and donkeys.  Very narrow dusty road, dropping away on my side of the bus in sheer drops!  Kept meeting other buses, looked out of window, so close to edge that couldn't see road at all!

Eventually at top of Cakor Pass, had black coffee and door-stop goat's cheese sandwich.  Then down hairpin bends again to 13th century Byzantine Church.  Peaceful convent beside - two rather formidable ladies in black wouldn't let people in with t-shirts unless covered up bare arms.  Lovely paintings on walls inside - four different churches all together (originally centre for Serbian bishops).

Walked around Pec - not interesting town, but people very friendly and bought fantastic chocolate eclair at sticky cake shop!  Poverty very noticeable; lots of women dressed in Turkish style baggy trousers and white headdresses; men in white caps.

People always waving as bus passes; noticeably more Arabic in features than northern Jugoslavs.  Countryside flatter here, the odd mosque in the distance, pink sheep by wayside, lots of people just sitting around by side of road, many houses seem only half built.

Stopped for lunch by few houses, kids appeared from nowhere when we began playing with frisbies - lovely little boy got very excited about the game.  Great send off.  Unfortunately had to return to hunt for Rob's lighter, but not found.  Paul opened bottle of rough red wine about 4.0!  Few of us had some - felt good on half a cup full!  Ate nuts and grapes with it.  (Nobody is allowed to sleep at the back; the new rule is to shout and nudge anyone who tries to fall asleep - mustn't miss the view or show that had a heavy night before!)

Camping at Skopje - bar and doughnuts just opposite tents!  Little attendant wandering round counting us - even in showers - didn't get away with 23 people!

MONTENEGRO - CHARLES BRONSON AND THE COMFY CUSHION, 1976

[It's a measure of the rough comfort of life on the road that I got excited about big comfy seats in a bar in Montenegro ...]


Mountains and lakes before Titograd with view of Albania in the distance!



THURSDAY 7TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Through Montenegro countryside - big thickly wooded hills, green fields, quite poor looking houses.  Again gaping curiosity, but waves too.

Made camp early evening at Ivangrad by the hotel.  Lots of children and voices sing out of the dark now and again.

After supper went to hotel bar - fantastic big seats (Paul, Julie, me, Chris, Nikki, Pam, Neva).  Went down to disco (band playing mostly Greek type music).  Joined by Mark, Rob, Diana, Frances.  Other Jugoslavs latched onto our table.  Never seen so many males.  Charles Bronson looking one asked me to dance (and more besides although he only spoke German!)  Other fat man joined in with belly dance.  To avoid hassle, went and sat down again and pretended was married to Adrian!

One thought Paul wanted to dance with him when told him to move along!  By this time they were getting aggressive - one smashed, accused Frances of stealing his gold chain - (didn't have enough to pay for his drinks).  A bit of hassle with people shouting and conferring.  Paul threatened him with police.  He followed us back, so Fred and Rob took him back to proprietor and with threat of police he left.  We all repaired to the bus for a coffee.  Long chat with Rob - friendly advice, nice to have someone to trust."
River Moraca gorge, beyond Titograd

LAST GULPERS FOR NORTH EAST VETERANS, SOUTH SHIELDS, 17 MARCH 2010

RUSSIAN CONVOY CLUB - FINAL "CHRISTMAS" LUNCH AT SOUTH SHIELDS  - IN MARCH!

The veterans of the North East of England branch of the Russian Convoy Club held a belated Christmas knees-up at South Shields Seamen's Mission, as the venue had been closed during December.  It was a cheerful (as always) but poignant occasion, as the branch has decided to disband - there are too few men left attending regular meetings to keep it going.

It was well organised by old salt, Bob Roberston and his wife of 67 years, Audrey.  There was a turn out of 14 comrades and just as many wives, widows and family members - including my brother Torquil and myself - to enjoy the delicious three course lunch.  Wine, beer and tots of rum were flowing - "Gulpers not sippers!" as my neighbour toasted cheerily.

Our dad, Norman MacLeod, who was on 5 convoys (on The Marne) across the Arctic to Murmansk and Archangel to supply the Soviets during the Second World War, was a regular attender at the Christmas bashes, enjoying the convivial company and the sing-song of old hits.  He loved his time at sea - he was in his early twenties and it was a huge adventure - and he made light of the constant dangers.  He would tell with delight that the only time he was injured during the war was in a bar brawl in Wallsend coming to the defence of some marines against Polish sailors - he ended up in the RVI with stitches in his head.  Still, he must have been impressed with the Geordies, because Scottish Norman returned in 1950 and settled in Durham as a teacher.

Dad's roll call of action included the evacuation of Crete, the relief of Malta, the Dieppe raids and the North Africa landings.  But in later life it was the lads on the Russian convoys that he met up with again in the North East of England and enjoyed many a reminisce over many a tot.

The North East group plan a final get-together in November - before that particular branch 'passes over the bar' - I hope I can be there to raise a glass on Dad's behalf for a last gulpers.

[You can read more stories about Norman in my childhood memoir, Beatles & Chiefs hhtp://bit.ly/80tTM2]

DEATH-DEFYING DRIVE UP SERPENTINE, AND FRISBIES IN THE SUN, YUGOSLAVIA 1976

LETTER HOME: "we climbed the Serpentine 26 hairpin bends - incredible views - hair raising to meet things on the road ... after a lot of backing (and praying) Geoff managed to clear the lorry - so near the sheer drop that looking out of the window there wasn't even a verge to see between the bus and limbo!  ... luckily we have a good driver else I would have died of nerves!  (He may be the alcoholic's guide to Kathmandu but he's a very capable driver!)"

THURSDAY 7TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part One

"Lovely morning - ate breakfast on shore.  Met Norwegian on a recuperating holiday of swimming etc.

1st stop Kotor - old walled town.  Parked by old sailing ship. Little market. Lots of little squares and winding allies.  Surfeit of ally cats!  Bought some goat's milk cheese (Paul, Julie, Jan, Rob, Mark and me).

Wound way up Serpentine - 26 bends.  Fantastic view of mountains and sea and town of Kotor.  Across basin at top and then down an even worse road.  Met a double feight lorry coming up - 3 buses, 1 lorry and car coming down.

Stopped at clearing in trees - donkey and 2 women appeared with bundles of sticks on their backs - had trouble keeping them on donkey's back, but animal completely oblivious went on eating grass.
Played with frisbies.  Really quite hot.

Through Titograd then along spectacular gorge with sheer drops down to river - very green and clear - and upwards in great white cliffs.  Jugoslavs very wreckless drivers (as if roads aren't bad enough) - apparently lots of graves along road of not too careful drivers - didn't see any."

THE ADRIATIC - STUNNING SUNSET, STARLIT SWIM, STRONG BEER, CAMP CURRY - HEAVEN! 1976

"DEAR MUM & DAD,
I'VE JUST HAD AN EVENING DIP IN THE ADRIATIC - BEAUTIFUL CALM WATER, MOUNTAINS ROUND ABOUT AND LIGHTS TWINKLING ACROSS THE BAY.  ME & SHIRL (A MIDDLE-AGED CANADIAN WOMAN, A REAL LAUGH) WERE THE ONLY ONES WHO WENT IN - SWAM AROUND LITTLE BOBBING FISHING BOATS, ONE OR TWO STARS OUT AND NO RAIN!

REALLY REFRESHING AND OUT OF THIS WORLD ATMOSPHERE - FOLLOWED BY A REALLY HOT CAMP CURRY."

WEDNESDAY 6TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely view of sunset as drove away [from Dubrovnik] - lights going on in old town; pink, violet and silver blue lights on sea - red ball of fire in sky.
(Passed a couple of accidents on road).
Lovely moon on sea, dark shapes of mountains and string of lights along shore.  (All along coast, lovely peninsulas and inlets and clustered towns on the edge of fingers of land).

Camped near Kotor Fjord.  Swam in dark just few feet from tents with Shirley.  The Adriatic!!  Really great - not as cold as Skye!  Swam around boats, looking across at far lights and ferry. 

Had a beer in the bar beside the camp - quite strong.  Walked down to see what village like - ferry attendants kicking football around - obviously cars have to wait while they finish.  Kicked it back to them, then it missed me and went shooting into pond - so swiftly left!
(Slivovic is the drink here).