Jan MacLeod Trotter

A NEW BLOG FOR A NEW YEAR!

2012-01-16T04:28:00.000-08:00

Just to let you know that I have set up a new blog with more information about books, my research and publishing related themes.

Please go to: janetmacleodtrotter.wordpress.com

SWOON WITH BOON! A romantic evening in Stockton planned for November

2011-10-31T09:47:00.000-07:00

Girls Night In Author Panel - Michelle Styles on far right

Fellow romance writer and member of the Romantic Novelists Association, Michelle Styles, is gearing up for a night of pampering and romantic fiction at Stockton Library later in November. Our Northumberland group of the RNA have done similar 'Girls Night In' evenings around the region, so this will be fun. Anyone within travelling distance of Stockton, Teesside, should put it in the diary:

Sara Craven & Michelle Styles: Swoon with Boon

Stockton Central Library: Tuesday 22 November, 6.30pm
Sara Craven lives in Somerset and when she is not writing, likes to travel and go to the theatre. Michelle Styles was born in San Francisco, but currently lives in Northumberland. Join us for a girly evening with nibbles, chocolate and sparkling drinks. Be pampered, have a free beauty or alternative therapy treatment. Plus a free goody bag for everyone. Admission: £6 (booking essential). For more details and to book contact Stockton Tourist Information Centre on 01642 528130.

Austen and Dickens among WBN 2012 picks | The Bookseller

2011-10-27T11:38:00.000-07:00

Looking at the list - Rebecca and The Vanishing Act of Esme Lennox jumped out as a couple of favourite reads ...

Austen and Dickens among WBN 2012 picks | The Bookseller

Amazon launches French Kindle store | The Bookseller

2011-10-07T09:54:00.000-07:00

Interesting development - a new 'sister' in the Amazon family - or should that be 'nouvelle soeur'?!

Amazon launches French Kindle store The Bookseller

TURN YOUR POETRY INTO CLASSROOMS FOR TANZANIAN GIRLS!

2011-10-03T11:37:00.000-07:00

ENTER THIS POETRY COMPETITION AND YOU WILL BE HELPING BUILD A SCHOOL IN TANZANIA - AND YOU MAY WIN SOME MONEY TOO! Here are the details:

Deadline: 15 November 2011

First Prize £125, Second Prize £75 3rd Prize £50 , 5 runner ups

SUMMARY This competition will be judged by Kathleen Kenny a well known writer and teacher in the North East of England. The entry fee is £4 per poem, £10 for 4 poems. Poems on any subject and any style. No entry form required. Entry by email or post.

All information about rules and dates on the website www.jitegemeeproject.org. Help build a school in Tanzania, East Africa. All money from this competition goes toward buying building materials.

The prize giving will be on 12 December, 7 pm at the Lit & Phil Library, Newcastle upon Tyne, Westgate Road.
Anyone aged 17 and over can enter.

Google e-books UK launch "imminent" | The Bookseller

2011-10-03T04:13:00.000-07:00

Interesting news about Google bringing its ebooks to the UK market. The big challenge must be that Google ebooks can't be read on Kindle ...

Google e-books UK launch "imminent" | The Bookseller

HOW TO ENJOY THIS FANTASTIC WEATHER!

2011-09-29T07:53:00.000-07:00

READ.......................................

READ........................................

READ.......................................!!!!!!!!!!!

Notts libraries to charge for e-book loans | The Bookseller

2011-09-29T06:17:00.000-07:00

A interesting development - the first UK libraries to decide to charge for loaning ebooks are in Notthinghamshire. Should ebook lending be free like print book lending? Are ebook readers being penalised for wanting their content digitally? What about those who want to read their library books on ereaders so they can enlarge the print, or borrow them remotely if they are housebound? I'd be interested to hear what people think.
Notts libraries to charge for e-book loans The Bookseller

Amazon Fires up new Kindle | The Bookseller

2011-09-27T09:17:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow (Wed 28 Oct) Amazon are stoking up the ebook market by unveiling their new style reader in New York - the Kindle Fire. It's hoting up out there! Amazon Fires up new Kindle The Bookseller

Courses and Events - Newcastle Centre for the Literary Arts - Newcastle University

2011-09-27T09:07:00.000-07:00

Poet Paul Muldoon is leading the celebration of Elizabeth Bishop's work, this Thursday at Newcastle University. It includes a film made by Linda Anderson after a recent trip to Great Village, Nova Scotia, where Bishop lived. Tickets £6/£4
Courses and Events - Newcastle Centre for the Literary Arts - Newcastle University

Bookseller Group launches book marketing widget | The Bookseller

2011-09-26T05:03:00.000-07:00

Bookseller Group launches book marketing widget The Bookseller

PAINTING THE TOON - GEORDIE BOOK LAUNCH

2011-09-25T04:53:00.000-07:00

Newcastle artist John Coatsworth discovered his unique style of 'curvation' when doing sketches of St James's Park, home to Newcastle United.
He went on to paint the Toon - bridges, streets, backlanes and famous landmarks along the Tyne such as The Sage Gateshead - in his vibrant colourful 'bendy' style.

Discovery Museum have an exhibition of his work showing until January 2012 and have launched a book (published by Northumbria Press) to celebrate John's work.
Welcomed by museum manager Hazel Edwards, the launch was held in the fabulous wood-panelled hall with its art nouveau tiles that was once the headquarters of the Co-op and is now a great venue for Discovery's events.

Paying an affectionate and humourous tribute to John's lifetime of achievement was my brother Torquil MacLeod who has known him since they worked on the Evening Chronicle together many years ago.

John Grundy then gave an enthusiastic appraisal of John's work and urged us to go buy his book!
Some of John's paintings are also for sale and there are a range of gifts (mugs, magnets etc) which would make great stocking fillers (not that I'm going to mention the C word!)
The exhibition is well worth a visit. http://www.twmuseums.org.uk/discovery

Blandford Square
Newcastle Upon Tyne NE1 4
0191 232 6789

Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 2pm-5pm

AUTHORS, AMPUTATIONS & AUDIOBOO IN LOVELY EDINBURGH!

2011-09-19T08:08:00.000-07:00

On Saturday I attended the Society of Authors in Scotland Conference (http://www.societyofauthors.org/) on the brave new world of e-books, social media, self promotion and the road ahead in publishing - billed as Information and Inspiration: everything a writer needs. Phew!

It was a wham-bam action-packed day with a host of good speakers and panels, specialist group options in the afternoon and plenty of coffee breaks to keep us wired up. Held in a modern annex of the superb Palladian Royal College of Surgeons (just down from Clerk Street where I lived as a student - how was it possible that I hardly gave it a glance for 4 years? Perhaps because it didn't serve pints of Belhaven...)

At lunchtime there was an option of a quick guided tour by charming Prof Dugald Gardner, who introduced us to the work of surgeon-artist Charles Bell. Fascinating portraits of gunshot wounds from the Napoleonic Wars and specimens in jars that made me wish I'd woolfed down fewer sandwiches ten minutes earlier.

I went because I have girded my digital loins and entered the arena of ebook publishing. I think I'm what Keith Charters of Strident Publishing is what you'd call 'an early adopter' on the bell curve of e-publishing - my Jarrow Trilogy are numbers 1,2 and 3 on the Kindle Family Saga bestsellers. So what did I learn?

From Sara Sheridan's (http://www.sarasheridan.com/) talk on Harnessing Traditional Media:
TV and radio opportunities are on the rise - you can get hold of any BBC producer etc by emailing 1stname.2ndname@bbc.co.uk
Reviews from traditional print media are still valuable to quote on covers even if they don't drive sales; many will now take digital copies to review and this also saves print copies being nicked in the mail room!
Have different pitches for your new book - there may be an interesting sub plot as well as the main subject, a special place or area of expertise (in her novel about a 19th century adventurer in China and India, she discovered readers were also interested in the sub plot about tea).
You are selling yourself as well as your book - so have 'branding wheels' for both. (No these are not instruments taken out of the Surgeon's Hall museum, but marketing tools). To be enlightened go to Sara's article on Turning the Next Page, at http://www.nawe.co.uk/

Allan Guthrie's (http://www.allanguthrie.co.uk/) talk on Embracing Digital:
Both an author and agent, Allan experimented last year with putting out a new crime novella as an ebook, as his publisher wasn't going to launch the paperback for another 3 years! He put it out on Amazon and via Smashwords and sat back and waited. First 2 months - no sales. Next month - count them on one hand. So he decided to do some promotion by joining online forums. From the single sales in December he went to a peak (on Amazon.co.uk) of 9000 in Feb! Then things started happening on the Amazon.com - sales of 4000 in March, peaking at 8000 in May. He then brought out a backlist title with no promotion, but it has sold 10,000 so far on the back of the novella. As he points out, these are outselling all of his print copies 'by miles.'
If you are doing it yourself, Allan recommends Open Office rather than Microsoft, as the latter can produce formatting problems when being converted into epubs etc., and says that a good cover designer can be hired for about $100 (mostly in the US)

Nicola Morgan's (http://www.nicolamorgan.com/) talk on Publicity; building an online platform:
Children's author Nicola is an enthusiastic user of blogging and twitter (she has self-published a book called Twitter Right, which she was promoting) and has boundless energy! Her advice:

Blog 3 times a week (ouch I'm such a laggard), keep your voice consistent, link to other blogs and leave comments on other sites. Blog about your area of expertise, publishing advice, hobby or skill, of an aspect of your life (eg Wife in the North). If you can't keep up a personal blog then join a collaborative one with like-minded authors (eg The History Girls).
Use varied media on your blog - she was trying out Audioboo for the first time. You make short audio recordings, load them up to Audioboo and add them to your blog. http://www.audioboo.com/
Google loves links that include 'big names' such as the Beeb or a big corporation. She started blogging when angry with Sainsbury's for their so-called book promotion which she couldn't find in her local store. Now she's helping them with their strategy!
And above all TWITTER says Nicola. Through Twitter you can drive followers to other aspects of your work, your blog or website - and it can be fun!

Other tips of the day:
Colin Fraser of Anon Poetry (http://www.anonpoetry.co.uk/) and social media consultant - advocates Twitter to amass a following prior to a book festival or launch, eg join in ElevensesTime on Twitter because people who like coffee and chat often like books!

Keith Charters (http://www.stridentpublishing.co.uk/) predicted that marketing would become even more important - increased marketing would have to be done when the ebook world becomes more crowded. It might be possible to upsell paperbacks by bundling them with ebook versions at a discounted price.
Look at http://www.distrify.com/ as a possible add on - it's largely for film promotion at the moment.

Agent Jenny Brown (http://www.jennybrownassociates.com/) said this was a scary yet exciting time for authors with new possible routes to publication opening up. On dealing with contracts she advised clauses that limit publishers' rights on ebooks - eg have a scale for royalties that increases after x number of sales, or limit the licence period to 18-24 months. (The industry norm at the moment appears to be 25% royalty for digital.)
She is delighted that her 18 year-old son has finally taken up reading since being given a Kindle for his brithday - one signed on the back by Jo Nesbo!

Marion Sinclair of Publishing Scotland (http://www.publishingscotland.co.uk/) predicted that niche books and publishers will survive and were doing well in Scotland.

Vanessa Roberston of Fidra Books and the Edinburgh Bookshop (http://www.edinburghbookshop.com/) - she likes to hand-sell 'something different' and prefers that authors patronise her shop if they are asking for their new book to be read and stocked! Be friendly but not too pushy - she's a busy woman - and remember that booksellers tell each other recommendations but also pass on warnings about the awkward authors.

Katrine from The Scottish Book Trust (http://www.scottishbooktrust.com/) encouraged authors to contact them if they wished to go on their list of people prepared to do events - and make yourselves known at festivals etc so that the Trust know you exist!

Andrew Dixon from Creative Scotland (http://www.creativescotland.com/) - formerly working in Newcastle/Gateshead with projects such as The Sage and The Baltic - waxed enthusiastic about the special quality of the arts in Scotland - there are 40 literature festivals alone - and felt Scots should shout about their talent more (that's a gobby former Geordie for you!). He wanted writers to get involved in their project on Arts and older people, and said the Wigtown Book Festival had attracted great publicity by having a 'hermit in residence' this year. (http://www.wigtownbookfestival.com/)

Summing up ... well unfortunately I had to rush for a bus to Berwick and then train back to Morpeth so had to miss the final summing up - and the drinks reception in the prestigeous Playfair Hall (curses to rail engineering works!)
But I went away with head buzzing with new strategies and having made new friends - Pam, Vee, Maggie, Bob, Jacqueline. It was well worth it.
And it appears that Chair of SOAiS and historian, Angus Konstam (http://www.anguskonstam.com/) has been inspired by the conference to take up tweeting - @Anguskonstam - no pirate will now be safe on the cyber-seas ...

FAMILY FACES - turning relations into fictional heroines

2011-07-12T05:20:00.000-07:00

Great Aunt Lizzie

I've been spending an interesting time turning some of my bestselling sagas into ebooks and having new covers designed. To make the books more personal, I have delved into the archives of family photo albums and chosen relations to illustrate my heroines!
For example, on the cover of The Suffragette is a photo of my great grand-aunt Elizabeth Maclagan, sister to my great grandmother Janet Gorrie who was a suffragette supporter in Edinburgh. I don't know if Elizabeth got involved herself, but she had three nieces who were campaigners for the Pankhursts' WSPU.

For the Jarrow Trilogy, I have used other Maclagans on the fronts of The Jarrow Lass and A Child of Jarrow, chosing women from the right era for 19th century and Edwardian periods.

My lovely Mum!

But for the third and final novel, Return to Jarrow, which is set in the 30s and 40s I have used a delightful picture of my own mother. She was a young woman in the 1940s and embarking on an acting career, so is very photogenic. I may use her again!

The new print versions are coming out in early September, but are being released as ebooks first. They are already doing very well on Amazon Kindle - going into the bestseller lists for Family Sagas.

Amazon ranking for 12 July 2011:

The Jarrow Lass -  #6 in Kindle Store > Books > Fiction > Family Saga

Child of Jarrow -  #11 in Kindle Store > Books > Fiction > Family Saga

Return to Jarrow -  #22 in Kindle Store > Books > Fiction > Family Saga

Browse or buy these ebooks on Amazon

Jarrow ebooks are bestsellers on Amazon

2011-06-22T09:37:00.000-07:00

A CHILD OF JARROW:
"Amazon Bestsellers Rank:
#51 in Kindle Store, Books, Fiction, Family Saga
#88 in Books, Fiction, Romance, Sagas
#91 in Books, Fiction, Family Sagas"

THE JARROW LASS:
"Amazon Bestsellers Rank:
#55 in Kindle Store; Books; Fiction; Family Saga
#95 in Books; Fiction; Romance; Sagas
#98 in Books; Fiction; Family Sagas"

WORLD BOOK NIGHT - reunion of two Durham authors!

2011-03-08T10:19:00.000-08:00

The WORLD BOOK NIGHT event at Waterstones in Newcastle at the weekend brought together two authors with ties to Durham.

I hadn't met Chris Foote Wood since the days in the 1970s and 80s when he used to campaign with my mother Sheila MacLeod in local politics for the Durham Liberals.

So it was with great surprise that we found ourselves both at Waterstones doing signings on the same evening! Chris is still active in politics and was promoting his political biography of T Dan Smith while I was re-living my hippy days and signing copies of mystery novel THE VANISHING OF RUTH set on the overland route to India.

WORLD BOOK NIGHT - the creme de la creme of events!

2011-03-06T04:23:00.000-08:00

The first World Book Night turned into a fantastic opportunity for me to get dressed up in fancy dress - any excuse will do!

I was invovled in two events in the region, the first as a 'giver' of The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie at Morpeth Library. With the help of librarian Lynne Riddell and her team, the library laid on a 1930s style experience with fruit cocktails served while I gave readings from Muriel Spark's superb coming-of-age novel set in 1930s Edinburgh.

Lynne and I donnned vintage evening wear to show that it is not just Jean Brodie who is still in her 'prime'!

We encouraged teenagers to come along and discover this great story - several students from KEVI (King Edward VI High School) attended - as well as more mature readers. As an audience I would rate them the 'creme de la creme'!

Each went away with a copy of the book - many for daughters in other parts of the country - and it is hoped they will pass their copies on (registering their unique number on the World Book Site) so that the novels can be tracked to see how far they go. Jean Brodie - an enthusiastic traveller and teller of tales - would have approved.

From Morpeth I rushed home and changed into my 1970s overland hippy gear and headed for Waterstones in Newcastle to help them celebrate WBN by chatting to customers and signing copies of my mystery novel, The Vanishing of Ruth set on the overland route to Kathmandu. There was a good buzz about the shop - only slightly marred by the news that Newcastle had lost to Everton at St James's Park just along the road.

Organiser Cameron and his team made us very welcome and I shared the event with Lib Dem politician, Chris Foote-Wood, who was promoting his new biography of T. Dan Smith.

SUN COMES OUT FOR VISIT TO VIRGIN MARY'S HOUSE, TURKEY 1976

2010-11-28T11:00:00.000-08:00

View from Virgin Mary's last house

THURSDAY 21ST OCTOBER, 1976 - PART TWO

'Back down to town; some of us had stuffed peppers, chips and tomatoes (Heidi, me, Adrian, Chris, Hans).

Nice town [Bergama] lots of food stalls and shops. Quite clean. Sun came out. Scenery looked much better in the sun - blue sea and clear outline of sandy hills covered in olive trees.

Stopped at Izmir. Soldier called Hassan attached himself and offered to find the Meaders' place [parents of school friend who were living there]. Not enough time, so gave up. Met up with Mark, Paul and Julie. Very modern and busy port.

Salcuk from Nightingale Mountain

Next stop was early evening at house of Virgin Mary up on Nightingale Mountain, outside of Salcuk. Really peaceful and serene setting among terraced gardens and lots of trees, view out to sea, sun beginning to go down. Lovely little chapel built on remains of house; sat inside for a while, attendant gave me free guide.'

PERGAMON - TEETERING TEMPLES AND PHANTOM SNAIL PINCHERS, TURKEY 1976

2010-11-24T15:28:00.000-08:00

THURSDAY 21ST OCTOBER, 1976 - PART ONE

'Went back in to Bergama and up hillside to old citadel of Pergamon. Fantastic views of surrounding hills and plains and bird's eye view of Bergama. Hills very rugged and unfertile; lots of olive trees and sheep wandering around with bells around necks.

Ponies grazing among ruins. Ruins quite extensive (Greek ones - Roman further down towards the town). Remains of aquaduct, old city walls, library (200,000 parchments originally before taken to Alexandra and lost in a fire).

Temple of Athena and very steep theatre dropping down hill - steepest in Turkey because of gradient of hill. Hilarious American Tour - "Gee what a super picture of a fig tree" as they passed the remains of the steepest amphitheatre in Turkey; "does anybody want a bit of marble?" and handed some round. One woman went into ecstasies over a snail and looked suspiciously at us, saying, "You're not going to take the snail away are you?" I didn't think we looked particularly like phantom snail pinchers. Perhaps she thought we were combing the old ruins of Turkey for that very reason ...

ACROSS THE DARDANELLES TO TROY - AND MUDDY CAMPING, TURKEY, 1976

2010-11-23T03:19:00.000-08:00

WEDNESDAY 20TH OCTOBER, 1976 - PART TWO

Paul with flowers in beard

'Back to Eceabat where we got ferry across Dardanelles to Asia. Sat in lounge, waiter came round with cay. Rob trying to write diary again but men pestering him to buy jeans - offered 2000 lire! Paul tried to sell his for 500L.

Next stop was Troy. Went round ruins - about 9 different cities. More impressive than expected - bits of city wall, rampart, theatre, pillars, storage jars etc. Looked out across plain to Dardanelles and Gallipoli (?) in very far distance. Looked around museum, various jars and pots and drinking goblets, as well as powder jars etc. Some still had designs on - owls and little men. No one quite sure which city was one of Homer - maybe 7th city. Big wooden horse has been reconstructed by musuem.

Girls picking cotton in Western Turkey

Continued along coast and inland a bit. Rather boring scenery, mostly flat and muddy; more hilly countryside covered in olive trees. Felt ill.

Stopped at Pergamon - walking across road, Neva was missed by car by about an inch! Bought nuts and raisins. Shirley had her shoes polished; little boy in full command, bashing brush on box with great flair when Shirley was to put other foot up. Nearly missed bus.

Drove few miles out and camped on sandy muddy stretch near water (house was built on previous camping area!) at Plajevleri - bar a few metres away, road on other side of tents. Dogs barking round all the time and village idiot blowing whistle and snooping round tents.'

WINDY, DESOLATE MASS GRAVES OF ANZACS AT GALLIPOLI, TURKEY 1976

2010-09-14T00:40:00.000-07:00

Lone Pine Memorial to Anzacs, at Gallipoli

WEDNESDAY 20TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part One

"Very windy again. Grey sky and grey, green sea - dark when first got up.

Detour back to Anzac memorials. Very quiet, cold and grey. Wound up hill past Lone Pine memorial and others - gully of mass graves. From top looked down on beaches of Gallipoli and ridges between them and the bluff.

Ridges and beaches of Gallipoli

Sinister war ships in the bay, just seen through the mist added an uncanny touch. 9 month siege, about 60,000 Allies died and more Turks - many from cholera, hepatitus, dysentry etc. Stopped at Lone Pine - about 900 headstones and many more listed but never found. Very sad place (quite a few Scots' names).

THE VANISHING OF RUTH - NEW eBook Out Now!

2010-09-13T12:56:00.000-07:00

My new novel, inspired by my travels on the overland trail in the 1970s is now out as an ebook.
Check my website for details: The Vanishing of Ruth

HOT SOUP & COLD CAMPING BY THE SEA OF MARMARA - OVERLANDERS ON THE ROAD AGAIN, 1976

2010-09-10T05:37:00.000-07:00

TUESDAY 19TH OCTOBER, 1976

Young cotton picker in Western Turkey

"Up early and raining. Big clear out of Chinese laundry image! Coffee at bar before left. Boring drive back along road to Greek border.

Became very cold during day. Stopped again at small port, bought hot bread and honey. Eventually turned off down coast and followed Sea of Marmara.

Eventually near Eceabat made camp. Very windy and bitingly cold. Pitched in dark beside a derelict wall (apparently people sometimes live in it!) Very near sea, very rough, could see ships' lights in the dark.

Had hot soup and stew. Some of us walked (or rather were blown) into Eceabat - 2km - and had beer and cay at a quayside cafe. No room indoors because all watching telly, so sat outside and froze! (Chris, Nikki, me, Pam, Mark, Neva and Diana). Walked back - very cold night."

NIKKI SOLD FOR 20 CAMELS! FROM THE BAZAAR TO CAMP BAR, OVERLANDERS 1976

2010-08-23T12:02:00.000-07:00

MONDAY 18TH OCTOBER, 1976

Bosphorus, Istanbul

Part Two:
"Made for a cay shop - (Chris, Nikki, Jan, me and Heidi). Got lost in back streets, seemed to be cloth factories and shops, with streets teaming with cars and men bent double under loads of bails etc. Eventually found tiny cay shop in arcade - produced a few stools and bought cay and Turkish coffee - place seemed to serve all the shops in the area.

Kept buying all the savouries and sweets that were being sold at street corners - me and Jan the worst culprits! Made for the bazaar. Really funny time - blokes haggling for us 4 from Chris! Nikki was offered 20 camels! Quite expensive prices - lots of coats, material, jewellery, belts etc.

Found another cay shop! Then made home in the rush hour with Chris and Nikki. Everyone dashes for the buses, absolute chaos. Eventually crammed in one - a fella called Salami told me where to get off. Then had to waylay a No. 6 mini bus. Everyone rushes into the street and people in mini buses grab them onto the buses. Another bloke guided us on, shouting "Schnell, schnell!"

Went to B.P Camp to see if any mail. Had meal in Camp restaurant - revolting meatballs (probably camp cat!) and cold spaghetti. Tehran turned up. Had to say goodbye - others eventually rescued me!
Went up to B.P Camp again because someone said I had a letter up there. Me and Mark discovered Contiki were there and so stayed and drank with them. Mostly dull, but driver's good fun - pretended he was barman - quite a laugh when annoyed people wanted drinks!

Back to our bus and had a chat in back with Nikki and Chris."

EUNUCHS, QUEEN VICTORIA, DIAMOND EGG CUPS - TOPKAPI PALACE, ISTANBUL 1976

2010-08-20T08:19:00.000-07:00

MONDAY 18TH OCTOBER, 1976

Part One:
"Decided not enough people to go for fish super, so cancelled it. Bus dropped us at Blue Mosque again. Jan, me and Heidi, Bill and Shirley made for the Topkapi Palace. Began to pour again. Palace had lovely courtyards and gardens of trees which must be lovely in the sunshine. All buildings fairly low lying, in pavilions.

First went to the kitchens - large chimneys. Inside was all the Chinese pottery, some very early stuff, masses of it. Really beautiful blue patterns, large bowls and coffee pots, mugs, urns etc. Latter stuff green, pink and mixed colours; some very beautiful. (Imagine using big china urn to pour the cordial in the bus! Might have even more spills!)

Next thing we peered into was the Sultan's library, can't see inside, but saw low couches and book stand. Then saw the magnificent jewellery. Incredible jewel studded weapons - quivers, daggers, pistols etc. Lavish pendants, bags. Section with utensils such as diamond studded egg cups, jade carved bowls. The next section was mainly emeralds, including the biggest emerald in the world. Various jewel studded thrones - looked rather uncomfortable! Then there were some fantastic diamonds, including the spoon mason's diamond - really massive. Gold candlesticks with 6666 diamonds in them - prayers of the Koran.

There was also a house ful of sacred emblems, such as coffers for Mohammed's mantle and little casks with his tooth and hairs from beard etc. Sacred weapons and padlocks from some gate. We then went off and bought some biscuits before the harem guided tour was due. Met up with Chris and Nikki.

The harem was fascinating. Very secluded, over 400 rooms. Dark corridor of cells for eunuchs. The bigger rooms had lovely decorated doors of fruit and pink patterned walls, blue tiles, and incredibly intricate ceilings - the Crown Prince's room had a material covered dome ceiling. Turkish baths and the Sultan's room had running water in so that people couldn't hear what he was discussing with his mother about politics etc.

Fresh fish sandwiches off boats at Galata Bridge

Lovely large entertainment room, low lying bolsters, carpet covered floor, chair with eagle from Willhelm III, and 2 clocks from Queen Victoria. About 300-500 women in all.

Then we headed straight for the quayside for fish and bread off the little boats - really good."

A SHERIFF, A TURKISH PUZZLE AND A STICKY (CAKE) SITUATION - ISTANBUL, 1976

2010-08-19T09:25:00.000-07:00

Yeni Cami (New Mosque), Istanbul

SUNDAY 17TH OCTOBER, 1976

Part Two:
'Walked through market, reached Yeni Mosque, flocks of pigeons around the place.

At the quayside we bought fish and bread from a little bobbing boat, with a charcoal fire (looked hightly dangerous!) Lined up by the rails were salt cellars and a bowl of garlic to be taken with the fish.

A Turk spotted Rob's sheriff badge and got talking. He took us to a cay shop up the hill from the Blue Mosque and we had another sticky cake on the way back!

Di, Jan and Rob eating fish at Galata Bridge

Then we went to St Sophia, a museum now so didn't have to take off our shoes. Tehran (a medical student) came back to the camp with us, we went up to the bar for a bit. After supper I went to do some washing and Rob came and told me that Tehran wanted to see me. Unfortunately he was sweet on me and wanted me for his girlfriend. Gave me his Turkish puzzle ring! He fixed for us all to go to a fish restaurant the next day.

Went back to bus eventually - had a little session; initiated the driver of the Encounter truck.'

RED HOT SHOWERS, COOL BLUE MOSQUE & A MOUTHFUL OF CHESTNUTS - ISTANBUL, TURKEY

2010-08-18T08:08:00.000-07:00

Blue Mosque, Istanbul

SUNDAY 17TH OCTOBER, 1976

Part One:
"Hot shower! Porridge in the kitchen. Dropped at the Blue Mosque - people bombed in on the bus with bread, pcs and shoe cleaning boxes! Jan, Rob and me went to the Blue Mosque. At the inner courtyard we took off our shoes and went in under a leather curtain. Lovely inside - blue tiled mosaics - 4 main pillars (called elephants' feet) with arches and semi arches. Turkish carpets covering all floor, with wooden trays for extra shoes. Two taps on wall for drinking water from Mecca - guide zoomed up and told me to drink, but couldn't get anything to come out!

Inner courtyard of Blue Mosque

He told me about blue being to guard against the devil. Showed me 3 black pieces of stone set in the wall - bits of the stone at Mecca; two large candles on either side of alcove - all facing to Mecca. Beside was very steep, narrow staircase, pointing upwards - guide said no one allowed up because top belongs to God, top step to Mohammed, priest allowed half way up and speaks from there each day. He calls people to prayer through microphone! Large boards in black with gold inscriptions on 4 sides - the 4 most important prophets?

After (collected Diana too) we wandered off towards the Galata bridge, looking for dancing bears! Streets very dirty and busy - bought chestnuts from a little toothless grinning man, popped extra ones into our mouths!"

INTO TURKEY - TASTING THE CAKES, AND REVELLING IN HOT SHOWERS AND LETTERS AT ESSO CAMPSITE

2010-05-27T00:40:00.000-07:00

By the time we reached Turkey we had been on the road for three weeks, yet this was the first stop where we could pick up mail from home. Imagine being out of contact with family and friends for that length of time in the 21st century - inconceivable! Letters were like lottery wins and home entertainment rolled into one!

SATURDAY 16TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Early start - dark when got up - no one looked very bright!

Countryside fairly poor, flattish fields, lots of cart and oxen, dirty muddy rivers, mostly dried up; low hills in the distance. Stopped at grotty town - spent last drachma on biscuits - funny blend of Turkish and European clothing - most women enveloped in black. Little kids came after us for money - boys pushing smaller kids in prams - pathetic sight; came as quite a shock when felt a little tug at my elbow.

Stopped at border for a bit - some buses were made to empty completely - at Turkish side, bedding and things spread all around.

Long drive for most of the day. Stopped for a cay stop in town on the coast. Got a welcome in the cake shop (me and Neva needless to say!) everyone very friendly. Had an eclair!

Eventually reached the Esso Campsite outside Istanbul - dark by that time, so haven't seen anything yet. Kitchen facilities - all ate in the dinning room area - Encounter [Overland] group singing away at other end of room.

Hot showers here too!!! Windy and cold tonight. 1st mail stop. Letters from Mum and Dad."

THASSOS ISLAND - cakes, surf and dishy Greeks all to ourselves, 1976

2010-05-25T10:01:00.000-07:00

Thassos Island and Keramoti on the Greek mainland were to be the inspiration for a disturbing incident in my novel OVERLANDERS (soon to be published as an e-book)

Ferry to Thassos Island

FRIDAY 15TH OCTOBER, 1976

Boat building

"Got the ferry across to Thassos Island - half hour trip (calmer than Skye crossing). Fairly cloudly over island. Landed at small town. Wandered around streets with Neva and Sally - headed straight for cake shop. Worked our way through apples, bicuits, pastries too!

Various ruins in town - bits of pillar lying around. Walked out along front, began to clear. Saw men sorting their fishing nets and further along there was a timber yard with 3 boats being made - just the skeletons so far. Lovely smell of freshly treated wood. Also passed a shed with boy scout emblems on the walls - they get everywhere! (Boy scouts not walls).

Nosed round small crafty shops, selling clothes, pottery, belts, jewellery etc. Walked along past ferry landing, sat by the sea. Met 2 English blokes who had been on Island for 2 or 3 weeks - we were quite an event as most tourists had left by now. The really fat one said there were no jellies today - I nearly split myself when I saw his flabby belly - a bit incongruous! They directed us in the direction (good English) of a nearby beach; so we stocked up on more food (a real piggy day!) - bread, toast, honey, cheese, yoghurt - Neva had another cake!

Neva and Sally on Thassos Island

We walked out of the village, up a lovely wooded hill road - great forests covering all the mountains. Lovely leafy, sunny walk, very quiet and deserted. Came down to a group of chalets, passed various open air dance floors and bars - everything closed down, so didn't have to pay, but made our way down to the private beach. Fantastic breakers, so dashed straight in, whole beach to ourselves (only 1 little man in the distance). Picturesque island just off the headland - Neva said looked like the Whitsun Islands. Ate picnic and I snoozed in the sun.

Walking back, a taxi suddenly appeared and a man offered to take us in to the harbour - so got a free lift and reached the ferry in good time. Met us with Bill and Shirley, Adrian, Chris and Hans.

Coming into Keramoti again - looked like South American swampy village, very flat. Sally and I wandered around Keramoti - lots of hes and rather shabby plots, though houses were quite gayly painted.

Lovely sunset early evening - played with a football with a little local boy and Adrian - ball kept going into the flooded areas - my white trousers got an even worse coating of grime!

Keramoti beach bar

Most people had a meal out at the nearby bar - took ages to come. I had 3 small fishes, tomato salad, chips and bread - washed down with plenty Domestica! Bar filled up with Greeks - eventually we were all dancing. I went and sat with some Greeks - 2 really dishy. The Thessalonican medical student was a bit persistent, suggested a swim - eventually escaped saying my husband was waiting for me! Hid in the bus. Felt a bit down again - Mark cheered me up.
New girl finally caught up with bus - Mary (New Zealand)."

GREEK COAST-SCOTTISH VIBE - GREAT BAKERIES AND CAMPING IN THE RAIN, 1976

2010-05-05T04:42:00.000-07:00

THURSDAY 14TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Very windy and overcast. Lovely coastal scenery once more, rather Scottish again with blue fingers of land and grey-blue sky.

Stopped at Lavadia for shopping stop. Shops never very well presented. Greek towns dirtier and less attractive than I'd imagined. Had lovely pastries with cheese filling (Heidi, Frances and Diana) - I won't lose any weight on this trip!

Picked up the other 6 at their beach camp. They'd had lots of sun and fish barbecues etc. Went to Thessalonika, tried to cash money, all banks close between 1 and 4 though. Had sandwiches down by the waterside. Very grey and windy, but quite stuffy too. Others (Paul and Mark) had big gallon flask of ouzo type drink ("Cheepero") which they tucked into. Others of us drank wine - couldn't touch the ouzo again!

Began to rain this evening. Pressed on along coast to camp where ferry crosses to Thassos Island - absolutely chucking it down - had no trouble getting pegs in tonight!"

DELPHI, GREECE - AMONG GODS, PIGEONS AND MURMURING CROWDS, 1976

2010-05-04T03:33:00.000-07:00

WEDNESDAY 13TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Left Athens. Dropped Nanette. Making for Delphi. Incredible amount of shrines along roadside - only seen 1 vandalised yet had loads of small crosses and cups etc inside. Began to get mountainous - Delphi in big mountains - ruins all the way up mountain slope.

Made my sacrifice of 30 drachma (i.e. full price) and went in. Got in on bad tour, woman couldn't find the baize of the tripod! Saw Temple of Apollo and amphitheatre. Decided to climb even further to see the Stadium - went up dusty windy path, cheap of birds, disturbed a few pigeons. Reached Stadium, really high up and hidden among trees. FANTASTIC sight, just me and the gods up there, could almost see the chariot tracks in the dust. A gust of wind in the trees sounded like the murmur of the crowd! All the seats around one side of the stadium still well preserved; big square pillars at one end. (Went to the loo looking down over the stadium - what a boast!) Fantastic view of the mountains looking down from the top.

Travelled on through striking mountain scenery (much hazier and drier that Jugoslavia. Idyllic pastoral scene cant have been so idyllic on such arid, dusty mountain slopes). Clouded over. Worked way down hairpin bends to a small town where we stopped for a "coffee stop" - taken to drinking nescafe to avoid sweetened Turkish coffee.

Camped again at Stylis - different part of coast, very near beach again and a quiet bar (with great toilet facilities!) Had a nice Amstel beer then a good camp supper of steak and kidney and fresh melon! Ground really hard; dark when we pitched - think it's on a road in an orchard!"

ATHENS - ACROPOLIS AT DUSK, FLYING SHISHKEBAB AND TAMLA MOTOWN, 1976

2010-04-18T00:43:00.000-07:00

TUESDAY 12TH OCTOBER, 1976

" Late morning - 8.0! Wrote pcs and lazed around in sun during morning. Snooped round other Swagman bus and played Tamla Motown - they've much better selection than us. Few of us left, had omelette and beans for lunch.

Lift in with Magic Bus. Tried to get Nanette [girl we gave lift to from Methoni] away on the bus to London, but got there too late. Chased round square to contact Geoff and get her luggage back to camp. By late afternoon finally started sightseeing!

Made way up narrow lanes to Acropolis, kept losing everybody. While at Acropolis most tourists were leaving and sun going down between the pillars of the Parthenon, hazy view out to sea. View of Temple of Zeus and other hill (Athens not an attractive city - much of it dug up and half built, very dirty). Guards and band appeared and played while flag lowered. Men blew whistles frantically when anyone tried to go inside Parthenon. One attendant gave us a pollo; another called Jan Athena, me Aphrodite and Rob Zeus! All seem very friendly.

We wandered down small streets, little leather shops etc, till came to restaurant with tables in street, waiter just about dragged us off street and sat us in front of menu. Presumed this was where we were to meet Fred. Had Demestica while waited then ordered meal. Had disappointing shishkebab and greasy cheese salad - flung half on floor trying to get off skewer - dogs ate it! Loads of cats too. Nanette came across us - had been lost in area. Eventually Fred and other Swagman driver Steve found us.

At 9.0 we went up to see Son et Lumiere looking across at Acropolis. Thought it over dramatic, some of it quite hilarious. "Thwack, wack, build and build" and mad dash of running feet, like something out of the Goons! Afterwards several of us went for a coffee down from Acropolis in big empty restaurant with carpets and bags on the wall. Got lift home with other Swagman bus."

THERMOPYLAE TO ATHENS - HOT SPRINGS, COLD SHOWERS, HOMESICK, 1976

2010-04-18T00:16:00.000-07:00

Aussie Jan trying to climb out of hot spring at Thermopylae

MONDAY 11TH OCTOBER, 1976

" 1st stop, small town, had coffee. 2nd stop was the hot sulphur spring at Thermopylae - bathed feed in the water - fantastic, just like a hot bath (really slimy on bottom). What a boast!

Then stopped to take picture of Spartan memorial, quite impressive.

Very dry, hazy countryside. Felt bored and a bit low. Got to Athens in the afternoon, camped and had fantastic cold shower. Felt human again. Met up with other Swagman bus - talked to nice Aussie bloke.
Had drink at bar (Chris, Nikki, Adrian, Chris, Rob, Sue, Pam, Diane) Felt really depressed. Went and talked to Di and Frances, doing washing, they felt bit homesick too. Pam pissed off too."

METEORA, GREECE - BEESWAX CANDLES, SHY ORPHANS, VOTIVE CORN ON THE COB, 1976

2010-04-16T23:59:00.000-07:00

SUNDAY 10TH OCTOBER, 1976

"No after effects [of Ouzo] at all!
Headed down coast - dropped off 6 at a campsite [Platamon] - not coming to Athens - Paul, Julie, Mark, Pam, Neva and Sally. A lot more room and quiet! They wrote rude messages on bus as we left.

Made inland - detour to trip. Suddenly left plain and huge rocks and cliffs appeared - very dramatic scenery. Convents perched really high up on these cliffs, amazing sight [Monasteria of Meteora]. Climbed up road and stopped at Convent of St Stephen - had a look round - not allowed in unless wearing a dress and arms covered. Let in across drawbridge - nuns almost totally covered in black. Small courtyard inside - orphanage made up one side - no signs of kids until just leaving, then little faces appeared from a window. View out over small town at foot of cliff-face and hazy blue horizon of plain - quite hot.

Small chapel - seats like monks at Durham, with small ledge so when dozed off seat collapses. Very ornate icons, beeswax candles, incense etc.

(Before reaching here we stooped at a spring - very touristy, stalls selling corn on the cob, nuts, sticky sweets as well as religious emblems and bags and Davy Crocket hats. Little chapel at other side, across suspension bridge, priest doing baptisms - very noisy and chaotic, walked round reciting while mother and baby follow, then slams down book and slaps wet cloths on the yelling baby. Another fellow rushed in, stood at the lecturn and recited too, tourists milling in and out all the time).

Fred hung corn on the cob above table [on bus] - health hazard with flies.

Stopped and camped by sea again - Stylis. We cooked another fantastic meal - my elaborately prepared custard was revoltingly runny!

That evening 3 Greeks bought us some beer at the nearby bar and ended up paying for all beer that evening! They kept chucking the empties under the table and ordering more! (Spent about £6 worth) By the end (after a million 'vivas!') everyone was calling each other philo and phili!"

"remains of deadly corn on the cob - property of Fred and Jan"

METHONI, GREECE - SWIMMING, DANCING, 'SMASHED' 1976

2010-04-15T02:55:00.000-07:00

On cooking duty in Greece - went over budget and overboard with the garlic and sustained a blister courtesy of the bubbling Smash (does anyone else remember that distinctive industrial taste of powdered mashed potato?) Had my first and last encounter with the mind bending substance Ouzo - now I understand the warning: beware of Greeks bearing gifts ...

SATURDAY 9TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Left early for Greek border. I was doing cooking with Nikki and Chris. Stopped at small town to shop - lots of sign language in the market (all 4 stalls!). Overspent money. Crossed border making butties! Beer at border a rip-off.

Made for east coast, camped in afternoon at Methoni fishing village. All went down to the beach (tents a stone's throw away from sea), swam in the Aegean Sea! - very slimy and shallow!

Prepared meal with frisbies flying everywhere - got one in the back of the neck! Fantastic spicy, garlic etc stew (La stew as opposed to Le Stew. Drew up stupid menu - wide-mouthed frog and caterpiller pie, les afters, tic tac a la Robert etc!) The smash (vocanic) spat at me and burnt finger - gorgeous blister.

Then all went down to nearest bar - some people been there since very early. Tested out ouzo - only drank half bottle (too many). Other Greeks there playing instruments - so some got up and did Greek dancing with them - Shirley being one of course. Adrian keeled over - took 4 of us to get him to tent where spewed up.

Other group - 2 Scouse, I Irish and girl who is getting lift to Athens with us. I thought I was OK but got to bus and memory is a complete blank! Apparently I was feeling awful, hanging out of bus window and sounding upset. Remember heading for sea at one point and sitting there - Rob came and rescued me, got things out of bus and found my tent. After that I escaped again and headed for bus because heard music playing. Apparently nearly murdered tape deck and shouted obscenities at Fred and Jan about the noise - vague recollection - Fred said that's last time I get to choose music!"

CAKOR PASS IN JUGOSLAVIA - DIZZYING DROPS, PINK SHEEP AND ROUGH RED WINE, 1976

2010-04-12T12:24:00.000-07:00

"Heavy due and mist. Kids all going to school past camp. Fantastic views up steep mountain sides. Very deep valleys, heavily wooded with incredibly perched farms and vertical fields - people tending herds by side of road, lots of carts and donkeys. Very narrow dusty road, dropping away on my side of the bus in sheer drops! Kept meeting other buses, looked out of window, so close to edge that couldn't see road at all!

Eventually at top of Cakor Pass, had black coffee and door-stop goat's cheese sandwich. Then down hairpin bends again to 13th century Byzantine Church. Peaceful convent beside - two rather formidable ladies in black wouldn't let people in with t-shirts unless covered up bare arms. Lovely paintings on walls inside - four different churches all together (originally centre for Serbian bishops).

Walked around Pec - not interesting town, but people very friendly and bought fantastic chocolate eclair at sticky cake shop! Poverty very noticeable; lots of women dressed in Turkish style baggy trousers and white headdresses; men in white caps.

People always waving as bus passes; noticeably more Arabic in features than northern Jugoslavs. Countryside flatter here, the odd mosque in the distance, pink sheep by wayside, lots of people just sitting around by side of road, many houses seem only half built.

Stopped for lunch by few houses, kids appeared from nowhere when we began playing with frisbies - lovely little boy got very excited about the game. Great send off. Unfortunately had to return to hunt for Rob's lighter, but not found. Paul opened bottle of rough red wine about 4.0! Few of us had some - felt good on half a cup full! Ate nuts and grapes with it. (Nobody is allowed to sleep at the back; the new rule is to shout and nudge anyone who tries to fall asleep - mustn't miss the view or show that had a heavy night before!)

Camping at Skopje - bar and doughnuts just opposite tents! Little attendant wandering round counting us - even in showers - didn't get away with 23 people!

MONTENEGRO - CHARLES BRONSON AND THE COMFY CUSHION, 1976

2010-03-25T02:13:00.000-07:00

[It's a measure of the rough comfort of life on the road that I got excited about big comfy seats in a bar in Montenegro ...]

Mountains and lakes before Titograd with view of Albania in the distance!

THURSDAY 7TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Through Montenegro countryside - big thickly wooded hills, green fields, quite poor looking houses. Again gaping curiosity, but waves too.

Made camp early evening at Ivangrad by the hotel. Lots of children and voices sing out of the dark now and again.

After supper went to hotel bar - fantastic big seats (Paul, Julie, me, Chris, Nikki, Pam, Neva). Went down to disco (band playing mostly Greek type music). Joined by Mark, Rob, Diana, Frances. Other Jugoslavs latched onto our table. Never seen so many males. Charles Bronson looking one asked me to dance (and more besides although he only spoke German!) Other fat man joined in with belly dance. To avoid hassle, went and sat down again and pretended was married to Adrian!

One thought Paul wanted to dance with him when told him to move along! By this time they were getting aggressive - one smashed, accused Frances of stealing his gold chain - (didn't have enough to pay for his drinks). A bit of hassle with people shouting and conferring. Paul threatened him with police. He followed us back, so Fred and Rob took him back to proprietor and with threat of police he left. We all repaired to the bus for a coffee. Long chat with Rob - friendly advice, nice to have someone to trust."
River Moraca gorge, beyond Titograd

LAST GULPERS FOR NORTH EAST VETERANS, SOUTH SHIELDS, 17 MARCH 2010

2010-03-24T04:30:00.000-07:00

RUSSIAN CONVOY CLUB - FINAL "CHRISTMAS" LUNCH AT SOUTH SHIELDS - IN MARCH!

The veterans of the North East of England branch of the Russian Convoy Club held a belated Christmas knees-up at South Shields Seamen's Mission, as the venue had been closed during December. It was a cheerful (as always) but poignant occasion, as the branch has decided to disband - there are too few men left attending regular meetings to keep it going.

It was well organised by old salt, Bob Roberston and his wife of 67 years, Audrey. There was a turn out of 14 comrades and just as many wives, widows and family members - including my brother Torquil and myself - to enjoy the delicious three course lunch. Wine, beer and tots of rum were flowing - "Gulpers not sippers!" as my neighbour toasted cheerily.

Our dad, Norman MacLeod, who was on 5 convoys (on The Marne) across the Arctic to Murmansk and Archangel to supply the Soviets during the Second World War, was a regular attender at the Christmas bashes, enjoying the convivial company and the sing-song of old hits. He loved his time at sea - he was in his early twenties and it was a huge adventure - and he made light of the constant dangers. He would tell with delight that the only time he was injured during the war was in a bar brawl in Wallsend coming to the defence of some marines against Polish sailors - he ended up in the RVI with stitches in his head. Still, he must have been impressed with the Geordies, because Scottish Norman returned in 1950 and settled in Durham as a teacher.

Dad's roll call of action included the evacuation of Crete, the relief of Malta, the Dieppe raids and the North Africa landings. But in later life it was the lads on the Russian convoys that he met up with again in the North East of England and enjoyed many a reminisce over many a tot.

The North East group plan a final get-together in November - before that particular branch 'passes over the bar' - I hope I can be there to raise a glass on Dad's behalf for a last gulpers.

[You can read more stories about Norman in my childhood memoir, Beatles & Chiefs hhtp://bit.ly/80tTM2]

DEATH-DEFYING DRIVE UP SERPENTINE, AND FRISBIES IN THE SUN, YUGOSLAVIA 1976

2010-03-24T02:00:00.000-07:00

LETTER HOME: "we climbed the Serpentine 26 hairpin bends - incredible views - hair raising to meet things on the road ... after a lot of backing (and praying) Geoff managed to clear the lorry - so near the sheer drop that looking out of the window there wasn't even a verge to see between the bus and limbo! ... luckily we have a good driver else I would have died of nerves! (He may be the alcoholic's guide to Kathmandu but he's a very capable driver!)"

THURSDAY 7TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part One

"Lovely morning - ate breakfast on shore. Met Norwegian on a recuperating holiday of swimming etc.

1st stop Kotor - old walled town. Parked by old sailing ship. Little market. Lots of little squares and winding allies. Surfeit of ally cats! Bought some goat's milk cheese (Paul, Julie, Jan, Rob, Mark and me).

Wound way up Serpentine - 26 bends. Fantastic view of mountains and sea and town of Kotor. Across basin at top and then down an even worse road. Met a double feight lorry coming up - 3 buses, 1 lorry and car coming down.

Stopped at clearing in trees - donkey and 2 women appeared with bundles of sticks on their backs - had trouble keeping them on donkey's back, but animal completely oblivious went on eating grass.
Played with frisbies. Really quite hot.

Through Titograd then along spectacular gorge with sheer drops down to river - very green and clear - and upwards in great white cliffs. Jugoslavs very wreckless drivers (as if roads aren't bad enough) - apparently lots of graves along road of not too careful drivers - didn't see any."

THE ADRIATIC - STUNNING SUNSET, STARLIT SWIM, STRONG BEER, CAMP CURRY - HEAVEN! 1976

2010-03-22T02:48:00.000-07:00

"DEAR MUM & DAD,
I'VE JUST HAD AN EVENING DIP IN THE ADRIATIC - BEAUTIFUL CALM WATER, MOUNTAINS ROUND ABOUT AND LIGHTS TWINKLING ACROSS THE BAY. ME & SHIRL (A MIDDLE-AGED CANADIAN WOMAN, A REAL LAUGH) WERE THE ONLY ONES WHO WENT IN - SWAM AROUND LITTLE BOBBING FISHING BOATS, ONE OR TWO STARS OUT AND NO RAIN!

REALLY REFRESHING AND OUT OF THIS WORLD ATMOSPHERE - FOLLOWED BY A REALLY HOT CAMP CURRY."

WEDNESDAY 6TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely view of sunset as drove away [from Dubrovnik] - lights going on in old town; pink, violet and silver blue lights on sea - red ball of fire in sky.
(Passed a couple of accidents on road).
Lovely moon on sea, dark shapes of mountains and string of lights along shore. (All along coast, lovely peninsulas and inlets and clustered towns on the edge of fingers of land).

Camped near Kotor Fjord. Swam in dark just few feet from tents with Shirley. The Adriatic!! Really great - not as cold as Skye! Swam around boats, looking across at far lights and ferry.

Had a beer in the bar beside the camp - quite strong. Walked down to see what village like - ferry attendants kicking football around - obviously cars have to wait while they finish. Kicked it back to them, then it missed me and went shooting into pond - so swiftly left!
(Slivovic is the drink here).

DREAMLIKE DUBROVNIK - VIRTIGINOUS VIEWS, OVERLANDER PHOTOS 1976

2010-03-19T08:51:00.000-07:00

LETTER HOME:

"Highlight today was Dubrovnic - as good as I'd hoped. No traffic is allowed inside the old city walls and so it is lovely and peaceful, masses of small allies and old houses. We walked round the town wall, quite high up and so the views were terrific - some of the wall drops away to the sea, worth feeling a bit of vertigo!"

GORGEOUS YUGOSLAVIA - LOVELY LADS AND STICKY CAKES, and meet my friends the Overlanders, 1976

2010-03-19T04:26:00.000-07:00

EXTRACTS FROM LETTER HOME:

"One thing that is very striking to the girls of the group is the positive hordes of gorgeous looking fellas in every town we've been to in Jugoslavia! Why was I never told?! (The group by the way is very much over weighted with girls - 17 to 11! There are three couples and I'm the youngest of the group. Everyone seems to get on well) ...

There's often a group of us who sightsee together (the card sharps at the back of the bus!) There's a super Aussie couple, Paul and Julie, another Aussie girl Jan who is friendly with the driver's helper Fred, who suddenly appeared at Paris. Then there's a couple of nice fellas, Rob and Mark - Rob feels a protective responsibility towards a newly released school girl! and is a real laugh, and Mark is rather exuberant and is always the first to fall over clutching a vino bottle or to dance on the tables! ...

A great feature of Jugoslavia are the fabulous little sticky cake shops! At one town we were eating these and I smacked my lips and said how much I was enjoying it - next minute the little man had rushed away and got a glass of water! (It's the custom to have it with the coffee). The chocolate eclairs, Dad, are out of this world!"

More on the Overlanders novel at: http://bit.ly/bEVp5V

DALMATIAN DELIGHTS - COFFEE, CAKE AND DELICIOUS DUBROVNIK, 1976

2010-03-18T01:29:00.000-07:00

WEDNESDAY 6TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part One

"Up early again - porridge oats for breakfast! Lovely view out to sea - not raining!

Stopped at small town, posted pcs and had turkish coffee and lovely cakes in small cafe (Me, Rob, Jan and Sally). I said cakes good and made slurping noises - he went away and brought us some water as a result!

Everyone singing as sun came out. Lovely views of mountains and coastline. Stopped by small village quayside and ate sandwiches outside of bus for first time - snotty dog took a fancy to me!

Dubrovnic was fantastic. No traffic allowed within old city wall. Walked around wall- very high, lots of photos. Great view out to sea, then rain came.

Caught unprepared - sheltered under tree (and in it!). Then got really drenched coming down from wall.

Wandered around old city - (incredible hordes of dishy males). Lovely red-tiled roofs, lots of cats, some keen people playing basketball in rain. Washing strewn everywhere, some very high up on roofs.

Had coffee in front cafe outside walls - very expensive."

YUGOSLAVIA - ZADAR, THUNDER, SPLIT AND SLIVOVIC! 1976

2010-03-17T02:05:00.000-07:00

THE RAIN AND PARTYING CONTINUES - YUGOSLAV STYLE ...

TUESDAY 5TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Grotty shower, drain flooded and muggins couldn't get hot to work. Up at 6.0 - off in record time of 1 and a half hours. Down Dalmatian coast, stopped at little town to shop. Bought carrots at little market - lots of little fat women in black.

Coastline reminiscent of Scotland (Apin and brief glimpses of Loch Bracadale!) Lovely small hamlets, peasant farming, lots of donkeys (donkey and horse pulling same rickety cart). Lots of small trees and scrub.

Rain pelted down, thunder and lightning - had to stop while eased up. Lots of card games (I was nearly hurled off table with the bendy roads!) People picked at food (and drink) all day.

Stopped at Zadar. Nice town, old streets and squares, flagged roadways and light coloured buildings. Part of it for shipping, lots of boats. (Lovely relief on the walls!!) Bought booze at supermarket - beer nice. (Lots of young people milling around - some canny looking fellas!) Rob dropped his beer on the ground, foaming mass so beer obviously strong!

Stopped at Split. Saw 3rd century AD (BC for thickies ie Mark) Diocletian Church. Nice squares, stalls - grabbed by man to buy carpet - perhaps they come together. Coffee at a little cafe with Jan, Rob, Mark, Paul and Julie.

Camped nearby - pouring rain again - always waits until the tents go up! (Sang 'Singing in the Rain' today in bus!) Sitting writing this in bus - Chris just announced that foamies escaping!

Evening in the bus. Lots of Slivovic and beer. Ann smashed again, wouldn't leave Geoff alone. Nikki looking for Chris down the hill, commotion outside! Man wandering around eyeing bus until all went to bed. Nikki still insisting she wanted to go down the hill! Hard core left were Jan, Fred, Rob, Hans, Heidi and me. Got complaints about noise outside Mark's tent next morning - he was on cooking and so sent to bed early!

Drank Whitbread Pale Ale! None left for desert."

IS THIS YUGOSLAVIA OR SCOTLAND? - STUNNING SCENERY, FRIENDLY FOLK AND RAIN, 1976

2010-03-16T01:21:00.000-07:00

IN A LETTER HOME: "I've really fallen in love with Jugoslavia, although the rain has been following us relentlessly until today! It's getting beyond a joke, as soon as we stop to pith the tents, or step out to see the sights, it pelts down. We've taken to singing 'Singing in the Rain' in the bus and other such optimistic songs! ... The coastline all the way down is reminiscent of Scotland and every now and then I see glimpses of Loch Bracadale and the Outer Isles! The only difference is the very white rocky slopes of the hills and the little towns - all clustered at the end of peninsulas, lots of re-tiled roofs built in higgledy-piggledy fashion."

MONDAY 14TH OCTOBER, 1976

"Early up! Made for Jugoslavian border. Lot of people began to feel rough as journey went on!

At border, exchange lady could have shot us all happily - not too friendly. Stopped at Ckricvenica for a coffee and shop - horrible coffee, nice friendly people though. Walked out to small pier - clouding over again.

Coastline beautiful though, lots of inlets, steep chalk terraced slopes, roads winding round them. Picturesque villages and fairly industrialised ports - a few ships. People very curious of Swagman!

Made way to campsite. Near sea, nicely situated among trees, good facilities. Seemed deserted apart from us. Someone (Chris) found dead green snake! Sat in bus talking about films. Early bed for a change. It poured at night of course."

DEATHLY WET IN VENICE - BUT SWAGGIES LOVE OF PARTYING NOT DAMPENED, 1976

2010-03-15T05:42:00.000-07:00

LETTER HOME REMARKS: "The day had been full of sight seeing in Venice ... we got caught in the alleyways of Venice in a real torrential downpour because we couldn't decide where to go! It was a bit miserable wandering around, soaking wet jeans flapping around our ankles. Still it's a really fascinating city - (was rather surprised to see Dirk Bogarde lurking around the Rialto Bridge, but no doubt it added to the atmosphere!)" [As a family, we had gone to see Death in Venice just before I went away; my Dad and brother Rory had hammed up the parts of Dirk Bogarde and the youth with which he's infatuated]

SUNDAY 3RD OCTOBER, 1976

"Into Venice for sight-seeing. Boat to Rialto Bridge, wandered around very narrow winding streets and over small canals. Rain began again! St Mark's Square - quick look in church, but mass was being said - tourists very noisy all around.

Went to Doge's Palace with Heidi [from Germany] and Frances [from London] - great rooms heavily gilded and decorated, impressive parliament room. Over Bridge of Sighs and round prison - graffiti on ledges, very dark.

Decided to look for pizza - easier said than done! Couldn't find cheap pizzas, only lots of restaurants. Rain was pissing down by this time - got drenched and more hungry! Eventually dashed out of rain - lousy pizzas!(pleasant wine). Made way back to Rialto Bridge, and up river again. Frances bought a leather pouch and then bartered for belt to go with it just before bus left.

Barbecue in bar - lovely chicken and salad (which had to be eaten indoors because of the rain!) Lots of wine - some came back from getting left behind at 84th birthday party in a bar. Very rowdy night, people on tables, under tables! I got wine spilt all down my back. (Paul and Mark singing and dancing on tables). Ended up in bus. Ann collapsed, Mark collapsed - scars all over. Fred turfed us off bus - wine not finished. Escorted home again. When Ann was carried into cabin, a sleepy befuddled Neva asked who it was. On being told it was Ann, she made the classic remark, "but there's no Ann on this trip"!!

(T-shirts for Swagman handed out - mine was out of shape because Fred had worn it first thinking it was his - then it got spattered in wine later on!)"

OVERLANDERS GIVEN THUMBS UP BY NORTH EAST READING GROUPS

2010-03-12T03:36:00.000-08:00

OVERLANDERS ROLLED INTO MORPETH LIBRARY LAST NIGHT TO FACE THEIR READERS!

Several North East Reading Groups have been trialling pre-publication copies of my new mystery OVERLANDERS - and last night Morpeth Library hosted a feedback evening to let them have their say.

With a glass of wine in hand, the guests were treated to readings from the diary and letters from my original trip, as well as readings from the novel by husband Graeme posing as the fictional driver Cassidy!

And the novel was given the thumbs up - 94% of those who gave written feedback said they would recommend it to other reading groups.

Here are just a few of the comments:

‘Loved the book – couldn’t put it down!'

‘I would strongly recommend this book as a good read.’
‘Wonderful. Kept me guessing all the way through. A pleasure to read.’
‘I thoroughly enjoyed this journey through time and distant lands without leaving the comfort of my armchair. The contrast between the Victorians, the hippies and Jake’s party was fascinating.’
‘Interesting characters, great plot, nice mix of the feel and texture of the story.’
‘Love the era that it’s about and gives a real feel of that era.’
‘I think everyone who read it enjoyed it. Nothing and no one is quite as it first appears. I would recommend it to another reading group.’

Next week OVERLANDERS journeys to Hexham Library for another feedback evening, and then next month it's off to THE LONDON BOOK FAIR ...!

FUSINA CAMPSITE, VENICE - fog, fleas, foamies and fun! 1976

2010-03-11T04:18:00.000-08:00

OFF TO VENICE AND FUSINA CAMPSITE ...

SATURDAY 2ND OCTOBER, 1976

"Up early. Rolled the foamies!!
The foamies are explained in a letter home: "we're quite efficient at getting up, fed and tents packed etc in 1 and a half hours (up at 6 every travelling day!) The worst job in the morning is rolling the foamies (that go under our sleeping bags) and squeezing them all in between 2 sets of seats; they are rather temperamental things and tend to spring out and flow into the gangway if not given their due attention."

Left for Venice. Good card games at the back. Scenery of hills, trees and picturesque houses - tunnels etc (hopeless to try and read!) Then fog descended and saw nothing.

Got to Fusina after lunch - cabins not tents!! Seems nice campsite but lots of mosquitoes.
My letter home says: "The campsite was really rather luxurious - hot showers and what's more we managed to book into cabins and so got a bed! It may have been rather flea infested but it was real high living."

Run into Venice briefly in afternoon and saw gondolas tied up by canals, lovely bridges; not time to see much else (apart from station).

Evening spent in the bar of camp - Fusina is rather famous for rowdy evenings in the bar because the camp is always full of bus tours! Graffiti on walls, exuberant barmen etc. Eventually only Julie, Paul, Mark and me left, retired to bus - few others there. Sat at back listening to Supertramp.

We've had t-shirts designed with Asian Greyhound on - the design is a bus inside a large carafe of wine! "

More photos on Facebook Page, Overlanders: http://bit.ly/bEVp5V

TALES FROM AN UNTIDY BUS - washing strewn everywhere and there's a body in the aisle, 1976

2010-03-10T11:35:00.000-08:00

EXTRACTS FROM LETTER HOME, WRITTEN IN FLORENCE, ITALY, 1976

" ... refrained from spending small fortunes on leather goods (and of course the pink inflatable pocket size statue of David - thought you'd like it for the new mantelpiece at Suardal!)
However we treated ourselves to real Italian pizzas and ice cream (water melon flavour)

... the rain has caught up with us again I think we're cursed. Tonight we're going into a disco - the Red Garter.

By the way we're not going to Tehran which is a bit of a shame, so don't write there. Geoff the driver (a Scot) said that writing on p.cs or aerogrammes to Asia is advisable so no one will break into them. (It takes about 4 days for a letter to get to Istanbul).

We're a day ahead of schedule if you're following on the map! The group we met in Paris were a month overdue from Kathmandu, so I may be spending Xmas in the Khyber Pass! Half their group were struck by hypertytus [sic] and flown home!

Well, signing off - got to tidy the bus! At the moment all the packs are down, washing is strewn from railings and there's a body sleeping in the aisle (Fred who appeared in Paris and makes himself useful cleaning windows etc - done the trip before).

Off to Venice tomorrow,
Love and kisses,
Jan

FLORENCE AND THE BUS MACHINE - MORE PIZZA THAN UFFIZI? 1976

2010-03-10T03:19:00.000-08:00

[18 year old Jan is more impressed with the Italian pizzas than Old Masters - "such early stuff not that appealing" - but at least the dresses were lovely! A taste of Florence nightlife at the Red Garter is rounded off with yet another spectacular downpour - the expensive beer may not have been flowing but the rain continued to do so.]

FRIDAY 1ST OCTOBER, 1976

"Cold shower. Some were the worse for wear. Into Florence to sightsee. Queued for ages to cash cheque in bank. Wandered towards river, looked round market, lots of lovely leather bags and pill boxes etc (Went with Janice, Ann and Mark).

Went into Uffizi gallery. Nicely presented but such early stuff not that appealing; dresses in portraits lovely and views from windows of square and river/Ponte Vecchio. Veranda on the top floor looks over the square. Then went over Ponte Vecchio and found small pizza house over the other side - real Italian pizza!

Over another bridge and wandered towards Acadamie - tried to see around Modern Art Gallery - ancient lift deposited us at some doctor's appartment! Eventually found gallery - closed!

Acadamie also closed by time arrived there (lovely little Italian gent directed us down unimposing street). So wandered long way round to camp - lots of little side streets - all stops for siesta (although raining), lovely gardens with friends cat - only spoke Italian. Crossed river again, walked along and up to camp.

Went into the Red Garter disco in evening - good crowd. Band quite goo too, beer very expensive. Bus left early so walked back with Mark. Pam and Sue went off with an Aussie and Italian.

Incredible thunder storm - whole earth seemed to be shaking; thought we'd be struck with all the trees nearby!"

SWAGMAN TOURS HITS TOWN - booze and bad jokes lead to police and irate campers, 1976

2010-03-09T02:37:00.000-08:00

[Swaggies hit Pisa and Florence to the consternation of some, as I record in a letter home - "All the more cushy tours (the type who use camp chairs etc) look in either amazement or derision at 'Swagman Tours' - people almost fall out of windows when Swagman hits town!"

Janice, Little Jan, Aussie Jan, Little Pam

At Pisa (or Pizza as I miss-spell it in my diary) I write home, "I'm getting good at pitching a tent in the dark. My tent mates are 2 Aussies who've been 'doing' Europe and a Londoner who has been doing nursing. Unfortunately 3 of us are called Jan, but we seem to manage without too much trouble!" We became identified as Aussie Jan, Little Jan (me), Janice and Little Pam. When I refer to Jan in the diary it usually means Aussie Jan who became a good friend.

THURSDAY 30TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"Saw round the Tower (or rather up it). Felt dizzy because so uneven. Lovely setting, next to big cathedral and area of grass. Lots of grockley shops too. Good view from top. Cathedral cool, dark, empty, few candles.
Quick coffee (Mark, Jan, Rob and me) then off to Florence.

Camped at Michelangelo campsite. Walked around (Janice, Hans, Mark and me), nice view looking down hill to Florence, lots of trees. Bar, shop, jukebox and pinball/football machines. Did washing.

Early evening drove into Florence, saw round Cathedral square, lots of little art shops, leather shops, pizza smells. (Mark fancied a photo in a window that looked like himself). Got dark quickly, place began to come alive, lots of people suddenly appeared. Driving back, saw all the lights along the riverside.

Lots of people drifted to the bar. Good camp meal. Back to bar for the night. Too much wine and beer and bad jokes! I ended up making coffee in the bus for Geoff, Rob and Jan - sucker. Camp police or whatever (after a good session themselves) told us to keep the noise down, then one irate camper. Various people spewed up, coffee knocked over, Jan put into her tent after falling among the foamies!

(C.C.T Tour pulled up today - another posh tour - camping chairs etc! Classic looks all the way when people see Swagman ride into town!)"

OVERLANDERS HIT THE RIVIERA - 14 HOURS ON THE BUS AND MORE RAIN THAN THE ISLE OF SKYE! 1976

2010-03-08T01:07:00.000-08:00

[14 hours on the bus as we press on through the rainy and misty Riviera - and I think nostalgically of the sunny Isle of Skye! But a sing-song and dried apple keep spirits high.]

WEDNESDAY 29TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"Sunny Provence is still wet. Up at quarter to 7. After breakfast walked through gardens (camp is on a hill) to look down on the amphitheatre of Orange. Statue in middle; seats repaired, lighting, so obviously still used. Mass of irregular red-tiled roofs and narrow streets hemming it in.

Making for Riviera - lots of vineyards. (Geoff handed out free toilet roll each - pink!) Countryside gradually more rocky, small bushes and square red-tiled farm houses. Further south - hilly, forested, towns on hillsides.

Seen the Med! - very grey and misty.
Nice - palms, blocks of flats, little stations, 2 triangular multi-storey luxury hotels. Drove along famous Boulevard des Anglais - beach front and exclusive hotels. Up mountainside and along coast - very steep, lots of trees and houses perched high up, view should normally be incredible. Superb bays.

Into Monaco - saw palace on hill; very densely housed. Brief glimpse of Monte Carlo Casino as drove past. Very prosperous looking restaurants and boutiques; lots of young people. Made a stop for shopping outside "La Madone" hotel, as yet haven't been told to move.

Extract from letter home: We bombed down through the Riviera - Nice, Monaco - all in the pouring rain! Typical - always knew the weather on Skye was the best! So we went on into Italy along the new auto-route which is a series of tunnels and bridges across valleys and towns. At the border the Italian customs man tried to get us to give him a bottle of whisky so that he wouldn't ask us to unpack all the luggage! However, we managed to get away with doing neither.

At Italian border, customs officer tried to barter for a bottle of whisky (unsuccessful!)

Italy wet, houses rather drab in rain. Road follows coast, tunnels and viaducts crossing valleys and towns, views out to sea. Making for Pisa - had a sing-song in back of bus and Shirley's dried apple!
14 hours on the road."

MORE ON THE HIPPY TRAIL ON FACEBOOK: http://bit.ly/Overlanders

OVERLANDER LETTER HOME, 1976 - Angel Delight, Pernod, cards and camping in the rain.

2010-03-06T01:46:00.000-08:00

FIRST LETTER HOME WRITTEN ON THE BUS THROUGH FRANCE:

A touch of envy at Contiki Tours; no camp stew and Angel Delight for them ...

On the bus!

(Provence)

Dear Mum and Dad

Hope you got my p.c. from Paris. We had a good evening - some of us got a lift from Contiki Tours into Paris again. A very smooth bus - tinted windows, luxury seats and a courier who tells sick jokes! (They even had a marquee affair where they doled out breakfast - not real camping!)

They drove up the Champs Elysees and round the Arc de Triomphe all floodlit - and round and round ... the traffic being Parisian it took some time to work our way to the outside of the race-course and take one of the roads again!

And a brief encounter with a formidable female French patron in a bar ...

They all went to a restaurant for a meal but as we'd eaten the soup/stew? and Angel Delight? concoction at the camp we all piled into a bar down the road. We were "stung" by the awful prices because we sat down rather than prop up the bar. Two of the group tried to "persuade" the waiter that the prices were too much and disappeared behind the bar with him - far from winning, the lady patron appeared - and no one argues with French landladies (they ended up buying the waiter a drink!)

Aussie card games on the bus and putting up tents in the rain ...

Yesterday we were woken at 6.0 (ugh!) and were on the road by 8.30. We had a few 15 min stops on the auto-route, but apart from that, were on the road for 12 hours! Spent most of the day playing rummy than then learnt an Aussie game called "5000" - I was pretty useless (having excelled at Rummy) - perhaps it would help if I stood on my head!

In the dark and rain we pitched at a place called Orange, Provence. Had a quick drink to fortify us - the exuberant barmen had been knocking back the Pernods, so insisted that the first round was free! (About seven people). This morning was still wet and hazy."

card scores recorded on toilet paper!

FRENCH CAMPING - PERNOD AND SNAKES? 1976

2010-03-05T03:08:00.000-08:00

[My first postcard home from France gushes; 'the people seem to be very nice - lots of single travellers like me, many Aussies. About 26 of us, but few more to be collected!']

TUESDAY 28TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"Woken at 6.0 in morning! Remains of rice gunge for breakfast. Set off from campsite about 8.30. Down towards Lyon. A few motor self service stops - luxury facilities!

Played cards at the back for hours - Rummy - I won! Learnt '5000' (sort of!). On the road for 12 hours.

Rained like mad, so pressed on to place called Orange, near Avignon. Pitched camp in rain (so much for the sunny south of France - Skye is much drier!)

Had a drink in a local bar - barmen were all well away, drinking Pernod, so they gave us all a free drink (seven of us) and we only had to pay for the second - 2francs for 2 beers!

Dark by time at camp, so don't know what place is like - seems to be deserted! Thought I saw a snake in the dark - turned out to be a long worm! (Was teased about that!)"

OVERLANDERS IN PARIS - some eat well, others just head for the bars, 1976

2010-03-04T00:45:00.000-08:00

[Day Two and it was into Paris to do the tourist thing. We were camping in the Bois de Boulogne so in the evening scrounged a lift with another tour bus going back into the centre. They were going for a posh group meal out while we headed for a bar and complained about the price of drinks - which more or less set the tone of our group from the start - cheap and cheerful!]

MONDAY 27TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"Lift in with other bus to Louvre - some went in there - but some of us went to see the Impressionist Art Gallery (Frances, Sally, Heidi, Jan Diana, Mark and me). Really good. Super one of a family gathering! Liked Van Gogh and Monet. Lovely serene characters and backgrounds.

Walked for miles to other Modern Art Gallery but was closed. In great need of a drink by this time! Decided to make for Latin Quarter. Caught tube and found a cafe - had a citron presse! Expensive, must have paid for the view (National Bank of Paris). Wandered around the streets - temporarily lost as two hunting for malaria tablets. Ate quiche Lorraine.

Sally and Frances went to see a friend. We decided to walk home through the Bois, so spent ages rushing from one tube line to the other - all turfed off at one station, some at one before - some French game to play in the rush hour probably. Finally walked back - people training and being energetic in the Bois, lots of exclusive houses (didn't call on Omar Sharif).

Hot shower, great! In evening got lift into Paris with ContikiTours - drove round Arc de Triomphe (several times before getting off). Saw everything floodlit. Their tour went to a restaurant while we went to a bar down the street. A rip off for the drinks because we sat down. Arguing didn't pay off! Trip round Montmartre rained off. (Chris, Nikki, Sue, Pam, Pam, Neva, Rob, Mark, Jan, Hans and me)."

THE HIPPY TRAIL STARTS HERE - in London on a bus going backwards! 1976

2010-03-03T04:43:00.000-08:00

[The first day of the trip began in a sleepy London and ended with pitching tents in a dark Paris. Not knowing a soul, I teamed up with Janice and Australian Jan for tent-mates, so I soon became known as Little Jan to differentiate between the three. At the campsite in the Bois de Boulogne we listened open-mouthed to a Westbound group of overlanders, their numbers decimated by hepatitis, who spun us tales of horror of the trip ahead. Their bus windows were blanked out with whitewash like some fever ship. The memory stuck with me and I use it in my novel OVERLANDERS. www.janetmacleodtrotter.com]

SUNDAY 26TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"Up at 5.30. Taxi driver came early - had lived in India! Father a Methodist missionary. Got to Venture Centre. Little van drew up (not however our transport!) Bus eventually came, loaded rucksacks on roof. Bags under seats - I sat at table, facing backwards - not the best way to see things. Bus dirty, not exactly deluxe air about it, but reminiscent of United buses so felt at home! Tape deck broken down - hope not an omen.

Sat opposite Julie and Paul - Australian couple making way home. London almost deserted. Early Sunday bells at outskirts.

Crossed Dover- Calais, very calm. Had drink in bar with Janice, a nurse. Saw France appear from the deck. Bought duty free wine and beer (saving Whitbread Pale Ale for the desert!)

Long drive to Paris. Sunny. Stopped for driver to have a kip. (Chatty fella called Geoff - likes his drink!) Had snack on bus - not too expert at pouring water while bus moving - what will it be like on Turkish roads?!)

Sun setting as approaching Paris - traffic jams. Finally reached Bois de Boulogne campsite (brought back memories!) Pitched tents in dark then ate sausages.

Another Greyhound bus beside us - a month overdue! Left Kathmandu in June - half of them left as a result of hepatitis! They chatted and told us about their experiences - I think we're in for a rough time! Graphic details about "the shits" and Afghans etc."

THE HIPPY TRAIL: DURHAM TO KATHMANDU - DAY ONE rucksack, rain and rail, 1976

2010-03-02T05:35:00.000-08:00

[1976: I was 18 and relishing the lyrics to Alice Cooper's 'School's Out'. Having spent the hot summer holiday of 76 on the Isle of Skye, I was taking 'a year out' (as Gap Years were called in those days) before going onto Edinburgh University to do Social Anthropology. Inspired by stories of my mum, Sheila Gorrie, growing up in India in the 1920/30s where my grandfather was a conservator of forests, I took the road east.

My grandmother, Sydney Easterbrook had gone out from Edinburgh in 1923 to marry Robert Gorrie in Lahore. She had travelled by ship; I was going by vintage Bristol bus. Granny Sydney was part of the 'fishing fleet' - the Brits who went out to India to marry those who worked for the Raj - while I was joining the 1970s hippy trail. It was also money that Granny had put into trust for me, that was paying the £250 fare to Kathmandu. The day I left Durham in the North East of England, I spoke to Granny on the phone; she'd had a mild stroke earlier in the month and I'd stayed with her in Edinburgh to help out. It was the last time we spoke.]

"SEPTEMBER, 1976. ASIAN GREYHOUND TRIP TO KATHMANDU !!!"
SATURDAY 25TH SEPTEMBER, 1976

"The usual last minute panic, quick rush down town and cramming of things into the new (carefully waterproofed!) rucksack. Not the same sinking feeling as going off to school though!

Phone call from Mel and also rang Granny before leaving. Said goodbye to Puss and Ted! (Played the Garden Cottage tape of "Odds and Ends")

Durham grey and rain pouring down. Helen, Mum, Dad, Don and Barbara all came to [the railway station] to see me off! (The trendy ones wore cagoules! - Dad wore old mack!)

Watch Cathedral and Castle disappear in drizzle and mist - market place, well loved streets etc. Went under Crossgate Moor bridge (usually walking to school over it and watching trains rush under!)

Taxi to Radnor Walk [Chelsea, London]. Drucilla [MacLeod] gave great welcome. Friends round for drinks. Two been in Kathmandu - gave me address of a home in India. Drucilla and I had lots of chat over supper. I slept on sofa. (Car stopped outside playing Beach Boys!)"

PASSAGE FROM INDIA - Delhi dawn to snowy Durham with smelly jeans and champagne, 1977

2010-02-23T04:46:00.000-08:00

[This surreal day began in Delhi, with my guardian angel (in the form of seasoned overland driver John) driving me out to the airport in his bus, and ended in snow-bound Durham in the North East of England. Nothing prepares for the feeling of dislocation that air travel brings - a journey that had taken over 3 months by bus, was unravelled in a day. I remember two teenage girls holding their noses when I went down the aeroplane aisle, which reminded me how long my jeans and I had been roughing it. The British Council official whom I sat beside was far too gentlemanly to complain - so polite in fact that he failed to point out that for half the journey I wore my radio headphones up-side-down over my head rather than dangling like a stethoscope! And then I was back in the warm embrace of the family; euphoric, babbling and punch-drunk with exhaustion but very happy to be there. I would never be the same teenager who had set off from Durham the previous autumn and waves of nostalgia for Asia would hit me in months and years to come; but for now there was champagne, food and family around the kitchen table - and at last I was home.]

WEDNESDAY 12TH JANUARY, 1977

"Up at 4.0! Packed and had toast and coffee. John drove me in the bus; had tea at airport - checked in. Unclaimed black bag near us! We told 4 people, including Security, but not bothered! John and Bob are taking the bus off today - making for Europe in 4 weeks - will be freezing trip eg Turkey minus 40 degrees at night! Offered me a lift back and pay at other end if got stuck - nearly had to take it!

Security checks etc - finally on plane. Next to nice ex-British Council man (like Hoppy [Canon Hopkins of Durham Cathedral] though not quite as vague!) accompanying nice little lad back to school. Told him of my adventure - he took half of journey working out the length of the journey!

Stopped at Barhain - swarthy blokes with cloths wrapped round heads and in jumpsuits came on board - no not a high-jack - they were the cleaners! From plane saw Gulf and flat beaches, low buildings - all very oily and drab. Landed at Damascus - armed guard, took ages for people to board. Flat wasteland all around; but when took off saw great snow-capped mountains - flew over Lebanon and then Turkey.

Landed at Heathrow an hour late - journey taken about 13 and a half hours! At Heathrow after customs etc, got bus to Terminus 1 and picked up money plus ticket for Newcastle. Missed original flight. Suddenly the loudspeaker boomed my name and ordered me to Information; feeling important but afraid I went - it was Mum and Dad wondering why I wasn't on plane! I must be the most well-known lost traveller in the whole air flight business!

Had much needed half pint. Plane late (so what' new!) Onto plane finally - ordered Martini and fell asleep, woke to hear we're about to land! No time for drink. Hostress asked me if I was feeling alright.

Dad and Don [eldest brother] to greet me - in their Russian coats! Snow thick on ground. As drove home - told of great Delhi saga! Mum and Barbara [sister-in-law] waiting. Don and Barbara opened champagne for me. Debbie [school friend] rang! Flowers from Jock [Durham friend] and card from "the whole damn bunch"! Torq [brother] phoned; just missed them. Phoned Rory and Uncle Donald.

Wine with slap-up meal. Gave presents - much concern over beedies - obviously hash at least. Don said when you get to the string you bail out! (Dad smoked the wrong end!) After 26 hours finally fell into bed! Adventure over !!!"

LAST DAY IN DELHI - milkshakes, whisky and full moon levitating, 1977

2010-02-20T05:49:00.000-08:00

[Day 13 in Delhi and lucky for some - my ticket home finally comes through. I celebrate with ice cream milkshakes on John's bus and have deep spiritual conversations with a levitating French Canadian (though my euphoria might have more to do with Bill and Shirley's Indian whisky). And there's a final trip to my local - the Imperial Hotel - for my last evening in India.]

TUESDAY 11TH JANUARY, 1977

"P.T.A came! Bob, Margaret and Arthur on bus. Had big ice cream milk shakes from Ramble (open-air) Restaurant again. At 1.0 got ticket in my possession! Flight for 7.0 next morning. Went and found out bus times but John offered to drive me.

Ceylonese passenger came and plagued them again - always discovering he needs some other visa - gave them bag of Ceylonese tea (obviously backsheesh because he asked for a reduced fare!) All street sellers came round bus - especially little orange seller - she's a real actress and businesswoman - looking much better off and charging more than when we came through Delhi the first time! Someone tried to polish my shoes (as usual!)

Shirl and Bill appeared. Went to their hotel - Indian whisky this time! Chatted with French Canadian - really fascinating about Tibetan people in Ladakh-Kashmir and the Lamaist religion. He was present at the Dalai Lama's performance of enlightenment and he communicated his thoughts to the lamas and 100 visitors chosen around him. (At the same time Mao died! 'He extinguished the almost exhausted candle' as the Canadian put it. Great nationalist desire of Tibetans to regain their country. He said it was easier to meditate in the mountains - eg concentrate on a full moon till eyes are filled with the light of the moon, then feel self lighter and think of many things. Lamas achieve levitation - sit in bricked in rooms etc. Lamas are chosen from birth - as babes on the 49th day).

They walked me back. Went for a quick drink with John at the Imperial."

DURHAM CALLING DELHI - breakthrough phone call, Swaggies bearing whisky and Tandoori celebration, 1977

2010-02-19T04:47:00.000-08:00

[Day 12 stranded in Delhi but things are looking up: contact is made with home, a ticket is on its way and I bump into 2 old friends from the overland trip, Canadians Shirley and Bill. Once again the overland drivers of Connaught Place treat me as one of the fraternity and John keeps me fed and watered.]

Bill and Shirley, fellow Swaggies from Canada, 1976

MONDAY 10TH JANUARY, 1977

" Call came through at 7.0. Got Dad and told him to buy ticket, said Mum would buy it in Edinburgh. Relief! Had breakfast with John. Dad called again! Said ticket would be to Newcastle plus £25 to cover costs. Had to disengage from blatant proposals of Bali! Even after 6 years in Germany he still has warped view of western women.

Went to B.A and told them good news. Sat on bus again. Nice co-driver Bob appeared - amusing. Margaret came with me to see if P.T.A through. No! Guess who saw crossing road - Shirl and Bill!! [fellow Swaggies from bus trip] Ran after them - big welcome. Went to Palace Heights were they were staying and sat on terrace waiting for them with various of the patrons - nice bunch - good looking too! Saw S & B's room - really nice and big, clean with beds, tables, phone, toilet etc for less than YMCA. Finished their Haig with them!

Got back - walked across park in Connaught Circus - huge fountains spraying me, Indian music - all rather festive. John took me out to Embassy Restaurant for a meal - had Tandoori Chicken - nice. Went for drink at Imperial - "the local"!"

ALL ALONE IN DELHI - CHEERED BY OVERLAND DRIVERS & ROSY PELICAN BEER,1977

2010-02-15T03:26:00.000-08:00

[With Nikki gone I was feeling very bereft until I met John, an overland driver, at the YMCA. He showed great kindness taking the stranded Swaggie under his wing and introducing me to the camaraderie of overland drivers in Connaught Place. Rosy Pelican beer helped keep up morale in the wait for a ticket and fruitless attempts to get phone calls home.]

SUNDAY 9TH JANUARY, 1977

"Nikki got up at 5.30 - had breakfast in room before left - said a sleepy goodbye. Muggins on her own now! Went down to breakfast. Bali beckoned me to his table. Introduced me to John - an overland driver, 29. Chatted on about [Asian] Greyhound. He's got 2 buses - been doing Overland trips for 6 years - when things were really primitive. Invited me to drop in at bus if wanted.

Called at B.A to see if P.T.A come. No. Sikh asked me to come for a beer, but I didn't go. Went and sat on John's bus in Connaught Circus (after changing rooms [in YMCA] for a single). All Overland buses park here and all visit each other and chat. Met some nice drivers - Margaret and Arthur (Sunshine Bus), a boozy Aussie - Dennis, who had a mini bus; Barry hash smoker, Ernie - cockney given to exaggeration.

Went back to see if any message. Called Durham - but all away at funeral - student wouldn't accept charges, but gathered brother there this evening. John took me out for a drink at the Imperial Hotel after supper - had Rosy Pelican beer - quiet strong and sweet. Very pleasant. Booked call to England for 11.45.

Got back - couldn't get through - waited till 3.30 in morning. Slimy attendant waited with me - offered to pay my fare home !! plus any of my expenses - warned me off John - said might leave me high and dry, wanted to know if he was my boyfriend - so I used him as excuse to refuse his attentions. He pursued me [down corridors saying had keys to all rooms] but I was too quick for him!"

19th BIRTHDAY IN DELHI - no money, no ticket, just Spike Milligan and brother Rory to cheer me up! 1977

2010-02-12T02:10:00.000-08:00

[It was day 10 in Delhi with the last of our money running out, a ticket for Nikki but none for me - just another useless telex from Asian Greyhound telling me to go to the post office for the non-existent ticket (we had gone to the post office so often they had tea and chapattis waiting for us) - and it was my birthday! The thought of Nikki flying away the next day and being left alone with no way home, brought me to the lowest ebb - so I booked an international phone call home. It must seem extraordinary to those brought up in the age of mobiles and Internet to wonder how this could be such a major event, but this was the era when telex was the eighth wonder of the world. My parents (coping with the aftermath of Granny's death) were not at home, but luckily I got brother Rory, who was trying to finish an essay before returning to college, and a little surprised to get a hysterical outpouring from his sister in India. He was the hero of the hour.]

Rory piping with his daughter Lorna on Skye, 2009

SATURDAY 8TH JANUARY, 1977 - MY 19TH BIRTHDAY!

"My birthday! Nikki got call from the Embassy saying £100 available in rupees because of irate telex from the Foreign Office, but must draw all at once and not convertible to dollars or pounds again! [So we never made trip out to Embassy]

Went to Ariana [Afghan Airways] - Nikki's P.T.A for new ticket come! Flight Sunday morning 7.30! No ticket for me.

Nikki went a bought me a card and I bought Spike Milligan book. Decided to collect cases from airport. Very upsetting to go there and not fly! Felt miserable.

Back in afternoon to B.A - yet another telex saying Mrs Flynn [of Asian Greyhound] says go to Post Office [for ticket]! Burst into tears! Couldn't stop or be cheered up. Decided to ring home. Booked a call through - got [brother] Rory - asked him to get Dad to buy ticket in London today - urgent, no money etc - felt better for call."

BRITISH EMBASSY WASHES ITS MANICURED HANDS OF DIRTY TRAVELLERS, 1977

2010-02-11T01:04:00.000-08:00

[Having been euphoric the day before with promises of tickets home, it turned out to be false in my case and complicated in Nikki's. The British Embassy were as helpful as a chocolate fire-guard. We spent precious money travelling out to the luxurious area of New Delhi where our diplomats lived to be told by a brusque officer that he would be out of sight and out of mind over the weekend, so not to bother him. It was a day of hassle - and my last one as an eighteen year old!]

FRIDAY 7TH JANUARY, 1977

"New telegram for Nikki - she must go to Ariana [Afghan Airways] for ticket! Went and saw a very unhelpful young bloke - ticket has to be blacklisted in Kabul before a new one issued! My ticket not here. Nikki decided to ring home that evening - felt better for it.

Also went to British Embassy to collect Nikki's money that father had arranged - very unhelpful - would give nothing, no money for travellers. They would only fly people home if destitute - if there was no one at home to pay; they would disown then repatriate! [This meant having your passport revoked] Any money leant had to be repaid before left the country!

Taxi took us to the wrong post office, so nearly had stand up fight with driver because we refused to pay full fair. No tickets again."

DELHI DESIGNERS - we are models of Indian hippy clothes for a day! 1977

2010-02-09T00:29:00.000-08:00

[For a day we became models and advisors for a small Delhi clothing business that was selling to the hippy market in Germany. The best part was being invited into an ordinary family home with a view over the rooftops and given a delicious Indian lunch. And there was good news to follow ...]

THURSDAY 16TH JANUARY, 1977

"Had breakfast [in the YMCA] with Bali, the Sikh. Went to his room and Nikki tried on different fashions - very attractive and original designs. Took us to his "factory" - his own family house in side streets of Delhi. Lots of family help in the business. Went to room at top with nice patio - great view over street below and roof tops of Delhi. Nice white-washed walls.

Nikki tried on loads of clothes and I gave advice! Lots had to be altered slightly - brother, cousin and designer all there too! (I tried on nice maxi cheese-cloth dress for fun).

Afterwards we had tea on patio, then lunch below - sister-in-law made lovely meal of curd, curried cauliflower, curried tiny beans, chapatis and salad. Then Bali directed us to B.A from his house.

No news. Back to hotel - reading when phone went - B.A said tickets should be here tomorrow! Nikki has money at High Commission if necessary! Celebrated with sundaes at "Kwalitys"!

DELHI - samosas with postmen, Tamla Motown and Indian whisky to drown bad news, 1977

2010-02-08T03:06:00.000-08:00

[Thanks to the help of the B.A staff, word was finally filtering back home that we were stranded in Delhi. But they feared that the reason I hadn't heard from my granny was that she had died. Worse still, they couldn't confirm if this was true. My grandmother, Sydney Easterbrook, had gone out to India from Scotland in 1923 to marry forester Bob Gorrie, and they had lived there until the Second World War. Granny was one of the inspirations behind my trip east. Now like the elderly enigmatic Mrs Moore in Passage to India (another inspiration for going to India), it was possible she was dead.

So we 'attacked' the whisky to drown our sorrows ...]

WEDNESDAY 5TH JANUARY, 1977

"Happy Birthday Ank! [youngest brother Angus] At breakfast a Sikh came to our table and asked us to model his clothes, so could guarantee right size - he sells to boutiques in Germany - we certainly meet all sorts in this place!!!

Went to B.A - nothing. Went to GPO - they're so used to us, today we were given sweet tea and chapatis wrapped round potato samosas (potato in batter)! Cheerful fella warmed chapatis over small electric fire! Must be the only tourists to have done this - probably the only ones to penetrate so far! Nice middle-aged man gave us address of Foreign P.O and told us to try there in case mail had been insured.

Off we went in a rickshaw for miles, racing with traffic far beyond the confines of Connaught Place! Hassled away with Indian and weren't understood very well - 2 blokes helping - said had no access unless we had registered number etc. Discovered this wasn't foreign mail! Went to building behind - same story.

Back to centre - cheered ourselves in record shop by listening to Tamla Motown L.P!! Then found really good Penguin bookshop and browsed in there for a while.

Back to B.A - telex for Nikki telling her to go and check GPO! Several for me - no reply from Granny. They in touch finally with parents. Dad sent cheque for ticket - then horrible news that Granny may be dead. No confirmation - felt very upset. Can't stop thinking of it - what can be happening at home? To be stuck in this place because of Asian Greyhound inefficiency and to have no news from home! Very anxious and miserable.

We attacked the bottle of whisky bought for New Year - drank half of it before supper - took mind off worries. Went down to dining room giggling and wearing new tops. Waiter in good mood tonight."

DELHI YMCA - witches, hair washing and Whisky Galore, 1977

2010-02-06T01:06:00.000-08:00

[The YMCA continues to be our home as it becomes increasingly obvious that Asian Greyhound have never sent tickets for our return home - paid for the previous September. But eccentric ballerina's, a clothes sale and Whisky Galore keep up our spirits.]

TUESDAY 4TH JANUARY, 1977

"We were joined at breakfast by one of the "witches"!! (Two bony women with scraped back black hair, pencilled eyebrows and tight-skinned, gaunt faces, who sit in garden too - Nikki calls them the witches). She was Aussie with cultivated English accent; loved London and the Arts (!) - a ballerina also feeling "the call of India". Runs her own company and has a theatre room in the Sydney Opera House! Very easy to talk to but we can imagine a Prima Dona.

Into B.A - Nikki got telegram - her parents in touch with Asian Greyhound - said sent ticket on 20th Dec! (Supposed to be in Kathmandu by 14th!) She sent another saying to buy ticket as desperate. Went to GPO - no tickets.

Read! Bored silly again. Went into B.A in evening. Nothing. (No shops open but had found chemist, so washed hair in afternoon for something to do!) Sale still on - succumbed to temptation and tried on half of garments! Had great time tossing clothes all over the place! (Bought 2 tops again).

Waiters in a bad mood tonight - ours was rude and refused to change a note for us, as well as ignoring us and serving us last! Bed early - reading "Whisky Galore" now!"

STILL IN DELHI WITH NO TICKET HOME ... 1977

2010-02-05T00:57:00.000-08:00

[Another day of fruitless searching through post office mail and waiting for telexed replies to our messages home via British Airways. I escaped to the world of Cathy and Heathcliff ...]

MONDAY 3RD JANUARY, 1977

"Into B.A in morning - no messages. Went to Delivery GPO - man at desk asked for intimation again but let us up this time. Nothing came - checked American Express mail too.

Read [Wuthering Heights] in garden most of day. Sale on in hall [at YMCA] - had pleasant half an hour going through tops and dresses - we bought 2 small tops!

Bed early - nothing else to do."

DELHI YMCA - reading, sleeping, eating and being preyed on by the CHILDREN OF GOD, 1977

2010-02-04T00:45:00.000-08:00

[In the sanctuary of the YMCA we slept and read and ate, waiting for news of tickets or contact with family. Temptation came in a strange form - young wide-eyed converts to the Children of God (a cult that believed Jesus was coming within the next 20 years) who wanted us to go and stay with them. We'd never have to worry about the next meal or running out of money again - they would look after us. We'd heard rumours about free love and that they'd been kicked out of Kathmandu for proselytising, so politely declined.]

SUNDAY 2ND JANUARY, 1977

"Big breakfast - cornflakes, poached eggs, toast and coffee. Phoned B.A to see if any telex - but no reply yet. Sat on veranda and wrote diary! Feel better staying in nicer place and not wandering the streets of Delhi.

Sat in small garden below and had coffee. Read all afternoon.

"Children of God" came and talked to us in lobby. Strange but cheerful. I still reserved opinion - don't like the St Paul approach having it [religion] rammed at me. Theirs is a new order they say - will have nothing to do with the old - I don't agree there because rejecting too many people out of hand. They don't believe they'll have a problem of age because Jesus is coming within the next 20 years. Their group was thrown out of Kathmandu for open preaching; in India they are taking over Mission Schools etc.
(Subsequently had 2 more of them pushing pamphlets at us in the streets).

Supper - Indian food again, then went to bed before 9.0!"

NEW YEAR'S DAY IN DELHI - YMCA liver and jelly, and a dog-eared copy of Wuthering Heights restore morale, 1977

2010-02-03T00:58:00.000-08:00

[It's New Year's Day and rather than wander the streets we decide to take refuge in the YMCA in the hope that money will come and we'll be able to afford it. It comes with "a nice institutional atmosphere" (we must have been feeling low) and comfort food - liver and cabbage Indian style and milk jelly. It's here that I read Wuthering Heights for the first time and am completely bowled over.]

SATURDAY 1ST JANUARY, 1977

"Decided to move out and spend money on room in YMCA because can't be long till money comes through. The American said he'd gone to bed at 9.0 last night! Said goodbye and left.

Back to B.A. - no telex from London yet. Went to park and ate our grapefruit and some bananas. Lay in sun - I slept while Nikki wrote to Chris. Avoided open air cafe! Went to YMCA and booked in double room Rs86 - between £5-£6 including breakfast. Nice institutional atmosphere! - i.e. pretty clean, nice lobby, little balcony opposite room overlooking small courtyard with chairs and tables.

Sat and had coffee in lobby - nice American from Mrs Calaco's came in and chatted with us - he's thinking of changing rooms because the Dutchman snores so loudly (Nikki says surprised he doesn't choke himself!) Walked into centre with him. We went to B.A again! No telex. Man gave us tea in back office, talked of his New Year. Insisted on NY kisses and hugs as we left! Why is it that as soon as you talk they presume they can get fresh with you?!

Went and bought more throat lozenges and asprins, then bought "Wuthering Heights" [from second-hand book stall] and went and had coffee and a pattie. On way back met JB Singh - we thought we'd avoided him so well! Authoritatively arranged that we would meet him tomorrow at open air restaurant - though we said we might be flying out. We said too ill and tired to go to his cousin's party tonight. I had sore throat today too. Finally disengaged ourselves - he thought we were still at Mrs Calaco's.

Back to hotel at 7.30. Nikki went straight to bed. I went down to restaurant and had lovely Indian dish - basically liver, rice and cabbage - but done up in nice sauces with strange sounding names, together with dahl (quite spicy) and sweet chutney. Then had a milk jelly and coffee. Restaurant was fairly empy and quiet. Went to bed - read Wuthering Heights till just after 9 then slept till 8.45 next morning when knock on the door!"

TOILET GRAFFITI - MA CALACO'S, DELHI, NEW YEAR 1977

2010-02-02T00:36:00.000-08:00

Our Delhi accommodation so far was a hotel that reminded us of a brothel and a hostel that was basically a doss house - Ma Calaco's. But she kept a motherly eye on us - providing us with old sleeping bags (I don't like to think how often they'd been used and by whom) and turfing out two blokes to another room so we could have charpoys to sleep on.

It may have been basic but you can always tell a high-class establishment by the graffiti On the toilet walls:

GOD IS DEAD (VOLTAIRE)

and underneath

VOLTAIRE IS DEAD (GOD)

HOGMANAY IN DELHI - dancing to Abba with Delhi's "trendy" then ending up in hash-filled doss house; 1977 begins.

2010-02-02T00:26:00.000-08:00

[The New Year, 1977, was seen in rushing around in a Buik between posh parties in Delhi and dancing to Abba. But Nikki was ill and all we really wanted to do was go back to Ma Calaco's doss house and our hash-smoking room-mate - an eccentric but kind Dutchman who caught mice and made us coffee!]

FRIDAY 31ST DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Three

"This party was full of the trendy young of Delhi - all in Western clothes. Abba was playing. Small room for dancing - Nikki and I both dancing with JB Singh. Although it was the house of best friend Chris, he kept saying they only went to such a small party so others wouldn't say they were too grand to come - some friends! Nobody seemed particularly ecstatic to see them!

Nikki not at all well and nearly asleep. Kept asking them to take us home but wouldn't listen; said we had to go to another party first. Nikki pleading with them by this time. Stopped at really posh place - big party of about 100 people - but we sat in car while JB went into say hello. Already Pixie telling him to look out for other girls - kept boasting that all the "trendy" people of Delhi were there - all properly invited etc. Imagine if we'd walked into such a place with our jeans on!

Finally agree to take us home to Mrs Calaco's. JB insisted we'd meet next day at open air garden. Dutchman and weird Yank who'd moved out for us, were in the room - stoned on hash. Dutchman quite amusing and cheerful though strange. Long fair hair and long beard - made us some coffee. Fell into our dirty sleeping bags and slept."

HOGMANAY IN DELHI - from doss house to posh house! scruffy overlanders join the jet-set, 1976

2010-02-01T01:03:00.000-08:00

[The Hogmanay search for tickets goes on - we bump into a friend from the bus trip but he's got no money left either. Then somehow we stumble into the world of rich Sikhs and the Delhi jet-set and suddenly it's party time - in rotting jeans!]

FRIDAY 31ST DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Went back to register mail place - nice man allowed us to look through mail - nothing. Rang up Old Delhi post office - but nothing either.

Back to British Airways - met Ian [elderly Swaggie from bus trip] on the way! Fell out of scooter rickshaw and rushed up to him crying and gabbling our story - so relieved to see someone we knew! Poor Ian couldn't understand at 1st! Couldn't help because no money left - flying out that night. Went to B.A. - Telex back [from Asian Greyhound in Windsor] saying Mrs Flynn away till 4th Jan, but no details! Ian and nice Brum girl came in. Asked them what they thought of telexing home for money for 2nd ticket as B.A. suggested. She said A.G. could easily cancel and refund 1st ticket and Ian said they must!

Felt doubtful because Mum and Dad not on phone [on Skye for New Year], could only give Granny's address and number. They encouraged us to go ahead - so B.A. sent off telegram. Other alternative was to wait and see if tickets come - but money running out and if with Ariana or Iraqi - wont be flying till at least next weekend. Felt at our wits end. Had to cash more money - asking rickshaw man for Ivory Hotel - in fact was Imperial I meant.

Sikh came up and asked us what wanted. Said would walk us to Imperial Hotel becuase going that way, then said cold so must have a coffee. Doubled back to open air restaurant - lovely Xmas tinsel streamers etc gleaming in dark. He invited us to party for New Year's Eve with Embassy people etc! We only had jeans to wear (mine just about rotting away!) Said it didn't matter. Took us to Imperial - really posh - his relations ran it! No cheque service till Monday!

Dropped us at Mrs Calaco's to get ready. Nice American occupying 4th bed in the room - he felt lost, wondering what people were doing for New Year's Eve. Went to Palace Heights to see if Gary and Beryl were there [friends made in Kathmandu] but they didn't turn up - so met J.B. Singh who took us out in taxi to posh part of New Delhi - full of Embassy people. Took us to his uncle's house - uncle is a member of Mrs Gandhi's gov! and very high up in Sikh religion - pictures of him with parliament and a painting of great religious conversion with him on elephant! He's 86 - was out to dinner in poshest hotel in Delhi. Cousin came down - a real character - Indian playboy grown to fat; talked all the time about his trips to Europe, his girlfriends, the jet set in Delhi - said would take us to loads of hotels and parties and have better time than at home!

He waited for his father to bring car back while JB took us to a really posh hotel - Akbar Hotel - very modern and plush guards on the door dressed in red uniforms and medal ribbons. Everyone in gorgeous saris and smart suits. Sat in one of bars and drank cinzano red! Nearly £1 for each drink - super! Waiter dropped tray load of glasses. Cousin (called Pixie) finally came and took us in his vast smooth car - which he drove as badly as the taxi drivers - to another party. So spent 12.0 and beginning of 1977 in the back of this huge Buick!"

HOGMANAY IN DELHI - a ticket hunt that leads to mice at Ma Calaco's, 1976

2010-01-30T00:46:00.000-08:00

[It's Hogmanay but Delhi is a long way from the Isle of Skye. Nikki and I are on a search for tickets home, existing on coffee and toast and running out of money. It's going to be a long last day of 1976 ...]

Nikki on the bus

FRIDAY 31ST DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Both woke early and checked out. Wandered around Place, nowhere open. Found hotel so had toast and coffee there. Then got rickshaw to Post Restante (one of million that we got that day!)

At P.R. bombshell hit us - no chit saying we had registered mail. (Got letters for Di and Rob). I asked if could check reg mail - sent to a different building. Asked again at big school where to go - nice priestly looking men; boys playing cricket. Found place eventually. Asked to see reg. mail - bloke wouldn't listen because we had no chit from the post office. Both broke down and cried! So he relented and took us up to nice middle-aged man in charge of the mail. Let us look through the book. Nothing come the whole of December for either of us (although Asian Greyhound had telexed Kathmandu that Nikki's had arrived and mine on its way 2 weeks ago).

Told to come back at 4. Decided to check p. restante under name Asian Greyhound - wouldn't let us when got there. Decided to go to British Airways and see if booked with them. Nice [Sikh] man very helpful, sent telex to A.G. asking for details of tickets - we don't even know the company flying with, let alone the date! Told to come back later.

Went to Ariana [Afghan Airways] - but they'd moved. So trailed over to new building - asked if booked with them - had no record of it. Went to Iraqui Airways - sent upstairs (like following clues to a riddle!) Nice man but no record of our tickets, said would telex on Monday if not arrived.

Exhausted, fell into restaurant and had coffee and omelette. Hardly spoke felt so miserable - both on verge of tears all day. Set off again - tried Indian Airways and Syria-Arab Airways but no luck - tickets don't seem to exist!

Decided to find accommodation. Shirley had given us address of Mrs Calaco's, Janpath Lane. Booked in - she turfed 2 weird blokes out [of room] and gave us their beds. Filthy bare room, dark, with 4 beds in and nothing else. Beds made of huge frames and canvas strapping for mattress. Given 2 grotty sleeping bags because had nothing. Both lay down - Nikki had sore throat and headache.

Watched mouse running over opposite bed and onto window ledge by bloke's food etc. Both burst into tears! Never known such despair - and on Hogmanay too! Funny Dutchman came in and brewed up some tea - said there were loads of mice and proudly showed us a trap he had made!"

DELHI RE-VISITED - without the security blanket of the Swaggie bus - or even a sleeping bag!

2010-01-29T00:55:00.000-08:00

[The day which started with sunrise in Kathmandu and a jolly rickshaw ride around Patna, took a decided turn for the worse when we reached Delhi that evening. Leaving luggage at the airport, believing we would be in the city for just a night, we searched for somewhere to stay ...]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Three

"At [Delhi] airport we rush for cases, managed to leave them at left luggage, then got bus into city. Driver suicidal - didn't slow down at roundabouts - drove on 2 wheels most of the way! Saw us, laughed and drove even worse.

Dropped at Connaught Place - Nikki had addrss of Palace Heights just off C.P. - up lift, found it was full! Directed us to Jivan Lodge down the street. Really tired and desperate for place (after 8pm). Up loads of stairs, men staring at us from dark corridors. Manager showed us to double room up more stairs. Filthy room, with one old thin blanket on the beds. About £2.50 for this hole but took it for the night.

Music blaring from next door; bloke kept peering through glass panel that stretched along the whole of one bedroom wall. We sat down feeling depressed - both agreed it seemed more like a brothel! Went out and sat in State Coffee House looking thoroughly cheesed off; tried to make coffee last, dreaded going back.

When got back, we locked ourselves in and went to sleep fully dressed because had no sleeping bags with us. Nick-named the place "the black hole of Delhi"!"

PATNA: RETURN TO INDIA - chilled beer and rickshaws but no Rolling Stones, 1976

2010-01-28T00:57:00.000-08:00

[After the emotional farewell to Nepal, Nikki and I flew to Patna en route to Delhi. A chilled beer, a rickshaw ride and pleasant people in Patna lulled us into a false sense of holiday. We laughed at a mad American searching for the Rolling Stones and a cautionary tale that Swaggies had been left stranded in Delhi without tickets home ...]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Soon left the hills and below was the Plain of India. Air hostess in sari said, 'Namaste' as we boarded. Given nice snack and free Carlsberg beer! (chilled!)
Landed at Patna. Met up with driver of Encounter Overland - cheerful hot-tempered Aussie.
Nice middle-aged Indian man - well travelled, amusing and very polite treated us to coffee then put us on a rickshaw and told the driver to give us a tour of Patna and drop us off for lunch then back for next flight.

Lovely day - felt on holiday as jogged through wide streets lined with trees and attractive bungalows. Strange to be in India with no Swaggy bus in sight! Familiar sights of men in loincloths; millions of bicycles and rickshaws pouring across traffic lights and mad drivers again.

Stopped and talked to funny American guy who'd missed the plane to Kathmandu because they had lost his luggage. He asked our driver if the Stones were playing tonight in Patna! He couldn't bear the idea of New Year in such a place!

Went to bank then dropped at incredibly posh hotel - had a coffee! Man was complaining behind me because he got cabbage and not carrots, just the limit because this morning he got orange instead of tomato juice! What a fuss!

Back to airport - plane to leave at 2.55 - didn't leave until 4.30! Talked with Encounter guy - he'd heard of Greyhound [Asian Greyhound] people having no tickets waiting at Delhi post restante! Airport stood us sweet tea and gritty butties!

Air India flew us out - Indian music, bigger plane, hostesses in saris. Gave revolting mango juice. Landed at Lucknow then off again to Delhi. Tiny snack and coffee."

LAST SUNRISE IN KATHMANDU - goodbye to Swaggies, KC, backstreets and friendly puppy, 1976

2010-01-26T01:00:00.000-08:00

KC, restaurant owner, Thamel, Kathmandu

[Last sunrise in Kathmandu - goodbye to last of the Swaggie friends and final breakfast at KC's before Nikki and I flew away from the snow-clad Himalayas. Chrispin waved us off - he was heading off to do more travelling around India, so I took his large suitcase home and leant him my backpack and sleeping bag not thinking I would have need of them again for a while ... bad call as it turned out!]

THURSDAY 30TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Up very early because Heidi leaving at 6. As she went I could lie and see the sunrise out of the door. Lovely winter morning - dark clouds with orange-pink light seeping into sky behind. Hils dark behind and trees in foreground full of the noise of birds. Streets quiet for once but dogs already beginning to stir in hotel courtyard (big black one and little black puppy that looks like a baby bear and plays with my tatty jeans!)

Waved off Heidi, Pam and Mark - fresh cool air of early morning. Met Chris and Nikki and went for breakfast at KC's - he was still asleep on the chairs! OK and KC helped get us breakfast - fried eggs, toast and lovely milky KC coffee. Back to hotel after KC wished us happy journey - amused when I said I'd see him in Scotland. He has a saying that: Chinese food is best food, Japanese women best women, Nepalese dope best dope and Scotch whisky best whisky!

Taxi waiting for us. Frances saw us off - Adrian still sick in bed. Went to airport via narrow lanes - last glimpse of narrow streets inhabited by cows and dogs. Our into fields then airport. Chris organised us into right queues etc trying to cheer Nikki up. Customs nosed around in cases - opened my souvenirs. Body search - girl helped herself to coconuts and Nikki's cigs! Walked out to small Nepalese plane - Chris waving us off from terrace. From plane, Nikki noticed that he lit up cigarette (she was always trying to control his consumption). Waved us off even when in the air.

Circled over Kathmandu - saw terraced brown fields and houses for last time growing more distant - picked out the Boudhnath Stupa. Great white range behind us, slightly clouded; then left Kathmandu Valley and on into smaller range of hills with roads winding through them."

LAST DAY IN KATHMANDU - goodbye bicycles, Freak Street, Yeti Travels, KC's! 1976

2010-01-23T02:49:00.000-08:00

[The Thamel quarter of Kathmandu had become home and I was already growing nostalgic at the thought of leaving the place. But the group were melting away and it was almost time for Nikki and I to make our way to Delhi to find the elusive return tickets. One more day of cycling the backstreets of the city, mooching around Freak Street, drinking endless milky coffees - and of course a visit to KC's.

WEDNESDAY 29TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Di up really early - bus at 6.15. Said a sleepy goodbye! Said a second sleepy goodbye to Shirley a little later.
Morning - breakfast with Heidi at Shangri la - talked of education and interpreters! Hired bicycles with Chris and Nikki and went to Yeti Travels - tickets to Delhi confirmed! Signed away most of travellers' cheques! Gave us sweet tea. Chris's money come through too, so he treated us to coffee at the Ra Ra Restaurant!

Back on bikes - really good fun. Lunch at Kathmandu Guest House with Heidi - had savoury pancake rolls. Later set off on bikes again down narrow lanes - hair-raising ride avoiding cows, people, vehicles, gutters, porters with swinging poles of earth, dogs and babies! No one gets out of the way - though we soon got the idea of ringing bells continuously! No wonder Nepalese are addicted to bells and horns!

Went to Aunt Jane's (parallel with Freak Street) for their lunch. Very small restaurant upstairs - very famous - perhaps first of the 'trendy' places to go. In Freak Street plagued as usual by boys with Tibetan books and people offering hash.

On way to Yeti Travels again, nearly got knocked over at roundabout - one of many near collisions! Great fun though.

Had coffee and apple crumble at KC's for last time - sob! sob! After dark spent last of rupies on little presents eg Nepalese hats - shops are lovely at this time because still bustling with sounds and life and welcoming lights. Know this narrow crossroads so well - on first night the bus got stuck there - quite nostalgic about leaving."

LIKE DURHAM MINERS' GALA - King's Birthday: parades, bands and cocky lads! Kathmandu 1976

2010-01-22T00:52:00.000-08:00

[This amazing day which started with a burning sunrise in the Himalayan foothills and a packed trolley ride with dead chickens and excited kids on their way to the King's Birthday celebrations, continued in Kathmandu. Its happy crowds, banners, noisy bands and side stalls reminded me of the annual Durham Miners' Gala - and it all took my mind off those blistered feet. What better way to finish the national holiday than with a meal at KC's?!

Heidi, Sally, KC and Di at KC's on King's birthday (King and Queen in background!)

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Three

"We finally disgorged back in Kathmandu!
Town by post office was almost deserted; no rickshaws to be seen. So walked into centre - great crowds on public park and lining the streets - people selling chunks of fruit on pavements. Processions of people, especially kids parading round field and then up New Street to Durbar Square. We we couldn't get through until finished so wandered up New Street.

Like Miners' Gala Day [in Durham] - people pouring in and the sound of bands. These bands consisted of small drums, cymbals, pipes and flutes and strange singing. Lots of schools in uniform marched with banners - a few managed to swing arms in time, while some cocky lads followed and mimicked. Other groups of Nepalese carried biers with greenery all over - couldn't see what sat underneath.

We rested blistered feet (me, Nikki and Chris) in Paras Hotel, by Nepal Bank, and had omelettes for lunch. When emerged again, streets breaking up - went back via back streets to hotel. Heidi and Di packing for Pokhara. Finished rum.

After shower, went to KC's for their final meal. Had lovely tomato soup and hamburger steak with salad and roti (ie potato). Followed by night life! (rum and lemon) KC in good form - bought me night life; offered me and Nikki job driving a hamburger stall! Full of new ideas and plans for saunas, bakery etc. Fred and Jan came in - Fred still not well enough for him to go trekking."

KING OF NEPAL'S BIRTHDAY - truck loads of screaming kids: 'Hello, bye-bye, Kathmandu!' 1976

2010-01-21T00:41:00.000-08:00

[This turned out to be a mega day - it started with a spectacular sunrise over the Himalayas and then dropping down into the Kathmandu Valley we found ourselves swept along in celebrations for the King's Birthday. My battered overlander's shoes were not keeping pace - I was picking up blisters as well as cheerful children along the way.]

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely walk down - soon became warmer. Little lad pointed out jungle to left. Another kid joined us waving a palm type leaf, dressed only in grubby shirt - asked my friend if this was a friend of his and he said no firmly! His school began at 11 but he'd set off down because his school was going into Kathmandu for the King's Birthday.

At village we saw 2 truck loads of screaming kids set off shouting, "Hello, bye-bye, Kathmandu! Kathmandu!" Truck over-brimming with them!

Walked to Bhaktapur because minibus not there - it passed us just as we entered town! My feet and Nikki's were blistered from loose shoes coming down hill, so hobbled painfully to nearest cay shop! (They make it with boiled milk and water in the same pan like Indians).

Through Bhaktapur - passed dead animals, potter spinning big stone wheel with a long stick. Bought little cake things.

Caught trolley bus - whole of Nepal seemed to dash for door as soon as opened - nearly trampled in the rush! Then there was loads of time before it left and everyone had a place so it was futile to begin with! Don't think there's a word 'queue' in Nepalese! Imagine the indignant looks and tutting that would receive such enthusiasm in 'respectable' Britain!

As bus progressed more and more piled on until it was almost impossible to ever get off! Chris was complaining about rubbing shoulders with a frenchman and bottoms with a Nepalese! He and Mark were swinging from the bars. Pam was worried about the kid next to her with a plaster on his face in case he had chicken pox and also about the dead chicken in his mother's string bag!

(A mother was feeding her baby on the bus even after the baby had fallen asleep!)"

SUNRISE OVER EVEREST - burning snow and sugar in the porridge, 1976

2010-01-20T02:25:00.000-08:00

[Not even the discomfort of a cold night or sugar in the porridge could detract from the awe-inspiring sight of the sun rising over Everest and the Himalayas - and the sound of school girls singing through the dark. Not surprisingly, this magical memory has stayed with me and influenced a scene in my novel OVERLANDERS.]

TUESDAY 28TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

"Banging on door at 6. No one felt like waking - pretty cold because only a few blankets and no bag.

Staggered out and up very steep hill again (Nagarkot about 6,000ft) View was breathtaking - mist rising out of valley - mysterious blue ridges, then dark blue ranges of the Himalayas, nearer ones snow-capped, waiting for sun to rise - great feeling of expectancy. Gradually deep pink light began to seep into valley and catch the peaks - snow really burning in dawn light. Then sun rose to the left of them all - brilliant orange light. Saw Everest's blue peak clearly - little orange cloud above it.
Group of girls chanting down the road - lovely sound.

Down hill again for breakfast. They put sugar in the porridge and the coffee! Not my lucky day!

Set off 8.30 down to Karapati again - met a little guide (in his pyjamas!) - thought Pam woul know an Aussie girl that he had the passport photo of, because she came from Oz! He pattered along beside me - english quite good, 11 years old. I gave him my passport photo (spare copy) and wrote my address for him - he looked at picture and said "very good" with a grin!"

Girls singing in the sunrise, Nagarkot, 1976

EVEREST COTTAGE - Tibetan bread, roaring fire and Eagles (Californian variety!) NAGARKOT 1976

2010-01-19T09:51:00.000-08:00

[The strenuous puffing and panting of unfit overlanders that morning was rewarded with specacular views of the Himalayan range and Everest hidden in cloud that my Kodak Instamatic did not do justice to! Magic surreal moment was after dark sitting by cosy fire in candlelight, eating simple meal to the strains of The Eagles, at the Everest Cottage ...]

MONDAY 27TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part Two

"Lovely view over valley and jungle to the right. Cay stop - sat on terrace step in sun. Reached top at about 4. Two vans up there at viewpoint - fantastic panorama of Himalayas - from Annapurna to beyond Everest (semi-circle).

Went for coffee at nearby coffee house - all really thirsty. Then rushed out to see sunset over mountains -lovely pink light and gorgeous blazing orange behind clouds over Kathmandu Valley with dark trees silhouetted on hill in front.

Then rushed around trying to find somewhere to sleep - eventually went down very steep hill to "Everest Cottage" - opened it up for us because no one else there. Lit a big fire in large room with hight matted ceiling. Candlelight in all rooms - sat round fire relaxing.

Then had Nepalese meal - plain but good fare - rice, little omelette, veg curry and dhal soup. Finished with Tibetan bread (like stodgy pancake). Sat round fire drinking Chris's Country Liquor. They put on tape - Eagles.

In room with Chris and Nikki (Mark and Pam other side of partition) - wall to wall bed and nothing else! Mouse running above our heads in the roof!"

TREKKING OVERLANDER-STYLE - jeans, wedges and an orange! 1976

2010-01-19T07:00:00.000-08:00

[After three months of sitting on a bus and doing nothing more strenuous than sightseeing and drinking cay, a trek into the foothills of the Himalayas - however short - was a test for the average Overlander. Standard trekking equipment - jeans (newly washed for the first time since Kabul), Afghan jacket and scuffed wedged shoes!]

MONDAY 27TH DECEMBER, 1976 - Part One

Nagarkot, foothills of Himalayas, 1976

"Waved them [Rob, Maree and Diane] off from hotel - going to Bangkok.
Left after eleven with Chris and Nikki - meeting Mark and Pam at trolley bus. After and few 100 yds the ropes of trolley came off the rails!
At Bhaktapur walked across vale - stopped for cay after 2 mins! Asked way to Katipur, but man said didn't have any of it! Over bridge saw women washing below - and through filthy streets of Bhaktapur to Durbar Square. Had another cay stop! (lovely curd).

Then piled into minibus with milk churns crunched up against our knees; 2 lads kept swinging in and out of van door collecting fares and pushing in sacks and people on top of us! Really good fun!

Dropped at Karapati then started walking - little boy guide joined us plus various little fellas with baskets strapped to heads. Up rocky path - very steep straight away. Stopped on rocks for lunch (my breakfast) of cheese, bread, tomatoes, and an orange. Talking of cheese, Chris said look behind me and I nearly jumped 10ft to see 2 black goats peering over my shoulder!

Went on past lovely little hamlets - yellow and orange painte houses with thatched roofs, with hens and kids rushing around, little stores with nuts and grain etc., women pounding grain and sieving it; cows trying to block us off! We were wheezing and panting all over the place! I managed to keep up near front!"

BOXING DAY IN KATHMANDU - bicyles, buffalo steak and the blues! 1976

2010-01-18T10:16:00.000-08:00

[Word came through that return tickets for Nikki and I were waiting at Post Restante in Delhi - this was the pre-electronic quaint old days of handwritten letters and cryptic telegrams where mail was sent to post offices in large cities to await collection. So the next step in finding the elusive tickets was to arrange to back-track to Delhi ...]

SUNDAY 26TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Slept in! Got up and went with Nikki to book tickets for Delhi. Yeti Travels confirmed flight to Patna but not Delhi - our usual luck. Back to hotel - Di still sleeping; Heidi got touch of flu but wandering up and down corridor! Went and joined Sally and Adrian in Shangri la for pancake.

Then went into Yeti Travels again to check mail - got letter that should have received on 23rd - from family in Malvern - various rude messages tacked on end of Mum's letter! [from brother Torquil] Met Rob there - he gave me lift back to hotel on back of bicycle - hair-raising experience! Dodging cows, rickshaws, roundabouts - nearly thrown into gutter but didn't come off once!

Met Sally on roof (superb view over Kathmandu and surrounding hills, could see Swayambuth easily). Went and gave jackets to little man to put dragon on.

Had drinks in Anders's room with Heidi, Bill, Shirley, an American couple en passant (French interjection!) Then Di, me and Sally went and ate at Shangri la - buff steak and chips, then coffee at KC's - met Hans and Chris. Then went for drinks in Gary and Beryl's room (Canadian couple that met us all over Xmas and live near Bill and Shirl in Vancouver).

Great evening - packed at first - Chris and Nikki (went early because Chris got dizzy spell), Rob, Maree, Diane, Mark and Pam, Hans, Chris, Di, Sally, me, Anders, Heidi (left then came back!). Had great chat with Little Chris about Skye - he climbs in Cullins - very keen - made me feel close to home. Listened to tapes, then Gary and Rob started playing guitar - Rob played blues and Gary played bongo drum; then Gary played folk songs and lovely Philipino song. Shirley came in because couldn't sleep. Then got complaint about foot stomping from bloke below! Beryl broke party up at 2.30 because of noise. Said goodbye to Di, Rob and Maree."

CHRISTMAS IN KATHMANDU - porridge, parties, pipes! 1976

2010-01-14T03:25:00.000-08:00

[Christmas in Kathmandu: at the start of the trip I hadn't expected to still be there for the 25th - a return plane ticket should have been waiting from Asian Greyhound. But it was a very happy day with all the right ingredients: good food, drink and lots of friends with which to share it - and a dusk walk with a magical moment when musicians came out of the dark like a group of Biblical shepherds playing their pipes.]

SATURDAY 25TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Christmas!
When woke, Di gave me and Heidi a little Xmas stocking filled with nuts, sweets, bics and tangerines! Got up leisurely and had breakfast with Sally and Anders, Heidi and Di at about 11.30! Sally and Fran gave me a little bead choker and card. Had porridge at KC's - all a bit chaotic from the night before - some suffering!

Nipped down to corner shop and bought vodka, spicy nuts and sweets for Di and Heidi and peanut butter for Sally and Fran. Back to hotel for cocktails in Chris and Nikki's room again! Went on till about 3.30! Great atmosphere - chatted with guy off Contikee - trip where bus rolled - didn't get on together etc - not like Swaggies!

Went for lunch with Di and Heidi - had gorgeous mushroom and chicken roll at Shangri la served by sweet grinning waiter! Went for evening stroll with Di round streets - lovely dusk with moon and evening star and mist settling on hills around. Passed a little band playing drums and pipes and bells - lovely rhythmic beating in the half dark. Streets busy still (passed shop stacked with coloured glass bangles). Di still not better.

Met Sally and Heidi in KC's cake shop and Heidi treated us to piece of pie and coffee.

Had a drinks party in our room with selection of spirits and nuts - Bill, Shirley, Sally, Fran, Adrian, Anders all came. They all went off to KC's and I went down to 'Cafe de Star' where Rob and Maree prepared a fabulous dinner - we stood around having "Crispin's aperitif" ie country liquor, water and orange, until meal served. All sat in far room at long table - Rob, Maree, Geoff, Jan (Fred ill) me, Diane, Mike, Hans, Ian, Chris, Nikki, Mark and Pam. Really super evening - all stuffed ourselves with turkey, chicken, carrots in butter, peas, cauliflower, stuffing and roast pots, follwed by Xmas pud and white sauce, presented with flaming Cleopatra whisky on top!

By the time it came to KC's cake we were all so painfully ill that we sat there just looking at it! No one moved for hours because couldn't face going up steps - Geoff and Jan had to stagger back with Fred's grub. All gave Geoff his Xmas pressy - woolly waistcoat, pen, biro. Had my bottle of Muscadet wine from Channel crossing! (And hotel made us a punch). Everyone in good mood, cracking jokes etc.

Mike said farewell because off early - so I said, "Ceylon Mike!" Eventually all lights in other part went off and waiters went to sleep on floor - so we finally broke up and crept upstairs to bed with pieces of cake!"

XMAS EVE IN KATHMANDU - PARTY TIME! 1976

2010-01-13T00:14:00.000-08:00

FRIDAY 24TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Xmas Eve! Di not well. Went into town early and sent telegram home, "Happy Christmas - love you all. Alcoholica"!
Met up with Mark and Pam - wandered back - Mark bargained for our postcards - any excuse for an argument! Walked through backstreets - cows, dark shops, rickshaws, kids with pockmarks - Pam worried in case gets chickenpox. Met Rob and Maree eating rock hard gooey things - Mark said looked like cow pats!

Went in later to collect suits - Di went back because sick. Yeti Travels, then expensive tea at Ra Ra Restaurant - not good.

Had bread and cheese and curd in room - Di in bed; Heidi egg nogging! Then went to rum punch party in Chris and Nikki's room. Really good fun - lots of people there, great drink. Rude comments about my green suit - "come in your pyjamas" etc. Sang Christmas carols then decided to sing outside KC's - so we all grouped at the door and sang away - difficulty in remembering words, but appreciated by diners at KC's Xmas Eve party. Sally knocked down some of new kitchen wall! KC very tolerant with us. Some of us sneaked in and listened to guitarists and drank Night Lifes, while others went on to sing elsewhere.

Tried to organise going to midnight mass but didn't know where place was - Mike had already set off walking, had said I'd go too. Joined others in cake shop - KC lit cake with brandy on - all had some - kept pouring rum into my coffee - no one paid for anything! All very merry. Went round kissing everyone merry Xmas. Back to restaurant - funny little urchins grabbing onto us out of the dark. Locked us into restaurant, so Nikki rushed back for Chris and others! Pushed back tables and had a disco - really great bop. Finished about 3 o'clock! Got Xmas kiss from KC!"

SUNBATHING AND SHOPPING IN FREAK STREET - life of the Overlander in Kathmandu, 1976

2010-01-12T00:14:00.000-08:00

[Sunbathing, shopping, eating out ... No, this is not the Riviera; it's the life of the Overlander in Kathmandu!]
THURSDAY 23RD DECEMBER,1976

"Sunbathed on terrace - lovely hot sun but awful flies - felt virtuous because wrote letter and cards! Lay in sun for awhile - really hot - Little Chris had tent out (on concrete) - people made cracks about hard ground for pegs etc).

Went out later with Sally and Di to get embroidery put on skirt and jeans by this little man in tiny workshop in one of lanes between here and Durbar Square. Then hunted round Freak Street for Nepali suits (baggy trousers and wrapover tops) and had some made up at little tailor's.

Went to Utze's again for another good meal - little boy with black fez works really hard there."

SAD FAREWELLS EASED BY COFFEE & CAKE AT KC's, Kathmandu 1976

2010-01-11T00:07:00.000-08:00

[More Swaggie friends departing and feeling jaded after the previous heady day - there's only one remedy - back to KC's for coffee and cake!]

Swaggies eating at KC's, Thamel, Kathmandu, 1976

WEDNESDAY 22ND DECEMBER, 1976

"Went to airport to see Pam and Sue off. Great scenes of tears as said goodbye - especially when Pam said bye to Rob, Mike, Anders ...! Waved them away from terrace.

Washed jeans! Moved up to Di and Heidi's room. Tried to write letter but gave up. Tried to find diary but gave up! So went and had cake and coffee at KC's!

Went to Utze's quite late that evening with Di and Sally - had 4 dishes between us - lovely food - sweet and sour chop suey, rice, chicken etc. Then had banana split - enjoyed every calorie!"

SWAYAMBHU - more photos, Kathmandu, December 1976

2010-01-10T08:47:00.000-08:00

The walk out to Swayambhunath from Kathmandu had me reaching for my Kodak instamatic. Here are some further photos of the rural route and the sights around the monkey temple of Swayambhu that compliment the previous post for Tuesday 21st December 1976.

SWAYAMBHU MONKEY TEMPLE - the spiritual and then the high spirits of partying Swaggies, Kathmandu 1976

2010-01-09T04:53:00.000-08:00

[The spirit was with me in more than one sense on this day: fantastic climb to the Buddhist temples at Swayambhunath, mixing with the monks, worshippers and monkeys - then a high-spirited evening of Nepali rum and country liquor to mark the final evening of Aussie friends Pam (my room-mate) and Sue, who were heading back home. As ever, we ended up eating at KC's]

Buddha and me at Swayambhu

TUESDAY 21ST DECEMBER, 1976

"Walked to Swayambhu with Chris and Nikki and Fran. Coldish morning - set off through back streets the wrong way, ended up crossing mud banks and planks over river. Lots of little people rushing around with huge baskets of earth balanced on poles across their shoulders. Saw moving haystacks with legs rushing along underneath! - must be very strong.

Got lost among intensely cultivated fields - lovely countryside - saw boys making mud bricks; kids playing, cowpat-type things drying on walls of houses. Walked up terracing on narrow ridges between fields and across pole over stream! Everyone very amused at little file walking about. At least we weren't plagued by rickshaw drivers. "Hello, rickshaw ...!"

Decided to rest before climbed steps up to Monkey Temple - very steep! Exhausted at top - loads of monkeys running about and whizzing down railings. Top was crowded with little shrines - pretty filthy everywhere; spattered with white and red paint. Saw ceremony outside shrine - people squatting, old man reading from manuscript while others poured water over flowers.

Various monks wandering round the big stupa (biggest in world) spinning prayer wheels, dressed in maroon robes, cropped hair. Nothing doing in temple (no horns etc) Found pie shop! Very reasonable prices.

Wandered back across bridge and back through main way - passed loads of washing. Got bacck and flopped on bed - went to sleep! (Shows really unfit).

Woke when Fran came in. Sue came and said Geoff taking her out to eat instead of group farewell meal - Pam fuming - Geoff make it worse by pretending he'd done nothing wrong. Pam calmed down. Hans and Little Chris came in - somehow started a booze-up! Passing round gin, rum, whisky and country liquor! By 7.30 we were all well away - "Pissed out o' me skull" as Little Chris put it! Don't know how we made it over to KC's! Had great meal there - tomato soup and steak. Managed to eat it with bit of difficulty. Sat next to Mike who told me how he never drank anymore!

Back to room (after a "Night Life" - rum and lemon) - had great party - room packed with people. Chris had crashed next door - locked self in, so when Hans tried to get in, we were banging and shouting and chucking things through the window - finally woke him, though he doesn't remember unlocking the door!"

Little Chris, Hans and Pam at Hotel Star party

KATHMANDU IN DECEMBER 1976 - spring rolls, Freak Street and Americans singing the Messiah!

2010-01-08T05:19:00.000-08:00

[It's Kathmandu - spring rolls, Freak Street, braid belts, rickshaws and ....the Messiah in tuxedos?!]

MONDAY 20TH DECEMBER, 1976

"Got up and went in by rickshaw to New Road - Nepal Bank. Driver didn't know where I meant and stopped several times - no one seemed to know where centre of town was! 9.30 got there to find not open!

Went for rip off coffee and toast in Crystal Hotel - dim lights, soft Radio 2 type music, was only one there - lots of waiters in white, all very polite. Finally collected money so can eat again - relief because funds low.

Back to hotel (bought braid belt). In again with Nikki to see if booked on Air India, can't find out. Lunch in Utze with Bread and Jam (Fred and Jan) - spring roll.

People lazing on terrace at hotel. Shared cake with Heidi at KC's. I went into town on own again - a few back streets, then down New Road and Durbar Square (into Freak Street). Bought some cheap jewellery but on whole shops disappointing.

Early supper with Heidi, Bill and Shirley at Shangri la (lovely chicken and cashewnut) then piled into taxi and tried to get to Messiah concert at Lincoln School. First taxi had no clue, so piled into second. Went all over far side of Kathmandu looking for the place. Eventually got there - Chris, Nikki and Anders already there. Amazing to be among loads of diplomatic Brits and Yanks sitting in a school hall with choir in suits and long dresses.

Great evening, really amusing - electricity failed in middle of overture and organ wound down (we couldn't help laughing). All men singers were painfully bad, but choir sang with gusto and the Yanks all gave them a standing ovation!

Piled into mini bus going back - absolutely chock-a-block - knees crunched up together! Chris almost disappearing out of door. (Di trying to engineer something between Heidi and Anders!)"